Anti-flodd Aqua Control

http://www.aeg.co.uk/Support/Troubleshooter/?Command=Detail&CatId=98&SymptomId=1412&DetailId=1412shows AEG's meaning for a C3 error code

Hello, a float switch is used for a condensate pump or humidifier does not have anything really to do with the furnace not sure what the hvac guy is refeering to. If your inducer motor is running but nothing else is happening it is very possible that you pressure switch is open, this could be due to a obstruction in flue pipe, small hose going from inducer to pressure switch is loose, obstructed, or has condensation in it, otr the switch itself is bad. if the inducer is not running you will need to check if you are getting 24 volts between the R and C terminal on the integrated control board if not the transformer is bad if you are then most likely its a issue with the control board.

Hi,

The usual reason for this is that water hes leaked into the bottom of your dishwasher under the washing compartment. This has caused the float to rise and trip the switch which activates the Aqua-Stop / anti-flood protection system. This also closes the solenoid (water control valve) to stop water entering this dishwasher. You may already have had a small leak before you stopped using it.

The only way to check this is to remove the washer from under the counter (disconnect power and water supply first) and tilt it backwards about 15-20 degrees. Water should run on to the floor from under the washer so I suggest putting some old towels down first. Once the water has been drained from under the washer, you can use it again, but it's not advisable if you have a leak and this really needs to be investigated.

If there is no water from under the washer, you may have a faulty float switch or possibly a faulty control module.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
BElectric

Hi,

There is a simple explanation for this - water is leaking into the bottom of your dishwasher under the washing compartment. This has caused the float to rise and trip the switch which activates the Aqua-Stop / anti-flood protection system. This also closes the solenoid (water control valve) which explains why you thought it needed to be replaced.

The only way to check this is to remove the washer from under the counter (disconnect power and water supply first) and tilt it backwards about 15-20 degrees. Water should run on to the floor from under the washer so I suggest putting some old towels down first. Once the water has been drained from under the washer, you can use it again, but it's not advisable if you have a leak. The only way to find the leak is to get access to the bottom of the washer by removing a side panel, usually the right-hand one. As you already replaced the solenoid, you should know how to do this. Once you have access you can run a cycle and try to see where the water is leaking from or you may be able to see signs of corrosion somewhere which should help you to identify the source of the leak.

If there is no water under the washer, you probably have a faulty float switch or possible a faulty control module.

Hope this helps. Post back if you need further assistance.

Regards,
BElectric

I am not sure about this model but most models run a drain cycle for a set period at the start of a wash cycle and then move on to normal filling and cycle of machine provided the various switches are at the low level it will carry on to its set cycle,is the apartment or flood switch ok?

Probable motor control board problem.
don't buy a GE anything!

Check your manual to see if you have a drain pan at the bottom of the unit, and a 'float' that checks for water collecting there. On at least some Asko models, water collecting in the pan causes the float to rise, which then changes the operation of the dishwasher. Once that float switch turns on, the diskwasher will always run the drain pump whenever power is applied.
If this is the case for your machine, remove the kick panel. There likely is another panel behind that which covers the 'internals', including the drain pan area. You'll have to remove all of the water in the pan, and that will lower the float and return the controller to normal operation. THen you will have to diagnose the cause of the water collecting in the pan.
Another possibility is damage to the float such that it has turned on it's switch despite no water collecting in the drain pan. I've heard that in some cases a mouse will chew on the float and damage it, causing such machine operation.
In another thread, I posted my solutions to one cause of water collecting in the drain pan. In that case the drain pump was no longer reliably moving water out of the sump area inside the dishwasher. I had thought it was the manual dial control on my d1706 unit, until I learned that the dishwasher has this 'special' drain pan mode.

Paul

If you are still trying to sort out this issue try the following.

From what you say then it is most likely the aqua sensor on the side of the dishwasher. The gurgling sounds that you hear are likely the drain pump running and the un-drainable water sloshing in the sump.

Verify that there is actually water going to the dishwasher( Basic step but often overlooked)

Next the inlet valve will have to be checked. This is the part where the water line from the house connects to the dishwasher, under the toe/kick panel. Remove power from the dishwasher. Disconnect the dishwasher electrical connections (2 wires) to the inlet valve and connect it (carefully to 110 V power) using a jumper wire. With 110V power the valve should open and water will flow into the dishwasher, if not then the fault is in the inlet valve.

If this checks fine then the fault is likely in the aqua sensor...

On the outer left side (viewed from front) there is a panel, Behind this panel there is a small clear(of light blue) plastic mechanism with hoses and wires attached( There is usually a yellow disk at the top about 6cm in diameter) this is a float and sensor assembly there is tells the control the water level and works as an emergency drain if there is an issue. There will be a red stick protruding downward to the base and a Styrofoam float on which the stick rests. This is a pan overflow sensor if the stick is too high the unit will go into drain and cut off the fill valve power. The yellow disk is a diaphragm which senses water height. This unit can become stuck with wear and hard water.

Does the indoor fan run in on? If yes then you have 24 volts on the control system.
Do you have a float switch on the Air Handler?
If your Air Handler is in your attic the secondary pan can be full tripping the float switch.
also If red is broke on the float switch nothing runs.
If the drain line plugs up the float switch shuts the condenser off to prevent flooding.

111
Floor pan Leakage
Leak inside machine activating ground float switch
302
At pumping out during rinse cycle level does not fall below level 1
Drain pump faulty, blocked, aqua stop not closing completely, no signal from circuit board (connection number 6 on XA1 connection plug)