SOURCE: dryer doesn't work
putzer, I give you credit, this is not the easiest job on this model. If this is a 417 model, on the housing where the element sits inside you have a high limit thermal fuse and control thermostat. According to the diagram I have the high limit should have a black and orange/black wire coming from it. These diagrams can be wrong however. Remove the wires from it and test it with a meter, should show continuity. If it is open, no heat. Catriver...post back.
SOURCE: oven element
model T, either you have a stuck or shorted broil keypad or the relay on the board is welded closed. Try this, remove the back panel behind the control panel. Make sure the breaker is off to the range. Unplug the keypad ribbon cable to the main board. Power the unit back up. You should get an error code. Now if the broiler still comes on you know you have a welded broiler relay on the board. If the broiler doesn't come on..it's the keypad. Catriver.
SOURCE: bottom element will not turn off
Your BAKE element relay on the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) Board is shorted. I have experienced this problem before. The board is not serviceable and (unfornately) you will have to replace it. The board can run anywhere from $100 to $200 for a new one. Slightly less for a refurbished one. Prices will also vary depending on source. This is a repair you can do yourself if you choose to do so. If you can provide me with your model number (located inside the lower door panel), I can do some research to get a part number and price for you. Let me know. I hope this is helpful.
SOURCE: Kenmore 47779 double oven; lower oven doesn't work after self clean
Sounds like a thermal overload has opened up during clean. It may be mounted on the back.
SOURCE: heating element in GE Range Oven
get the model number and order the exact repacement bake element
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