Top 10 Mantis 2-Cycle Tiller Questions & Answers

There are only 4 parts to the 2-stroke Mantis ignition system: the spark plug, the "kill button", the flywheel with embedded magnets, and the coil with integral plug wire. There are no "points" to clean or refurbish. If you've tried a new spark plug, unplugged the wire leading up the handlebars, and the magnets on the side of the flywheel are strong enough to attract a screw driver blade, then it must be a bad coil. That's all it could be. End of story.

Cruising the internet I see where these Echo coils go bad all the time. You can order the coil, but if the machine hasn't run in several years the carb will also need cleaning. So one thing leads to another. The gear box grease also needs replacing each year. What I'm trying to tell you is these are disposable tillers and due to length of time, incomplete care/ storage, ....whatever, this one's time is up.

Sorry.

I had the same problem, get a rebuild kit. It sounds like the diaphram is shot. Also make sure the prime bulb doesn't have any holes or cracks, the engine won't run if it does

Your quickest fix for this problem is to simply replace the carburetor, a Zama K54A. Do it all the time. After that, if you can find a 2 cycle oil, Opti-2, it's the best you can use and it's a one mix for all your 2 cycle equipment (blowers, trimmers, chainsaws, etc.) It's the only 2 cycle I sell in my shop.

hello d, the correct spark plug is CJ8Y champion set at 0.20, hope this helps,oh could you please rate this solution,thank you.

Put the tiller in a vise clamping on the bottom of worm gear housing. Remove worm gear housing cover. Clamp the worm gear at the top with a vise grip (I think Kuya Jon is correct in that you could skip this step because the transmission won't move when unscrewing, but I did it anyway just in case). Put a pipe wrench on the left tine shaft and unscrew it like it was a normal bolt. It's in there tight and it will take some force. When I unscrewed mine, the left bearing seal retainer, left bearing seal, and left bearing all came out with it. I just needed to replace the seals. I went to the right side, and with a screw driver carefully pried out the retainer. Then it's easy to just pull out the right seal with your finger. Put a new right seal in and insert the right retainer. Make sure the retainer is facing the correct way. I used a block of wood to tap mine in once I had it positioned because I was afraid to hit the retainer with a hammer. Now I put the tine shaft back in while holding the worm gear with the vise grip. Screw the shaft as far as it will go by hand and then go the rest of the way with a pipe wrench. Now came the tricky part. The right bearing did not slide right in. There was some resistance. I had to use a 1/2" threaded pvc pipe (not sure it needs to be threaded but that's what worked for me) longer than the tine shaft that was sticking out. I slip the pipe over the shaft against the bearing and tapped with a hammer. This drove the bearing in all the way. It needs to go in far enough to leave room for the seal and retainer. The plastic pvc allowed for this. Now put the right seal in. If the outer edge of the seal is only flush with the housing you did not tap the bearing in far enough. I made this mistake on my first try and tried to force the retainer in. Take it from me. It won't work. You will end up ordering another retainer to replace the one you mangled. Once in properly I slid the retainer over the shaft and then put a washer over that to tap against. The block of wood doesn't work on this side because the shaft is in the way. I used my pvc pipe again to tap against the washer and, wala, it worked like a charm. I hope this helps someone. All the other posts really helped me. Thanks!

Two cycle engines don't prime the same way that 4 cycles do. A 4 cycle engine shoots fuel into the intake, and a two-stroke like what you have, pressurizes the carburetor and removes air. When you press it, it should harden, and then will slowly let fuel bypass the carb and go back into the fuel tank. Because of the ports and the design of a 2 stroke, shooting fuel into the intake would be bad for the engine.

Carburetor problem. Two stroke engines use oil mixed with gas. Old fuel or setting over the winter will cause varnish and sludge in the Carburetor. Start by buying a can of carburetor cleaner and mixing a new can of fuel.
1) Dump the old fuel and check replace it with new.
2) Remove the air cleaner.
3) Pump the prime bulb 3 or 4 times, set the choke, spray the insides of the carb with the cleaner and then try and start it . It should sputter and run for a few second but chances are it will take a few sprays to clean the jets

When the engine and carb were new, the factory settings were 1 1/4 turns out. As fuel deposits form and things wear, it is normal to need occasional adjustment. If the adjustments need to go more than 2 1/2 turns out, or if the adjustments seem to need constant change, then the carb needs to be overhauled. Here in the USA, many areas use gas that is 10% alcohol. The alcohol effects the soft parts in the carb and will often cause hardening of the diaphragm. If/when you overhaul the carb, also replace the fuel lines and tank grommet.
Good Luck!

Start out with 1.5 turns on High speed jdet and 1/2 turn on the low speed. Make sure plug is not wet, better yet install a new one. Clean, fresh fuel and give it a pull.

Turn the carb mixture screw all the way in until it bottoms out and count the turns as you do that, then turn it out the same number of turns plus 1/2 more and see how it idles, if it runs poorly try turning it in and out slightly for best idle.