Hi, My 3 year old Maytag SAV5710AWW top-load washer just gave way on its belt (it stopped working and smelled like burning rubber so I took off the front panel to find the belt severed). Motor itself looks to be good and I don't see any other issues. I think I can buy a replacement belt (PN 27001006) for my original belt (PN 2200063) at a Sears Parts store. However, I'm not sure HOW to replace this belt. Can anyone e-mail me some self-installation instructions or diagrams explaining how to do this? I heard it's fairly simple to do but I want to make sure I do this right the 1st time. Thanks! -dealmaster3
I have a model sav2655aww maytag washer. And it needs a new belt but I dont know how to replace it! Can the pump be removed with out removeing the motor ? Also the tub keeps going off center whats with that ?
Burning up belts on a three year old washer is unacceptable. I believe the problem is a design flaw, but there is a simple fix. The diagram shows a spring washer goes on the idler arm post first, followed by a plastic washer, then the pulley, another plastic washer, then the retaining ring. This arrangement causes so much force on the plastic washers and retaining ring that the pulley will not spin freely. This in turn will cause excessive friction, heating up the plastic washers, pullley, and post. Eventually the bronze bearing in the pulley fails causing more friction and setting up the sequence for the belt to fail. I bought all of the parts, reassembled them in proper order, and the problem is evident when the pulley won't spin freely. After taking the parts back apart I reassembled them leaving off the spring washer and it works as it should; pulley spinning freely.
I had the same problem of the belt burning and the washer not spinning. It seemed to be a tension problem, so I adjusted the idler spring (belt tension spring).
This spring pulls on the idler arm (belt tension arm) which pushes the idler pulley wheel (belt tension wheel) up against the belt to take up the slack, so that the motor will spin the washer and not just slip against the belt, burning it.
To adjust the spring, I took it off, straightened out one end with a pair of pliers, and then bent that end at a point closer to the coiled part of the spring, and then reinstalled it.
This effectively shortened the spring and made it pull harder on the arm, which took up more of the slack in the belt, allowing the motor to spin the washer rather than just rub on the belt.
Can you tell me how to remove the pimp to replace the belt?
Belt replacement is simple. all you have to do is remove the pump, i believe they are held in by 3 torx screws, either T-15 or T20. loop the belt over the motor pulley and around the tension pulley, then around the drive pulley on the transmission. reassemble the pump and if there are no other problems it should run fine
Replace maytag belt
Just had to put a new belt and idler pulley on my Maytag SAV2555AWW washer because the bronze bushing in the idler pulley come loose from the pulley and let the pulley slide down which in turn binded up the belt which in turn burnt the belt in to.I leaned my washer back and use 2 bricks to support it to keep the weight off of the plastic drain support.Then took off lower access door so as to get to the pulley.Then took off the 4 big bolts that hold the motor and pump assembly on,had to push out the 2 wire support brackets,then I could let the whole assembly set on the front upper face of the washer.Then I took out the 3 Torx screws that held the pump on using a Torx 25 screwdriver and from there it was just a matter of putting the new idler pulley and belt back on going in reverse steps until I had it back together.A little quieter on spin cycle's it seems now since a new belt and idler pulley.
I removed the pump screw with a T20 bit from a driver set. To turn the bit I used a ratchet handle, the type you flip over to reverse the direction. If you don't have this type ratchet, try a 1/4 drive ratchet with a socket. It isn't the easiest but takes less time than dropping the entire motor and then removing the pump.
I just hated to pay $32 + tax for the belt.
Jim
I had to replace the pump too,check tentioner also
There is not enough room to get to the pump screws to remove the pump to change the belt, only 2" or so of space from bottom of pump to bottom of washer and no acess holes to screw through bottom
I just put the Maytagtag Model SAV2655AWW machine on oversize load setting but then went to reset below that by mistake. It won't run. Is there something with that reset setting that I have to wait? I haven't had any problems before.
Last spin cycle washer vibrates violently
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Hi Washer_tech,
Thank you very much for your prompt expert response to my question. But May-Day! Looks like the belt itself was not the problem here - please see below.
I got a replacement drive belt (PN 27001006 after market part) and installed it according to your directions with the three T20 torx screws removed on the pump. I looped the belt as illustrated below then screwed the pump back up:
***
* * (A): Transmission pulley
* (A) * (B): Tension pulley
* * (C): Motor pulley
* *
* *(B)
* *
* *
* (C)*
**
HOWEVER, when I ran a test cycle (@ mini water level, no extra spin, regular wash), the washer looked fine initially (water IN -> 1st Spin -> Drain), but then during the Wrining cycle, washer started making a high pitch ing-ing sound (like motor running in hyper) and gave off a burning smell (mechanical burn not rubber).
I did not find anything wrong with any of the pulleys nor was there any electrical wiring damages inside the control panel nor was there piece of clothing caught btw the agitator and the tub.
I know that burning smell and screeching sound has many causes other than the bad belt but I'm now clueless about WHAT. I now know that the belt itself was not the culprit - something else caused the motor to run hyper eventually burning out the rubber.
Any idea on other root causes that I should check out and how to get at them? I've heard that motor itself or the sensor may also cause such symptoms but I don't know what steps to take. Pointing me to some Diagrams would greatly help. I'd appreciate your expert help again!
-dealmaster3
I have a Maytag Model A882 and it is doing the same thing. I replaced both belts and it is still not spinning. Help.....
3 torx screws...how can you remove the bottom to get at them?
Don't Spin Fully. Water Left In Tub. Changed Belts. Same Problem.
Need the directions on how to replace belt
I do not know which way the new belt on my matag top load washer goes back on.I can't find any pics or a diagram. model # is sav205daww
My belt broke,I just can't figure out how to take the pump off to replace it.Can someone help.
I have a Maytag washer Model LAT9604AAL that had the transmission repaired under warranty back in 2002 and yesterday while washing there was a squealing sound followed by burning rubber smell.
Question 1 - Is there a way to identify if this is another transmission related problem?
Question 2 - If not transmission, what are the other possibilities?
Thanks for your help
cant get the water pump from motor after i removed screws
Hi,
My 3 year old Maytag SAV5710AWW top-load washer just gave way on its belt (it stopped working and smelled like burning rubber so I took off the front panel to find the belt severed). Motor itself looks to be good and I don't see any other issues.
I think I can buy a replacement belt (PN 27001006) for my original belt (PN 2200063) at a Sears Parts store. However, I'm not sure HOW to replace this belt.
Can anyone e-mail me some self-installation instructions or diagrams explaining how to do this? I heard it's fairly simple to do but I want to make sure I do this right the 1st time. my email address is [email protected]
Go to yoube put the model number and will see details videos about
The model number is when open the lead look around on top
Sometimes on the back of you washer
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