Blower does not start takes forever to start if it does atall

EPA regulations require a lean fuel:air ratio to meet emission standards. Lean mixtures causes engines to be more temperamental when starting and operating. Mixture adjustments on the carburetor, if any, commonly require special tools to fit the mixture screws.

The procedure I use with cold 2-cycle engines is to prime the carburetor if it has a bulb type primer. If it doesn't have a primer, it might require more pulling of the starter to get the carburetor pump to pull enough fuel into the carburetor before it will fire. Without choking it, pull it over several times. This helps to avoid flooding the engine if it already has enough fuel in the engine to start. If the engine is hot from being used recently, it might not need to be choked, and choking it can cause it to flood when the engine is hot.

If it doesn't start without the choke, then I choke it and pull it over 2-4 times to get it to fire, but it likely will not run very long with the choke on even if it does start. I then turn the choke off and pull it over to see if it will start. Partially opening the throttle while pulling the starter sometimes helps.

If the engine gets flooded, try holding the throttle open while pulling the starter. If it will not start, try removing the spark plug and wait before cranking it over to allow some of the fuel to evaporate before replacing the spark plug. Try to start it again without choking it, and hold the throttle open. If it does start, the throttle may need to be held open, at least partially, until excess fuel can be consumed.

These type of engines can be a real problem to start and operate. And any carburetor mixture adjustments, if any, are made hard to reach or require special tools to fit the mixture screws. Before I look to the fuel delivery system as the reason the engine doesn't start, I check to see if there is a spark at the spark plug after I take it out. There is probably another Q&A about checking for a spark, so I will not try to address that here. EPA regulations require a lean fuel:air ratio to meet emission standards. Lean mixtures causes engines to be more temperamental when starting and operating. Mixture adjustments on the carburetor, if any, commonly require special tools to fit the mixture screws. The procedure I use with cold 2-cycle engines is to prime the carburetor if it has a bulb type primer. If it doesn't have a primer, it might require more pulling of the starter to get the carburetor pump to pull enough fuel into the carburetor before it will fire. Without choking it, pull it over several times. This helps to avoid flooding the engine if it already has enough fuel in the engine to start. If the engine is hot from being used recently, it might not need to be choked, and choking it can cause it to flood when the engine is hot. If it doesn't start without the choke, then I choke it and pull it over 2-4 times to get it to fire, but it likely will not run very long with the choke on even if it does start. I then turn the choke off and pull it over to see if it will start. Partially opening the throttle while pulling the starter sometimes helps. If the engine gets flooded, try holding the throttle open while pulling the starter. If it will not start, try removing the spark plug and wait before cranking it over to allow some of the fuel to evaporate before replacing the spark plug. Try to start it again without choking it, and hold the throttle open. If it does start, the throttle may need to be held open, at least partially, until excess fuel can be consumed. These type of engines can be a real problem to start and operate. And any carburetor mixture adjustments, if any, are made hard to reach or require special tools to fit the mixture screws. Before I look to the fuel delivery system as the reason the engine doesn't start, I check to see if there is a spark at the spark plug after I take it out. There is probably another Q&A about checking for a spark, so I will not try to address that here.

I recently had a Hitachi RB24EAP blower that wouldn't start. It started easily when new and for a season of use. It gradually became harder to start, until it wouldn't start at all. It was partially disassembled, It required a puller to remove the rotor, which was tight on the shaft. The end of the crank on the ignition rotor end was tapered and had a Woodruff keyway cut into it. The rotor didn't have a keyway, but there appeared to be a sheared portion of the aluminum in the bore of the rotor where a keyway groove should have been.

An online parts diagram didn't show a key was required. The key must have been integral with the aluminum rotor. The end of the shaft is tapered and the designers must have thought the rotor would be tight enough to keep it from rotating on the shaft without a key. The key cast in the bore of the rotor was apparently there just to align it on the shaft for proper timing.

After cutting a keyway groove in the bore of the rotor with a jig saw blade, I used a Woodruff key to reassemble the rotor on the shaft. Now it starts like it did when it was new. I recently had a Hitachi RB24EAP blower that wouldn't start. It started easily when new and for a season of use. It gradually became harder to start, until it wouldn't start at all. It was partially disassembled, It required a puller to remove the rotor, which was tight on the shaft. The end of the crank on the ignition rotor end was tapered and had a Woodruff keyway cut into it. The rotor didn't have a keyway, but there appeared to be a sheared portion of the aluminum in the bore of the rotor where a keyway groove should have been. An online parts diagram didn't show a key was required. The key must have been integral with the aluminum rotor. The end of the shaft is tapered and the designers must have thought the rotor would be tight enough to keep it from rotating on the shaft without a key. The key cast in the bore of the rotor was apparently there just to align it on the shaft for proper timing. After cutting a keyway groove in the bore of the rotor with a jig saw blade, I used a Woodruff key to reassemble the rotor on the shaft. Now it starts like it did when it was new.