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These pumps can be wired to operate on either 115 or 230 volts. This shouldn't be an issue if it was previously working. If a new installation, make sure it isn't be connected for 230 volt operation and supplied with 115 volts - and of course; vice versa. Correct improper wiring before continuing. It is very possible that the motor has catastrophically failed due to incorrect voltage being supplied - hopefully this isn't the case.
Check and replace / reset any open fuses / tripped circuit breakers. and try again.
These pumps are often operated automatically via pressure switch. If the correct power is available to the pump it may be a problem with the pressure switch. There are many different types of pressure switches so it will be difficult to go beyond what I have told you already. You might want to see if you can locate a pressure adjustment screw and try varying it to see if it has been set too low to allow the pump to come on.
If no luck, tell me what the application for the pump is (point well pump, etc.) and what controls the pump (pressure switch, etc.). Provide the make and model of the control device and any visible settings. Do not remove any covers unless the power is first shut off.
First; most repair centers, mine included, are reluctant to instruct users on how to adjust compressor settings because of the dangers of setting levels to high and risking tank ruptures. 15 to 20 psi is considered explosive pressures so when you are dealing with 135 to 150 psi or higher, you have to be able to understand and respect the dangers. Second; if your compressor was working properly and now isn't and no one changed the setting of the pressure switch, it is more likely you need to replace the switch. If the spring or other mechanisms that controls the pressure the switch turns the motor off and on are damaged or broken they need to be replaced. Lastly; at your own risk, most pressure switches have directions inside the cover on how to adjust the cut-in and cut-out pressures. I have never seen one that requires special tools, usually a screw driver or nut drive will turn the adjustment screw. When adjusting the screw, turn the screw in half turn steps and cycle the motor at least twice between adjustments to check where the switch is cutting in and out. If your switch does in fact require a special tool you will have to see if it is something the repair center can sell you or take/ship the compressor to them for repair.
possibly an installation problem
most control units screw directly into the tank and the pressure is read directly to the diaphragm that controls the switching
check if the bleeder line is supposed to be attached to the control unit at all
unless you have a peculiar set up the compressor line goes to a nonreturn valve into the tank
there is a relief valve in the tank that blows off when dangerous pressures are reached ( around 120 psi)
there is a fitting where the control screws in and that reads tank pressure to control the on/off of the motor
First off, have you checked the adjustment of the pressure switch? If not, please go to the answer at http://www.fixya.com/support/t6375131-pressure_switch which provides details.
If that doesn't solve the problem because the pump won't provide the pressure, it depends on many factors. Assuming you have the correct pump for your well and system, the pressure/flowrate will also depend on the nozzle and venturi installed in the ejector set down the well. The ejector set comes with a table which offers the chance to increase flow or pressure. Assuming you have the correct jet/venturi for your pump and well depth, there is a simple routine which should be followed at startup of the pump the first time. Close the control valve which is a plastic threaded rod sticking out above the pump fittings coming from the well. Screw it right in. Ensure the pump is primed and that all plugs and faucets etc are closed. Then run the pump and while it is running, unscrew the control valve until the pressure gauge needle flutters. Screw the control valve closed until the fluttering stop and then at least a quarter turn. This provides your optimum pressure/flow for the depth of well, the nozzle and venturi installed. If this still doesn't provide the pressure you require, you may need to swap out the ejector set nozzle and venturi and then re-adjust.
That would depend on the type of pressure control switch it had on it, but all of the ones I've ever seen have it near the high pressure adjuster under the pressure switch cover- VERY HIGH VOLTAGES- RISK OF INJURY OR DEATH- UNDER PRESSURE SWITCH COVER WITH UNIT STILL CONNECTED TO POWER-
On the common switch used (A condore mdr 5) the differential is adjusted by DEPRESSING the nob & turning it.
On MDR 4 the adjuster is directly behind the high pressure adjuster. it is a flat bladed screw attached to a spring-screw in to increase cut in pressure.
You can also get pressure switches with a higher cut in pressure.
In Australia from a company called Ross Brown Sales in N.S.W
Generally, the pressure switch is not adjusted more than once or twice in the life of the compressor since the discharge pressure can be adjusted with pressure regulator. However the life of the compressor can be increased if lower pressure settings are maintained. Your pressure switch was set at the factory to a setting of about 120 - 150. If your cutout pressure is higher than 150 surely lower.
STEP 1: Turn Main Calibration Screw ( center screw with large spring) clockwise to increase pressure and turn counter-clockwise to decrease pressure.
STEP 2: Turn Differential Pressure Screw (small spring) clockwise to decrease cut-in pressure and turn counter-clockwise to increase cut-in pressure.
Differential Pressure is defined as the difference between cut-out and cut-in pressure. There should be about 7 to 12 psi difference between cut-out and cut-in. In our shop we rarely adjust more than a couple of turns because these switches are sensitive. Good Luck and please post again if you have other concerns about your compressor.
I had the same problem - good water inlet pressure, no output pressure, even though the lance and handle seemed to be clear and working find.
I found that the electrical switch wasn't being operated correctly by the spill valve and wasn't turning the motor on/off correctly.
Inside the plastic electrical box there is a small white device that presses against the micro switch assembly. Carefully adjust the allen screw perhaps 1/4 turn out or 1/4 turn in to obtain correct operation of the microswitch - you will hear the micro switch clicking in and out when re-assembled. I'm sure they must have a rig to check correct positioning of this screw in the factory!
Hope it helps - mine is working find now and saved me buying another!
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