Adjusting throttle? Running but won't accelerate when I give gas. Bogs down

Hello. It seems you have a mixture/carburetor problem; may be running too rich. By you 'accelerating' the engine, that compounds the problem. Is your bike carbureted or fuel injected?

Brad:

Go back to the carburetor adjustment screws and snug them down gently. Do not use force on those screws or you'll damage the needle valve seats. Turn both screws out one and a quarter turns out and start the saw. The motor should stay running.... if not adjust the screws until it stays running. Turn one screw in until you hear the motor start to stall, then turn that screw out just a little bit. turn the other screw in until the saw starts to stall, then turn that screw out a little bit. Now if the saw bogs at full throttle, turn one screw out one quarter turn. See if the saw runs at full throttle... if not turn that same screw in to where it was and try the other screw the same way. If you're good, you can adjust the screw while the saw is running to get the best full throttle run. This is not an exact science, and it takes time and many adjustments to get the saw to idle and run at full throttle. Good luck... and have patience.

if it is not down shifting when you are applying aggressive gas pedal, maybe your transmission linkage to throttle body is off, or needs adjusted,

You need to get the engine trouble codes by performing the "keydance" or using a code reader, then start checking fuel pressure at pump and regulator. Best luck. Amclaussen.

had the same thing happen to me! and it turnned out to be a blocked catalic converter

have to adjust the high on the carb. should have, 3 screws, 2 that are together is your h for high, and L for low. the one by itself is for idle. when mackine is running, squeeze throttle and adjust the high til it clears up, if it stalls real fast, back counter clockwise while off, and try to restart it, if worse, go the other way. i do mine by 1/4 turns. keep count of turns in case your going the wrong way! hope this helps!

Sounds like a lean condition. Particularly a transition from a lesser jet to the main jet in the carbs.
Depending on how severe the problem is it could be as simple as adjusting the the main jet needles and synchronizing the carbs and richening up the idle air screw a bit.
Remember that all general service basics should be checked before adjusting carbs. Valve clearence, spark plugs, air filter, cam chain tension, etc. should all be checked/ adjusted/ serviced/ replaced before adjusting a carb.

Sounds like your carburetor either needs cleaned or the needles need adjusted. Try turning them just a bit and continue trying to accelerate the engine. If your carb has adjustable needle screws, one will be the low speed adjustment and the other will be the high speed adjustment. You'll know when you have the right one when the motor starts to run just a bit better after adjusting the correct one.

Sounds like a plugged catylic convertor, GM has a Special Policy adjustment that covers the catylic convertors for 10 years or 120,000 miles (190,000 km), whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, regardless of ownership. This is for 2001-2002 models with 3.4L or 3.8L engines. If you have a 3.8L engine you want to get this fixed soon, I have seen people drive these things so long with the convertor plugged that they melt a hole in the plastic intake plenum where the EGR port comes into the intake behind the throttle body.