Husqvarna Chain Saw 20" Bar - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

OK - let's work through this. If you need choke all the time then the mixture is too weak when the choke is off. Putting the choke on literally chokes off the air supply to the engine by lowering a small shutter across the entrance to the carburettor. That means either there is too much air getting to the engine (don't see how!!) or too little fuel. So, how do we get too little fuel? You could check for this as follows;
- before we do anything tricky let's check the obvious things - is there a fresh fuel mix in the tank? Petrol does go off, especially if there is 2 -stroke oil added to it. If it's over a month old from the pump mix up a fresh batch. Is the idle speed set too low so the engine stalls when the choke is knocked off? You can see this screw to one side of the carburettor (you need to remove the top lid in front of the handle on the chain saw, and then remove the air filter to see it). Turn the screw half a turn clockwise to speed the engine up. Be warned - if the engine starts it will run faster than normal and that means the chain may start to spin around. Also - check that the chain brake is off (i.e. the safety lever is pulled backwards, and that the chain is free to move BEFORE you attempt to start)
- is the fuel filter blocked? To get to this, make a wire hook (e.g. thick fuse wire) and gently hook out the fuel filter that's sitting at the bottom of the fuel tank, and take a look at it (be gentle - you can damage the gauze if you are clumsy). Does the gauze look clear? I.e. if you dip it into petrol it will freely run into the filter and of course drain out when you lift it? If not, replace it.
- next stop - are the jets in the carburettor set right? I don't have a service manual for this (and I know the manual says unhelpfully "return for service") but basically you will have seen two holes on the side of the chain saw (below the handle) two small 0.8cm holes; one marked 'L' (for low speed) and the other 'H' (for high). Put a fine flat screwdriver down the L hole and feel for the slot of the low speed jet. Once engaged turn it out half a turn and this will enrich the mixture - if this seems to help and you can start the engine then adjust the L jet in or out until the engine is idling comfortably. If it idles too quickly then you can also turn down the idle screw (see previous paragraph).
- no luck still? Well, it could be fuel pump or a blocked jet in the carburettor but this really is a 'return to the service centre' task!

Good luck!

Your seeing the problem. Air in the fuel lines usually caused by a cracked fuel line or a pin hole in the primer bulb. Until you can stop the air bubbles by either replacing the actual primer bulb or fuel lines your always going to have the hard to start problem. This can also cause the engine to run lean at high RPM settings and eventually burn a hole in the piston. You should repair the fuel problem ASAP. If you do not find any fuel line / primer bulb problems then it is time to start looking at the carb diaphram.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Kelly

It really depends on which model 455 rancher you have. The "455e" models have a lever on the chain cover that you lift and turn counterclockwise in order to remove. The regular 455 models have two nuts that you remove in order to take the chain cover off. There is also a chain tensioner on both. On the 455e model you turn the wheel down to increase tension and on the 455 you turn the screw below the foremost nut to tension. Remember that you want to just snug the chain to the bar. You should be able to rotate the chain around the bar by hand.

http://www.mediafire.com/download/vl6tkv4b69eyvvh the tuning screws are located on the left hand side of the saw, by the top cover

Turn the saw upside down so you're looking at the bottom. There will be a little hole with a flat head adjusting screw on the clutch side of the crank housing with an arrow and a + and - sign with an oil drip logo.

late 70's into the early 80's.

Carburetor is gummed up. You can thank Ethanol gas for hat

First check the lines to make sure they are clear of chips. Use only bar and chain lube. If this does not work, the pump may be bad and need replacing.

The 51 does not have an adjustable oil pump.

The lines fit tight to prevent leaking. You must disconnect the fuel filter and pull the line out. Cut the new line end "v" shaped to allow you to push back into tank. Long needle nose pliers will complete the job.

The 240 runs standard a 3/8 " pitch H36 low profile chain. The proper size file is 5/32" (4.0 mm)

Fuel tanks are always closest to the operator. The oil tank is the tank closest to the chain.

There could be a couple of issues, wear in the engine or a clogged fuel or air filter.

My 372 xp did that and when I talked to the repair shop they even showed me. There is a fiberglass gasket that is used to mount the carburetor to the engine. I have no idea on how this happens, but I saw it with my own eyes. The gasket had actually folded over. They replaced it with a rubber one and have had no problem since. The saw was hard to start, would run as long as I didn't try to cut anything and when I did it would open up and then die. I could be giving wrong information, but that sounds exactly like the problem I was having.

this is a sure sign of a fuel blockage some place !! id start with fuel filter and air filter and then look closely at fuel lines for signs of collapsing when running (CAREFULLY!!!!!) then move on to cleaning and resetting carb jets remember choke richens fuel/air mix so if it needs choke to run then it's being restricted in fuel supply

Hi check the clutch the springs may be broken and blocked the shoes

Check for spark after it quits. If none, the ignition module may be dying when hot. If ok, check the muffler for plugging. Use compressed air to remove sawdust from cylinder and head area. If everything looks good, note whether the spark plug is getting wet with fuel after trying to restart the saw. If dry, check the fuel lines for cracking or other deterioration. Make sure the fuel tank vent is clear of debris. (Loosen the fuel cap for a moment, then see if it will start.) Hopefully, one of these suggestions will hit on the problem!

pull the starter cover pull rope out to length lock the housing the rope is in, in place with a tool pull out rope. reinsert new rope into retaining hoe tie a not and cut off excess rope. put ropr through handle hole reattach handle and remove tool you used to hold the rope housing. This is if your spring and starter assembly are ok. Or you could stop being a cheap and let a shop do it for 5 minutes labor.

Hay do you mean to re-fill the gun or to get the grease just to com out. If the latter then put the nose over the holl and push the very back of the gun, it's spring loaded so give it a good push

The return spring is not supposed to come out, however, remove the e clip and pull out the pin, the spring has a loop at the an arched leg and a leg with a pig tail. Press the arch leg and the pig tail leg together and push the loop up into the hand guard with the pig tail facing toward what would be the rear of the saw, push it up as far as it will go, push the pin back in and re fit the e clip, the arch leg of the spring should now be resting on the top of the pin if you have done ir correctly, and the tail of the pig tail should be protruding.