20 Most Recent Frigidaire GLTF2940ES Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa

Based on your description I suspect the rear bearing or spider gear is toast. You are probably right, either the suspension shock absorbers are broke or the inner basket is separated from the spider gear often times.

Very common for these machines unfortunately. It isn't too bad if just shocks, but it is a very involved repair for the spider gear/inner basket.

**Unplug the unit from the wall before attempting any of these service tips...safety first**

You'll need to remove the lower access panel to investigate the shocks...these shown are the newer style but previous versions where all plastic, hence the broke much easier.

i.e.



and the rear panel to inspect the basket & spider gear attachment. Check for any signs of leakage or rust behind where the arrow indicates...the tub bearing.



If you think you're up to it I can help in whatever manner possible with those Frigidaire washers.

I'll watch for your reply. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

During normal operation, the display may show:
“SAn” - deep clean (Sanitary Cycle)
“cd” - cool down (Sanitary cycle)
“do” or “dr” - door problem.
“Err” - an error has been detected.
“LOC” - control lock is activated.
“PAU” - cycle has been interrupted.
To clear latest stored error code:
• Turn the Program Knob to the start position, Spin
Only.
• Press Start/Pause to start the cycle and save it.
• Press Cancel to stop the cycle and turn off the
LEDs.
• Press Cancel again to turn on the LEDs.
• Within 5 seconds, press and hold the Option and
Start/Pause buttons until LEDs start sequentially
chasing, then release buttons.
Turn the program knob clockwise 7 clicks from the
Start Position. The control will signal the last error
code.
• Press and hold the Options and Start/Pause
buttons for 3 seconds. The code will be cleared.
• Exit Diagnostic Mode to return the washer to normal
operation.
a) Unplug the power cord, wait 5-8 seconds, then
reconnect the power cord OR
b) Turn the program knob clockwise 2 or 3 clicks
after the Start Position. Press Options and
Start/Pause buttons together for a few seconds
until wash cycle LEDs appear.
Simple right? LOL and then you do the hokey pokey...
OK where where we?
Ah yes we needed to dump the old code so we can do a fresh
diagnostic Test.
Diagnostic Test:
The diagnostic test is used to check individual component
function only.
TO START THE TEST:
• Turn the Program Knob to the start position,
Spin Only.
• Press Start/Pause to start the cycle and save it.
• Press Cancel to stop the cycle and turn off the LEDs.
• Press Cancel again to turn on the LEDs.
• Within 5 seconds, press and hold the Options and
Start/Pause buttons until LEDs start sequentially
chasing, then release buttons.
1. All the LEDs will sequentially light. Pressing a
button below a light cluster will light all the LEDs in
that cluster at one time to confirm functionality.
2. Turn the program knob (1) click clockwise from the
start position. The hot water solenoid will activate
and hot water should enter through the detergent
compartment.
3. Turn the program knob (2) clicks from the start
position. The bleach water solenoid will activate and
cold water should enter through the bleach
compartment.
4. Turn the program knob (3) clicks from the start
position. The bleach and the wash water solenoids
will activate and cold water should enter through the
softener compartment.
5. Turn the program knob (4) clicks from the start
position. The door lock solenoid will deactivate and
the loading door can be opened.When the door is
opened, the drum light should turn on.
6. Turn the program knob (5) clicks from the start
position. The washer will fill and tumble. Once
tumbling has started, the Boost Heater (if so
equipped) will turn on.
7. Turn the program knob (6) clicks from the start
position. The drain pump & door lock solenoid will
activate and the washer will operate in high spin.
SAFETYWARNING: If power is removed during this
test, the door can be opened. To prevent injury, DO
NOT put your hands inside when the tub is rotating. Oopz!
8. Turn the program knob (7) clicks from the start
position. The control will signal the last error code.
Exiting Diagnostic Mode
There are two options for exiting theDiagnosticTestmode
and returning the washer to normal operation:
a) Unplug the power cord, wait 5-8 seconds, then
reconnect the power cord OR
b) Turn the program knob clockwise 2 or 3 clicks after
the start position. Press Options and Start/Pause
buttons together for a few seconds until wash cycle
LEDs appear.
If a situation arises where you cannot exit the
Diagnostic mode as described above and the
bank of 5 LED’s on the right end remain ON
regardless of Program Knob position, a combination
of pushed buttons may have caused the
control to enter a special factory test mode.
Disconnect power to reset the control to return
washer to normal operation if this occurs. Are we clear so far? It gets better: Here are your fault codes:
E11 Fill time to long check inlet screens, kinked

