Broken Belt The belt keeps breaking every time I put the blade down to start mowing? I installed it according to the manual, but it still snaps as soon as the blade goes down.

Safety and Preparation Serious injury can occur if the engine or mower blades accidentally start while you are working with lawn tractors. To prevent this, drive the Murray lawn tractor onto a flat work surface and disengage the mowing deck cutting blades. Engage the parking brake to keep the mower from moving; chock the wheels with a wooden block or brick. Adjust the mowing deck to the lowest position. Turn off the engine and remove the key from the ignition. While not necessary, you may even wish to disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug. Mowing Deck Removal You must remove the mowing deck on a Murray lawn tractor to gain access to the belts. Remove the adjustment rod hairpins, followed by the adjustment rod pins from the front left and right sides of the mowing deck. At the rear on the left and right sides, pull out the retaining hairpins and slide the mowing deck suspension links from the adjuster plates to separate the rear mowing deck from the frame. Remove the blade control rod stud, including the hairpin and washer, from the top of the blade control lever shift linkage at the left rear of the deck. Remove the front hanger rod, including the hairpin and flat washer that hold the rod in place. Loosen the belt guide retaining bolts with a socket wrench and remove the engine stack pulley belt so you can slide the mower deck out from under the tractor Transmission Drive Belt Installation Slide the new transmission drive belt between the engine stack pulley belt guides, over the belt guide plate and under the engine stack pulley. Fit the transmission drive belt around the top engine stack pulley. Push the free end of the transmission drive belt up through the transmission shifter hole in the lawn tractor floorboard. Slip the transmission drive belt loop over the transmission shifter. Pull the transmission drive belt down through the transmission shifter hole. Fit the transmission drive belt around the transmission drive pulley and tighten the transmission drive pulley belt guide retaining bolts to hold it in place. Fit the transmission drive belt flat side around the idler pulley. Slide the idler pulley onto the idler pulley stud while holding the belt in place. Tighten the transmission idler pulley retaining nut with a socket wrench to secure the idler pulley to the idler pulley stud. Mowing Deck Drive Belt Installation Pull back on the right side mowing deck mandrel pulley spring-tensioned belt retainer. Guide the new mowing deck drive belt around the right side mandrel pulley and release the belt retainer. Pull the drive belt spring-tensioned retainer away from the mowing deck idler pulley, guiding the deck drive belt around the idler pulley. Fit the mowing deck drive belt around the left side mandrel pulley and under the rear mowing deck cross link rod between the right and left side mandrel pulley. Slide the mowing deck under the right side lawn tractor frame, reconnecting the deck to the frame in reverse order of removal. Engage and disengage the mower deck while driving the mower to test the belt for proper operation.

The snapped belt has a number mark.

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Check and see if the shear pin has broken. If the pulleys spin but not the blades then the shear pin in the pulley or shaft has broken.

Something in the space. Breaking the blades, a stick or etc.

Besides the drive belt, there is a timing belt inside the mowing deck. The left blade is run by the timing belt. I imagine the timing belt is broken.

Check for a broken belt, then the cable and linkages and the pulleys on the deck. Sometimes the two smaller pulleys on the deck break. It should be evident when you put your hand on it and try to turn it.

Did you get correct belt? Is it properly installed? Is it pto driven or lever operated?

Even though the routing is correct, have you checked that every spindle and idler pulley turns freely? These bearings can freeze up or bind because debris builds up in them. Also, if the bushings on the idler pulleys can wear, causing them to misalign. Keep checking. Also - is the belt snapping clean, or do you see a burnt, worn spot?

Possible timing belt, remove distributor cap and crank engine, if distributor rotor don't turn bad timing belt.

The belt hopped off likely due to grass or other things getting in-between the belt and pulley near the blade. You should be able to remove the cover on the top of the mower deck, remove the belt from the pulley under the cover, place the belt back on the pulley near the blade and then on the pulley under the cover. If the belt is shiny on the sides or you see black powder caking the inside of the cover or area's around the pulleys or the belt looks like it has chunks missing from any part of it the belt should be replaced. local hardwares, automotive and DIY centers that carry outdoor power equipment parts can match it up with the one the manual recommends using.

Tip: Keep the blade sharp, I recommend buying a couple blades so that you can always have a sharp spare installed while the other is being sharpened, change the blade as soon as the sharp edge is gone and becomes somewhat rounded on the cutting edge. If the lawn produces a lot of dust or there are lots of bald patches this will dull the blade quickly as will chopping up stick with the mower, if this is the case take steps to improve the lawn and keep the sticks picked up before you mow.
Change the oil before using it in the spring and after each 50 hours of use (more often if its used in a dusty area).
I recommend using a synthetic oil unless the manual specifically states not to.
When mulching mow in counter clockwise circles, when bagging mow in clockwise circles and in either case overlap about 1/4 the width of the mower for a complete smooth cut. after each mowing allow the mower to cool then tilt the mower on its side opposite of the carburetor (where the air filter is) and wash off the stuff stuck to the bottom, you may have to use a putty knife on the real thick or stubborn stuff. This will reduce corrosion over the years and keep the mower running and mowing efficiently not mention it avoids blowing into the air backteria produced as the clippings of past mowing decay (it makes me sneeze).