Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check you door latch. When you open the door, there should be a black square hole on the frame and a black round hole above it with a pin sticking out. The pin is probably broken off and the door latch assembly needs to be replaced.
Posted on Jun 16, 2008
If your washing machine is still under the manufacturers warranty I don't believe Sears should be charging you anything for the call. But, if you wish to steer clear of that mess and repair the washer yourself, I can give you some advice. The problem is your door latch assembly. The "Fdl" displayed is a failed door latch error code. If it is occurring intermittently right now, you are simply going to buy some time before it eventually goes bad. When it does, the washer will not run. The part number is 1094190 and costs about $50. Just to be sure, post back with comments as to your model number (located along the door frame opening) and I will research to ensure the part number is correct. The latch assemblies have not changed over recent years and are interchangeable between model numbers. If you still wish to repair yourself, I can also give you step-by-step instructions. It is not a difficult repair, but it is a little tedious. Let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Nov 12, 2007
121 MINUTES USUALLY DRAIN CYCLE PLZ REMOVE 3 BOTTOM PANEL SCREWS 7 MM SCREWS, TO OPEN DOOR SLIDE RIGHT HAND TOWARDS DOOR LOCK ,THERE WILL BE A SMALL LEVER TOO PULL DOWN ,NOW ITS OPEN,,, SINCE U HAVE BOTTOM PANEL OFF PUMP IS RIGHT IN FRONT REMOVE PLASTIC HOUSING CLOCKWISE ,,,REMEMEBER HOLD 3 GALLONS OF WATER STILL ,HAVE BUCKET READY ,NOW CLEAN OUT PUMP AND DEBRIS ,, CLOSE IT UP SHOULD BE FINE NO MORE PROBLEMS ,,,,,
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
SOURCE: f21 code on kenmore he2 plus
Clean the filter in the pump behind the bottom panel,but remember it's full of water,If it's on a pedestal you can take the pump loose from the mounting pull it out a little and put a small pail or bucket under it before you open the trap.if it isn't on a pedestal it's a bit more challenging unless your in a basement with a floor drain. Open it very slowly and let the water drain a little at a time don't take it all the way out or you'll be in for a flood....good luck
Posted on Sep 03, 2009
Remember to unplug the machine and to exercise caution when working with water and electricity.
There is a diagnostic mode that is possible to run, it can't run though if you have a door lock error since it will sense that first and not complete the diagnostics.
To start the diagnostic mode:
From machine off.
Press the Drain/Spin button once.
Press the Spin Speed button until No Speed is selected.
Press any of the buttons under Options four times, the same button will need to be pressed each of the times. I use the Prewash button.
Unlocking and locking the door manually:
Front panel below door 3 screws on bottom of panel.
Reach up on right side of drum.
If you pull the tab, ths is manual unlock.
If you close the door, it remains unlocked.
This tab is black, you can't see this unless it is removed.
The black tab pulls on a white slider to unlock, pushing the tab to lock does nothing, you will reach up along the black tab and feel a corner of the white tab, this pushes up easily when the door is closed or if the latch is engaged.
If you engaged the latch and it is closed but not on the door, you will need to pull the black tab down. Then use something sturdy to loop around the white hook inside the latch. I used a black clip that is commonly used for clipping paper or sacks closed, the ones with the chrome loops, just angle it around and pull firmly, remember to have the black tab pulled, but not hard.
To describe the door lock mechanism:
Access to it:
From bottom for manual unlock and lock.
See above on access details.
From top for removal and installation.
The top panel comes off by three screws from the back.
It then slides back a few inches and then is able to be lift.
Removal and installation:
Three screws from door side holds it in place.
There are three plug-ins to this mechanism, the two white/clear plugs have one press tab each to unhook it and the longer black clip has two on the same side (facing the rear of the machine).
You will move the mechanism into the washer so the close button and the latch area are clear of the face of washer.
There is a cream plastic harness support on the inside that is held by two posts from the mechanism.
The mechanism slides up then out from the harness support.
You need to be careful not to damage the drum seal.
It is out.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Describing how it works:
You will notice that the mechanism is quite long.
The top part where the wire connector with two wires connected is solitary from the rest, it is just a button to sense whether the door is open or closed.
If the mechanism was opened you will see that the black button has a little tab that pushes a little red button on a rectangular unit when the door is open to keep the connection and is away from it when the door is closed to break the connection.
This should have continuity when the button is in the position of the door being open.
The next set of wires (three of them) power either of two coils of wire to move a metal rod that pulls the white slider up or down.
This slider can only move all the way up if the latch is in the closed position. This is because there is a long metal piece that is spring loaded to block it, when the latch is closed, it allows the white slider to move up. This metal piece is also a guide for the lock mechanism and brings the latch to a metal pin that catches the back end of the latch to hold it in position. The white slider blocks the metal tab when the slider is up, from allowing it full movement of moving the latch away from the pin. If the the black tab or white slider was moved down, it allows room for the metal piece to pivot, move the latch away from catching the pin and when the latch is pulled, to unlock.
The next set of wires (four of them) check whether the slider is up or down. How it works is that if the slider is up, then the top two terminals are bridged on the inside and the bottom two are bridged on the inside, giving you continuity when completely locked. When the slider is down and the latch is able to move freely, then none of the terminals are bridged and there will be no continuity.
I am unaware of how much resistance you need in the door sensor or the electromagnet to slide the rod.
I can say though that you need continuity where described.
If you get no continuity on the upper two or lower two of the four terminals grouped together when the latch is locked and slider up, then there is your problem.
If you have no continuity at the door sensor's two terminals when door is in open position, this may be your problem, but you will need to know the range of ohms and test for this to confirm.
For the electromagnet, you will need continuity from the middle terminal to the bottom terminal and from the middle terminal to the top terminal, if there is none, it will not be able to energize and move the slider. You will need to know the ohms to verify if this is faulty or not.
I am sorry that I do not know the ohms needed.
Remember to have the machine unplugged when opening or working on it.
This information is from my own attempt at figuring out what could be wrong and it may be different than your machine and may not be entirely accurate or complete since I don't have any manuals.
I have not been trained to work on these or any other machines, but I am highly mechanically inclined, but give no warranties to this information. If you decide to work on your machine based on this information, you do it knowing this and I can not be held responsible for any damages or injuries.
Posted on Feb 07, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Thanks for using FixYa. Error "dlf" means a door
latch failure. This means that you'll need to replace the door latch assembly
however before doing that you can leave the washer unplugged for 30minutes so
that it resets itself. In the meantime when it's unplugged just inspect the
door latch wiring to ensure all the connector plugs are intact and not loose or
broken. You can access the door latch wiring harness by removing the top panel
of the washer. To remove the top panel just remove the three screws that hold
the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the
panel will slide back, and then lift off. Locate the door latch assembly behind
the front panel on the right hand side. Trace all the connectors from the door
latch to the Central Control Unit (CCU) and make sure they are properly seated
at both ends. If after doing this still the issue is not resolved then
unfortunately you have to get the door latch replaced. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.
Sep 16, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
Aug 29, 2010 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
Jul 05, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
Feb 28, 2010 | Bosch Washing Machines
Jan 29, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
Jan 04, 2010 | Kenmore Elite Oasis 27052 Top Load Washer
May 12, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
Nov 15, 2008 | Kenmore 46462 Front Load Washer
Sep 08, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
Mar 17, 2008 | Whirlpool GHW9100L Front Load Washer
Nov 19, 2015 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
180 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: