Hello domino14
Your experiencing symptoms of clutch malfunction with the FAV6800AW. Do you want to dive in and try to fix? Here is what is involved to pull the clutch out of your machine. Also read the last couple of post in this forum. If you call a repair service in your are looking at $300 +. If you can DIY the repair cost could be from $10 dollars if you just need a roller clutch clean up and re-lube to $50 -140 for a replacement clutch. I’m cheap and would go for the $50 Clutch.
First check is to lift lid and see if you can rotate the empty wash basket CCW with one finger. That will let us know if you are experiencing some drag with the roller clutches in the clutch assembly. Here is a step by step to remove the clutch. It is a tight work area but can be done with basic hand tools and basic mechanical skill sets.
What is the serial number of your machine? Just need the first two digits i.e. 10, 12, 14, 16. This info is located on the top right back side of the console.
Next comment will be the clutch removal process, this board has message limits.
Disconnect 120VAC power cord. Read and follow all safety warnings in the Service Manual
The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.
Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.
Remove the front panel see page 41.
Tools required;
3/8 inch socket and socket wrench to remove clutch pulley bolt. Page 47 of the SM
1/2 inch socket or wrench to loosen Drive Motor tension bolt.
5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel see page 41 of the Service Manual
1. Lean the washer back and blocked up in that position against a wall for a better reach angle. Rotate 3/8” clutch Pulley Bolt CW to remove clutch bolt.
2. Follow SM page 46 & 47 to remove clutch pulley.
3. Remove 4 screws holding plastic cover on clutch, inspect clutch spring to make sure it is not broken. If either clutch spring retaining end is broken off then the clutch must be replaced. Inspect Roller Clutch bearings and clean up with WD-40 and re-lube with bearing grease. Most machine series use an Upper Roller Clutch bearing and always a lower clutch pulley Roller Clutch bearing. My series 16 machine doesn’t use the Upper Roller Clutch one way bearing. These bearings are one way rotation bearings in the Clockwise direction. Make sure the Spinner Shaft Coupler will rotate freely in the CW direction in both Roller Clutch bearings. If the Roller Clutch bearings or Spinner Shaft Coupler will not clean up with WD-40 I recommend a clutch replacement.
4. Replace white bearing plate into clutch pulley hub, insure key slot slips into clutch Spring pin in the clutch hub.
5. Replace Clutch plastic cover with 4 screws.
6. Reinstalling the Clutch Pulley assembly is the most difficult part of the process. With a tight work area try a test fitment of seating (if used) the Upper Roller Clutch bearing with the notches into the bottom of the wash tub. Then insert the Spinner Shaft Coupler into that bearing rotating CW to reseat the coupler notches to the spinner shaft. Then the clutch pulley to the squared end agitator shaft. Rock back and forth the clutch pulley assembly with upward lifting pressure to reseat the clutch assembly. When the clutch assembly is properly seated you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).
7. Do a quick wash and make sure clutch runs true with no wobble or clicking sound. If the clutch has not been seated properly it will spin off. If this happens go to page 16 of the SM Board Output Test and turn on Drain Pump in Service Mode to pump out excess water.
8. Repeat steps 6&7 if the clutch has excessive noise or spins off.
Some Pics for refferebce;
My original clutch is on the left side clutch on right is a $50 replacement I wanted to try and it works fine in my series 16 nachine. My series 16 machine does not use the upper roller clutch bearing assembly.
Clutch opened up
Some folks have found the spinner shaft coupler rusted solid to the upper roller clutch bearing. 
Sorry my original clutch is on the right side of the side by side pic's.
$50 dollar clutch ;
Clothes Washer Clutch - 25001169
AZ has raised their price for this clutch; Clothes Washer Clutch - 25001169
Bummer but they are still have a good price.
appliancezone.com keeps changing the link go to there web site and enter this part number 25001169 This clutch will work fo all FAV6800AW and FAV9800AW machine series. Why spend $140+.
I can’t post pic’s anymore on this forum, I have them looking into it. See this post this date stamp 12-28-2009, 09:25 PM. I gave that forum member a bit more insight of how to properly diagnosis the chronic slipping One-Way Roller Clutches of the FAV6800A/FAV9800A. I recommend everyone that does Clutch Maintenance or Replacement do this. It may help demystify the failure scenario.
Have a great Maytag day….:)…..Rich new nickname FAV6800AWDIY
Update….
