Freezer door won't stay shut

Could be the air pressure created from shutting the refer door is popping open the other one. There are are channels between the two so cool air from the freezer gets to the refer compartment. Try this as a test... s l o w l y close the refer door and see if that keeps the other door from popping open. If that works then it's likely an air channel is frozen up somewhere and you may need to turn the unit off for a day or so to let it thaw out. Moisture from leaking door seals, or doors that were left slightly open overnight can be sucked in and freeze up the air channels. I don't know if you are sort of slamming the door shut or not but the doors need to be shut slowly due to how air tight the new refers are.

HEY GUYS / GIRLS (DONT WANNA LEAVE ANYONE OUT),
ANY GOOD, AIR TIGHT REFRIGERATOR WITH TOP FREEZER SHOULD POP THE OTHER DOOR OPEN WHEN YOU SHUT THE OTHER----EVEN WITH IT UNPLUGGED. THE WAY TO FIX THIS ISNT A PROBLEM WITH THE DOORS OR SEALS (IT WIIL KEEP ENOUGH AIR TO POP OPEN DOOR IF IT IS GOOD AND AIR TIGHT). WHAT YOU'LL HAVE TO DO IS ADJUST THE LEGS ON FRONT OF YOUR REFRIGERATOR OUT ENOUGH TO TILT IT BACK TO WHERE THE DOOR WILL CLOSE EVEN AFTER IT POPS OPEN. ALSO, THIS SHOULD MAKE IT WHERE THE BIG DOOR WILL CLOSE ON ITS OWN IF YOU JUST LET GO OF IT.
AS FOR THE CONDENSATION ON THE INSIDE, YOU NEED TO LOOK AT HOW WELL YOUR DOOR SEALS ARE SEALING. ARE THE SEALS AND SEALING SURFACE CLEAN? THE WAY CONDENSATION GETS IN THERE IS FROM THE OUTSIDE, HENCE, THE GUY WAS RIGHT ABOUT THE DOOR BEING OPEN IN A SENSE. BUT YOURE NOT KEEPING IT OPEN TOO LONG, THE DOOR SEALS ARENT COMPLETELY SEALING OFF. I WOULD CHECK IT RIGHT AROUND THE AREA YOU FOUND THE CONDENSATION.
HOPE THIS HELPS.
IF ANY QUESTIONS OR ADVISE TO ME EMAIL [email protected]

My new freezer did the same thing. I contacted the company and they went into the whole leveling thing. What it has to do with is the magnetic seal. The magnets are not strong enough to keep the freezer door from popping open when closing the big fridge door. They share the same duct. I level my doors on the fridge and freezer so they swing shut by themselves after opening. Just the force of the big door when it swung closed cracked open the freezer door about a quarter of an inch and if left unnoticed created a puddle and made the fridge run overtime. I solved the problem by placing strong magnets inside the fold of the magnetic seal at the handle end of the door. This is the flap on the outside the door seal. I used six magnets on the top and six on the bottom. The magnets were from discarded Sonicare tooth brush heads. They are very flat and super strong. You can find something on ebay. My freezer door doesn't budge problem solved. I did call the company and told them I solved the problem and they still insisted it was the leveling. Good luck, Art Knapp

If this is a ge there is a air break kit for this model that will help but may not fix the problem the part number is wr2x8905 this is a common problem with new ge top freezers some times the kit does not fix it completly but the door should shut itself after it opens with the kit, the unit is so air tight that the expanding air has no where to go and pushes open the door do you have any thing in the door the unitis designed for whight in the door to help keep it closed

Your going to laugh but this has worked for over a year now. I rubbed parafin wax on the insind of the freezer hindges, and my door has closed fine ever since. I saw this on the internet somewhere a while ago. I also know someone else who did this and it worked for them too. We told the local GE dealer about it and he is alos telling people about this fix.

It is true that the top and bottom (or side) compartments are connected. So when 1 door is closed, the trapped air has to escape by pushing out the other door. You can not fight it. Tilt the fridge back will help, so as loading up the door to make it heavy. But neither really solve the problem 100%. I have tried both. I have fixed the problem for good using parts laying around in my garage. Basically, my design using a magnet attached to a spring. When door opens, the magnet stays connected to the door, and then the spring pull it back to close. Works like a champ. Except it does not look pretty right now. I will make it nice.

But this is an old posting, and I am not sure if any body care about it any more. I am designing a cheap gadget to do this mainly to practice my new CAD tool. If any of you are interested, post it here.