hoses unpaid water bill Etc
E13 Water leak in tub or air leak in air bell or

sediment in hos as well. Blow that ****** out.
E21 Water not pumping out fast enough. trash i pump,

frozen drain call roto rooter, skip that LOL
E23 Drain pump relay on control board failed, check

for broken wire or buy a new board hay you could use a

$500 spare right?
E24 same as E23
E31 Pressure sensor not communicating with control

board find tube blow out sand sediment etc
E35 Again sediment or suds in tube.these type errors

can be caused by too much soap wrong soap soap placed

in wrong dispenser.
The rest are on page 63
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

E5E  IS FOR  Communication problem. THERE IS 100 %WIRE SHORTING SOMEWHERE.PLEASE CHECK OUT.
ALSO OTHER ERRORS Error code - Fault condition
E11 Fill time too long.
E13 Water leak in tub or air leak in air bell.
E14 Reed switch.
E21 Water not pumping out fast enough.
E23 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E24 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E31 Better models. Pressure sensor not communicating with control board.
E35 Better models. Pressure sensor indicates water overfill.
E41 Control board thinks the door switch is open.
E42 Door remains locked after cycle is completed.
E43 Control board problem. 
E44 Control board problem. 
E45 Control board problem. 
E46 Control board problem.
E47 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin.
E48 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is closed.
E52 Bad signal from tacho generator.
E55 Motor overheating.
E56 High motor current.
E57 High current on inverter.
E58 High current on motor phase.
E59 No tacho signal for 3 seconds.
E5A High temperature on heat sink.
E5B High temperature on heat sink.
E5C High temperature on heat sink.
E5D Communication problem.
E5E Communication problem.
E5F Communication problem.
E67 Input voltage on microprocessor incorrect.
E75 Better models only. Water temperature sensor circuit.
E76 Better model only. NTC temperature for the cold water valve over the limits.
E95 Communication error.
EB1 Incoming power frequency out of limits.
EB2 Incoming line voltage above 130 VAC.
EB3 Incoming line voltage below 90 VAC.
EF1 Clogged drain pump.
EF2 To much soap.

Hey friend, thank you for the post!

I see you are getting an 18h code on your front load washer. Normally any error code would have the letter E or F in it. I would suggest that stands for 18 hour delay start cycle, you could do a reset on your washer by disconnecting power to it or turning off the household circuit breaker for ten minutes and turning it back on. Hope this information is helpful. -Matt

you will need to unplug the machine and take off the back panel and look for a small 5mm pipe leading upwards, take it off and blow gently into it you should hear a click and another one when you let the air out again if so then the small pipe where you took it from is blocked preventing the switch to work properly , unblock the pipe with a pipe cleaner or metal rod its normally full of soap goo return the pipe and close the back up and run the machine again eric

if you send me the diagram I can possibly give you the answer, as normally there is the driver pcb to consider or I will find you the best way to do it, please ask the web site for my email address as I don't know if Im allowed to publish it on this answer eric

frigidaire has problems with their computer boards and it sounds like this is your problem,i've seen them shut down and then after a while start beeping on it's own just like your machine is doing and it was the board part 137006000

Call Frigidaire and keep asking for someone higher up until you get results.

Motor has some shorted windings. Timer switches to higher current for faster rotation and the thermal overload protection shuts the process off as the current is too high because of the shorted windings.

You bought them in 2009 and it's 2017. That's 8 years later.