If you replace your Clutch Pulley assembly and your machine series did not use the upper One-Way Roller clutch bearing ring then do not install. If you do it will cause issues. All new Clutch Pulley assemblies come with the upper One-Way Roller clutch bearing ring. I believe only the Series 10&11 use this upper One-Way Roller clutch bearing ring….Rich
Hey I can post Pics again. J
Let’s demystify dC and uC error codes plaguing the FAV6800A and the LCD Flavor FAV9800A
One last step before you clean up those pesky Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing.
Holding what I call the Spinner Shaft coupler first picture. Insert that coupler into the Clutch One-Way Roller bearing plate.
Now while holding the Spinner Shaft Coupler with one hand as I show in the second pic with your other hand rotate the white bearing plate in the CW direction around the Spinner Shaft Coupler.
The One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate should rotate freely in the CW direction this is the wash/agitate direction.
Now rotate the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate in the CCW direction it should lock up solid.
Most times the One-Way Roller clutches will slip did it slip for you? This will cause the agitator shaft to move slightly causing slight tumbler rotation while the wash basket begins to spin up unbalancing the wash load causing big time wash tub swings and those pesky unbalance error codes.
The Control Board sees the TDS analog voltage swings out of design limit and shuts down the spin cycle. If the TDS was not working as designed the machine would walk across the room and unplug itself or self-destruct.
The Control Board programming will try several attempts to redistribute the wash load and when the magic number of wash load redistribution attempts has been reached the Control Board signals a dC or uC error code to the display. I believe the FAV9800A signals a text error to the display i.e. “unbalance condition?” or something like that.
Anyway I thought you might want a little more insight into just what is going on here. A very poor Clutch design by Maytag. Mine failed at the 3.5yr mark of service and I was not about to trash a $1K machine. Sorry to say I feel number of them do make it to the curb on bulk trash pickup day.
I call this the Spinner Shaft Coupler. Not sure what Maytag calls it.
This is the One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing.
While holding the Spinner Shaft Coupler with one hand rotate the white One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing plate in the CW Wash/Agitate direction with your other hand. It should rotate freely in the CW direction around Spinner Shaft Coupler.
Now rotate the white One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing plate in the CCW direction the Spin Cycle direction. It should lock up and not rotate CCW around the Spinner Shaft Coupler. If it does the tumblers will rotate slightly and cause the wash basket load to go off balance as the wash basket spins up.
If the TDS is working as designed the machine will fail in Spin Cycle with dC or uC error codes. If the One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing can be cleaned up and re-lubed you could be back in service with no cost.
Hello ittlelamb18,
The One-Way Roller clutches may look clean but they are dry/sticky and they won't lock up in the CCW/Spin direction. See my previous comment where I demystify what causes of dC/uC error codes.
Most times as you found out you need to clean up and re-lube those roller clutches. Let me know if you found any issues with my step by step process. I put a lot effort into this post to save many machines and owners like you and I big $$$.
I now post under FAV6800AW for the forum nick name. This machine has issues with the Left Hand Lid Lock i.e. OP,OD,FL error codes I have solutions for that where I take folks through cleaning up the corrosion issues.…..Rich
""I now post under FAV6800AW for the forum nick name.""
Sorry new nick name FAV6800AWDIY
cromack
Glad it worked out for you. Once you understand the issue it makes troubleshooting/repair of he issue correction a bit easier.
Right now I'm rebuilding the Spinner Assembly of a series 10 machine.
I'm replacing the 6002DU top side bearing and the lower cage needle bearing SCE-910 bearing. New Spinner Assembly = $300. Punch out & press in new bearings about $15.
Going the bearing replacement route a no brainer.....Rich
Beraing on lleft is 6002DU replace with 6002RS...... Bearing on the right is a caged needle bearing INA SCE-910 google and you will find. 
littlelamb18
The One-Way roller clutches bearing may look clean but are dry.
Once cleaned and re-lubed the One-Way Roller clutches bearing will lock up solid and stop tumbler movement on wash basket spin up which = no wash load unbalance and a :) owner and :) machine and you extend the service life of your $1k machine......Rich
This statement is in error this it check for Outer Tub bearing rotational resistance/drag brought on by a slight Tub Seal leak......Rich
""First check is to lift lid and see if you can rotate the empty wash basket CCW with one finger. That will let us know if you are experiencing some drag with the roller clutches in the clutch assembly.""