Number 5 by kyleag76 solved my problem and I suspect will solve most peoples problem. Just plain old common sense.

I've been spending a few hours with the same issue. GE side by side. When you closed the fridge side it popped the freezer side open 1/3" or so. It turns out one of my wifes lean cuisines slide behind the rack on the very bottom of the freezer and was keeping the door from closing as tight as it could. Although when you would close the freezer it did not seem like there was anything blocking it.

We had a similar problem. If you open the bottom door a little bit and look from the side you may see that the door is not parallel to to the refrigerator. The end result was not having a good seal at the top and not closed completely if you don't muscle it shut. GE came in and removed the door ...., replaced the side support, and it seems to have solved our problem.

This is because the freezer and refrigerator compartments are actually connected. The only brand that is not connected is a Samsung. they use 2 seperate evaporators. All other brands use one evaporator for both the freezer and fridge compartments. Samsung fridges will not transfer odors from fridge to freezer, or vice versa. DId ya ever have stinky ice cubes? thats why! Buy a Samsung, problem solved. Go up to any non samsung fridge and slam the door, the freezer door will pop[ and vice versa.

Our new Kenmore top freezer refrigerator had the problem of the freezer door popping open when the lower door was closed

I just got 2 strong little magnets (1" x 1/8" x 1/2") from a place I saw on Google, K&J Magnetics. They actually worked. Strong enough to keep the freezer door shut but not too strong so the door can be opened easily.

I had this problem on a new frig . I removed the freezer door and found that the plastic washer the bottom pivot rides on was badly scored . I lubricated the pins anyway
and reattached the door. It works great for now, but I will still order a new plastic washer.

We had a similar problem. If you open the bottom door a little bit and look from the side you may see that the door is not parallel to to the refrigerator. The end result was not having a good seal at the top and not closed completely if you don't muscle it shut. GE came in and removed the door ...., replaced the side support, and it seems to have solved our problem. Deb

Go to the bottome of the freezer and you will find ice blocking a drain and chip it out and it should fix your problem. it did for me.

When I shut the refrigerator door, the freezer door pops open. I don't think it is the magnetic seal because I can feel the pull of the magnet when I open the freezer door when it is shut, but it pops open every time I close the frig door.

I've had this problem for years. Its not brand-specific. I've had several different brands, new and old. I think its only side-by-side refrigs. My brother had a brand new Kenmore and it was happening to him from the beginning. I wonder if something like magnets or velcro could be invented for the doors, to put on top of to the seal. The rubber seals only work if you "gently" close the door. Closing the freezer door too hard, will open the other side - all the time. And I don't think it has to do with the angle of the door, either. I had a Maytag repairman spend an hour to try to fix it (that frig was under warranty) and it did not work.

Replace the motor step damper

Some brands have the legs problem > adjustable feet spirit level it set it not on a unstable wooden underground but stones or concrete floor.
Even do not fill the bottom to full because if the bottom is to full a veggie bin thats to full can blocked the door to close Some refrigerators (like SIemens) have a thaw hole which transmits to a water tank above the compressor where the water can evaporate. Also in the freezer can sometimes sit drain plug water and that is gone.

I have a Frigidaire Side-by-side refrigerator that just started doing this. I found that the closer hinge bearing on the bottom of the freezer door had broken and the closer part just spins and doesn't close the door enough for the magnets to catch.

I've been spending a few hours with the same issue. GE side by side. When you closed the fridge side it popped the freezer side open 1/3" or so. It turns out one of my wifes lean cuisines slide behind the rack on the very bottom of the freezer and was keeping the door from closing as tight as it could. Although when you would close the freezer it did not seem like there was anything blocking it.

I was watching t.v. and all the sudden I heard what sounded like someone pulling the door on the freezer open, the catch was I was the only one home at the time. So I went to see what happend. The freezer door was open about 5"inches and could not explain why? Execept this an Amana 17 Full freezer like from 1985. The freezer still runs, Is full of food and is very clean. Could it be that it is letting go? or is it a ghost??? LOL ?somone please help?

My appliance man said to take a little liquid dishwashing soap and apply it lightly to the seal on the freezer door. It helped us.

Problem solved. I bought a brand new Kenmore and had this problem. Doors were adjusted properly and sealing well but the main door and freezer door weren't swinging shut on their own. I read up on the internet about this problem and adjusted the front two feet so that the doors swing shut and then oiled the hinges with 3 in 1 oil. Voila! Problem solved. No matter how hard I slam the main door the freezer pops open a bit and then shuts on its own.