""First check is to lift lid and see if you can rotate the empty wash basket CCW with one finger. That will let us know if you are experiencing some drag with the roller clutches in the clutch assembly.""
homeappmart
I just checked a Series 10 and a Series 16 FAV6800A machines and on both machines I have to rotate the Socket wrench toward the front of the machine (toward me) the CW rotational direction of the socket wrench to remove the clutch pulley bolt. I believe I’m calling that out correctly. When you removed the clutch pulley bolt on your FAV6800A or FAV9800A you had to rotate your wrench toward the back of the machine to loosen the 3/8” clutch pulley bolt? Let me know………….Rich
I just checked a Series 10 and a Series 16 FAV6800A machines and on both machines I have to rotate the Socket wrench toward the front of the machine (toward me) the CW rotational direction of the socket wrench to remove the clutch pulley bolt. I believe I’m calling that out correctly. When you removed the clutch pulley bolt on your FAV6800A or FAV9800A you had to rotate your wrench toward the back of the machine to loosen the 3/8” clutch pulley bolt? Let me know………….Rich
homeappmart
Let me clarify. I start the socket wrench at the 3 o’clock position right hand side the machine/clutch pulley and pull toward the front of the machine to loosen the clutch pulley?
Let me clarify. I start the socket wrench at the 3 o’clock position right hand side the machine/clutch pulley and pull toward the front of the machine to loosen the clutch pulley?
homeappmart
I haven’t heard back from you.
I assume folks working on the machine do not remove the Outer Tub to remove the Clutch Pulley and flip the Outer Tub upside down to remove the 3/8” Clutch Pulley Bolt. Working from the front of the machine or with the machine tilted back or laying on it’s back you turn the Clutch Pulley Bolt CW to remove.
If you remove the Outer Tub from the machine and flip the Outer Tub upside down you would turn the 3/8” Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to remove either way standard thread. Sorry for any confusion I was trying to simplify Clutch Pulley removal. So please everyone the Clutch Pulley 3/8” bolt is standard thread.
Did you sheer the 3/8” clutch pulley bolt off by hand? You did see from the Service Manual that the factory spec is 96” pounds = 8 foot pounds of torque? I hope you did not use an impact tool to remove.
With 3986 views to date you are the second person to point this out so it must cause some confusion so it's time to repost an updated the process........Rich
I haven’t heard back from you.
I assume folks working on the machine do not remove the Outer Tub to remove the Clutch Pulley and flip the Outer Tub upside down to remove the 3/8” Clutch Pulley Bolt. Working from the front of the machine or with the machine tilted back or laying on it’s back you turn the Clutch Pulley Bolt CW to remove.
If you remove the Outer Tub from the machine and flip the Outer Tub upside down you would turn the 3/8” Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to remove either way standard thread. Sorry for any confusion I was trying to simplify Clutch Pulley removal. So please everyone the Clutch Pulley 3/8” bolt is standard thread.
Did you sheer the 3/8” clutch pulley bolt off by hand? You did see from the Service Manual that the factory spec is 96” pounds = 8 foot pounds of torque? I hope you did not use an impact tool to remove.
With 3986 views to date you are the second person to point this out so it must cause some confusion so it's time to repost an updated the process........Rich
crice561.
How ya doing? I never received an e-mail notice of a post in this solution. If the wash basket will not rotate CCW by hand you need to remove the Clutch Pulley and then see if the wash basket will rotate CCW by hand. If it won't then the Outer Tub bearings are seized or have increased rotational resistance brought on by a Tub Seal leak.
I would post a new request for help this post is getting out of control and you posted your comments here as a solution not a fix. This board is not a true DIY board It’s geared for AT’s to post “Call in a Service Repair Tech” and spend $$$.
Let me know if you want to DIY we need to look at down time and you tolerance and your DIY skill sets dosen’t take much. I’m just a owner who wanted to extend the service life of my $1k machine….. making lemon aid out of lemons…..and using lot’s of sugar…….Rich
Thank you who ever you are!!! You saved me over $400. And I did the work all myself with no help from the husband ( which was hunting of course) .... So glad I found this site!! Thanks again.
You are very welcome. I don't come to this site very often any more. To many responses with no follow up. This is not a true DIY site. Google dh1200s and you will find me at one of four real diy forums where I try to help owners like you and me.
You can make the machine last a long time with ebay previous owners parts. Have a Good Thanksgiving. Rich
All that need help look for me on of four forums I hang out on and I will help. I will not respond on this forum anymore. Google dh1200s..... find me and join that forum and I will help you with your FAV6800A or FAV9800A issues. Happy Thanksgiving all...... Rich buit I go by d*ick. This BS forum stars out my name as PG rated. That's one of the many reasins why I'm out of here...........bye.
THANK YOU, DH1200S!!! Service guy came out, charged us $85 and said nothing was wrong with the unit. I searched online and came across your info. I called him back and he said, ok it is $170 for the part and $280 for the labor. I then promptly kicked him outta my house and dove into it myself!
I had the dc
zekedmangina
Good deal and very nice job. I hang out a few othe forums Google "Sticky: Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW" if you need any help down the road. You can make this wsher last for ever if you pick a few used parts on ebay. You may be ready for a Tub Seal down the road. I can help you with that, Google "FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement" and read thru the post. I won't post any more support at this site it's too painful.
I just ran a trouble free wash, thank you so much!
Good deal keep in mind what took out the Clutch Pulley is the Tub Seal is failing.
Go herehttp://forum.appliancepartspros.com/sear... to rebuild the Outer Tub to extend the service life of you FAV6800A or FAV9800A...........D*ick
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I researched this forum on the same issue with my neptune. I printed out solutions and page 47 of service manual for my husband. He removed the clutch, cleaned the bearing, reinstalled it and I am now running better than ever. He said the bearings were not really that dirty but I told him that the clutch may not have been seated properly or had become loose with use. Either way.... YOU PEOPLE ROCK!! Thanks
Had the same issue as described above. The washer would get to the spin cycle and stop - remaining time would not change, washer would **** about and eventually error out with 'dC'.
Removed the clutch, cleaned and re-lubed the one way bearings - problem solved.
My clutch was exactly as described above. I was able to spin the clutch CW and then switching to CCW would slip - which it should not do. Once cleaned, it did not slip anymore.
I had the same problem as listed above. I opened the lid and took the front panel off, and determined the clutch was only spinning the tumblers and not the spin cycle. A liberal dose of WD-40 while the clutch was in place, as well as operating the clutch by hand a couple dozen revolutions fixed the problem. For now, anyway.....
Great info. My machine had been doing this and I didnt know what was causing it. I figured it was because of the large bulky items so I would go in and manually move them around. Well today it started the cycle but never errored out with the time remaining at 34 minutes with water still in the clothes in the tub. I got the service manual and was able to run the test mode to find that the tub would not spin on the tumblers would agitate. I cannot move the tub manually either direction. Is this the clutch or the transmission?
Thanks you guys are awesome.
Great info. My machine had been doing this and I didnt know what was causing it. I figured it was because of the large bulky items so I would go in and manually move them around. Well today it started the cycle but never errored out with the time remaining at 34 minutes with water still in the clothes in the tub. I got the service manual and was able to run the test mode to find that the tub would not spin on the tumblers would agitate. I cannot move the tub manually either direction. Is this the clutch or the transmission?
Thanks you guys are awesome.
Did you ever get an answer to this? Mine won't rotate either direction as well. I've taken the transmition out completely and the tub still won't rotate.
I have this issue now and don't see a reply.
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Thanks ****! Your info was absolutely THE best info that I found on the web in regards to this issue. One correction though... The clutch/pulley bolt on the machine I was repairing had regular threads, NOT reverse threads as your post states. I was lucky to have a parts machine handy so that was the one I snapped the head of the bolt off on. YIKES! Thanks again for your input and please be aware of the problem ;)
I had the same problem ...i could hear the clicking when the machine was on the last spin cycle and the timer would always remain the same...so i took the clutch off and found it to have a broken spring tip where it attached to the black housing..i took needle nose pliers and bend a new loop and reinstalled the spring and white holding pin... put the washer back together and it works like it did when it was new.!!!
SOURCE: Model FAV6800AWW will not pump water out if
I’m an owner of the machine and know it quite well. If the One-Way roller clutches in the clutch pulley hub and the upper roller clutch assembly (if your series use’s it) can be cleaned up and re-lubed you can be back in service today. See this post Clutch Fix. My roller clutches failed at the 3.5yr mark Dec 08 causing dc/UC errors for any size load. I cleaned up and re-lubed and it worked fine. I replaced the clutch to try this clutch assembly back in Feb 08 25001169 to see if it would work it does and I recommend it to all owners for your and mine FAV6800AW and the LCD flavor of this machine the FAV9800AW. The clutch will work for all series of those machines. If you have basic mechanical skills and want to save money try to clean up the roller clutches and re-lube or replace for $60. If you call in a repair service I think you will be in the $300 range to repair. I have changed my nickname from dh1200s to FAV9800AWDIY I have many postings on the clutch subject at this site and Fixitnow.com where my Clutch Fix posting has been posted for these machines.
Good Luck and post back if you need help to DIY. …. Rich
Testimonial: "Very helpful. Thank you"
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