Dayton Gas Furnace Heater - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Your thermostat is not working.

Hello I'm having a similar issue with my furnace. Same model. 4 lights are flickering. Filter has been replaced, there's proper air flow. Blows out cold air. This has been occuring every year for 3 years. Techs have told me there's nothing wrong with it and showed me where the limit switches are and how to fix it. It's happened again tonight and everything they showed me is not working. Not sure what to do except call a service tech. Any help? York GF8100C16MU11A

Check the owners manual for directions https://www.manualslib.com/

The High temperature limit controls how much heat your furnace will deliver. The higher the temperature the hotter the air it delivers. At the same time, the higher the temperature, the hotter the exhaust that is wasted energy. The amount of heat you need relates to outside temperature. Some more sophisticated controls would adjust the high limit to change with outside temperature However, with a fixed limit, the lower the limit the more efficient your operation. If you are looking for maximum efficiency, then you should lower the limit to the point where the fan runs continuously on a cold day. If the fan shuts down, it means that you are making more heat in the furnace than you need. You might want to change the high limit to be higher in the colder part of the winter when you need maximum heat, and then lower it when the outside temperature worms up. If you are getting adequate heat at 150 Deg. you should not go higher, because the higher the limit, the lower the efficiency and the greater the stress on the furnace.

Check the high and low snap disk and check wall thermostat if fitted.

Well you have to buy reducer to get it down to 2 inches. Are you sure it's 2 inches or 3 .
Maybe this is a high efficiency heater so design to use a 2 inches pvc pipe

http://www.homedepot.com/p/AlumiConn-2-Port-Al-Cu-Wire-Connector-10-Pack-95015/204958912?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-VF-PLA-D27E-Electrical%7c&gclid=CPyYyb-TzNMCFYq2wAodepICWw&gclsrc=aw.ds The only way considered safe to connect copper and aluminum is through a splice connector. Specifically, you have to connect the wires individually so they are not prone to corrosion. Semper Fi, Z

Try national energy they are on line and carry most spares

Get the pilot light sensor replaced as the burn down with use and if they are just out of spec the sensor cools and shuts off the gas flow for safety

If your pressure switch has ever been replaced, make sure that it was replaced with an OEM pressure switch, because it can cause some strange behavior on your furnace. Check out this video, as this is touched upon in it: Amazon Furnace Parts: http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=gas%20furnace%20parts&linkCode=ur2&tag=amznelite-20

Remove the cover over the burners so an inspection of the heat exchanger is a bit easier. Take an LED flashlight and a small telescoping mirror and inspect the heat exchangers front section above the burners giving special attention to the two sections of the chamber on either side of the pilot light. Many times there will be a hole in the chamber or a crack that will allow the blower that circulates the air into the duct blow out the pilot light. If you are handy enough, consider turning off the gas and remove the ribbon burners prior to performing your inspection. The pilot assembly is probably attached to one of the burners. Lay them on the floor in the order in which they install in the furnace as some furnaces have dedicated left and right end burners and most older standing pilot furnaces have the one burner with the pilot mounting bracket. To remove, many times you gently pull backwards towards the gas manifold while raising up on the front of the burners. Once elevated enough, the burner then slips off the brass spud (orifice) and forward and out. The next reason the pilot can go out is because the safety 'holding' coil in the gas valve is defective. Its responsibility is to hold open electrically a safety circuit proving the pilot gas is burning so that main gas can flow. The thermocouple generates just enough electricity to hold the safety coil open. Coil bad = pilot out. If your furnace is over 25 years old, there is a good chance there is a hole or crack.

Do not run contentiously during heat mode. the fan runs at a slower speed with heat and heat fires first then the fan cycles on during heat cycle then when heat satisfies the thermostat the heat will cycle off and fan will run for a couple more minutes and then cycle off. So set stat on fan cycle to auto.

You don't indicate whether it is a gas or an electric furnace, so its somewhat difficult to give other than a generic answer. First and foremost, you have to make sure the furnace is working to its utmost efficiency. If it is an electric furnace, one or more of the individual heating elements could be not functioning correctly, lowering the furnace total output which in turn has to run longer to produce the amount of heat required to satisfy the thermostat setpoint. Of course, the lower the outdoor temp, the longer the furnace has to run to maintain the indoor temp setpoint because the loss of heat is greater with the lower temperatures. If it's a gas furnace, its either working or not, but there are some cases where the gas control refuses to pass full flow of gas. This is a very rare situation, and I doubt that is what is happening. Either furnace needs to have a clean filter to maximize its output. Check around doors for leaking door gaskets or leaking threshhold gaskets. Check around the windows for air leakage. If you have a gas furnace and its not a high efficiency unit that draws air from the outside from the second of two pvc pipes, the furnace has to draw 'combustion air' from within the house. That air mixes with the gas, then escapes the house up the flu. The result is that that air has to be replaced, so the slightly negative air pressure INSIDE you house is replenished by outside air seeping in cracks and crevases around doors and windows. Its a law of physics, pressure will flow from high to low and when this happens, you may feel a draft around the windows. You can't totally seal the house as a certain amount of fresh air is required for a healthy environment, but excess leakage needs to be eliminated.

sounds like the air to gas setting is wrong, not enough air intake. there should be an air adjuster near the burn box. where the gas goes into the burn box. fallow the gas line to find it. adjust it till it burns correct. there also should be a gas pressure adjuster to, it should be near the burner.

It should only do that a few times then lock out necessitating reset by cycling the power at the furnace switch or at the t-stat. More than likely your hot surface ignitor is defective. Sequence should be something like this: Call for heat, combustion air fan initiates and blows for 30 seconds during a 'pre-purge' condition, then a relay clicks to energize the hot surface ignitor. If it does not ignite the flame within a few seconds, usually around 5 or 6 seconds, the ignitor relay clicks again and drops it out. The flame sensing rod has to see flame to rectify the ground signal to the circuit board very quickly or else raw gas would continue to dump into the heat chamber. After the HSI relay drops out on flame failure the combustion air fan continues to run for a post purge cycle to purge the heat exchanger of any unburnt fuel before the sequence is initiated again. Unplug the ignitor molex plug. It'll be within a few inches of the HSI itself. Insert a voltage test meter set to read 120 volts into the molex plug going TO the ignitor. Re-establish the call for heat, wait for a cycle of the relay clicks and steadily watch the meter. If the ignitor is bad, you should see 120 volts at the connection you are plugged in to AFTER the 30 second pre-purge. Watch closely, you may only have a 6 second window to see it because it will drop it out on flame failure. Of course there are other issues that could be possible, but this is the most likely. If you do determine the ignitor is bad and you obtain a replacement DO NOT TOUCH the portion of the ignitor that glows (to ignite the gas) during assembly !!!! The oil from your skin will shorten the life expectancy TREMENDOUSLY.

try turning off the power to the furnace, wait about 10 to 15 minutes, then turn the power on, it might work, if not, the relay is bad

Sounds like the thermocouple is shot

There is a small screw near where the pilot gas tube connects to the gas valve. You can adjust flame height there.

Pressure switch is not proving that the inducer fan is running. First check to see if draft inducer fan is running that will be the small black fan that is hooked to the vent pipe. If fan is not running then replace fan. If fan is running then check the small rubber tub that runs from inducer blower blower to draft switch make sure the hole in the blower cage is not stopped up with rust you can clear this with a sewing needle. If this is clear then check the pressure switch with a volt meter make sure it is getting 24 volts to the switch and through the switch. If it is getting to switch and not through switch then replace the switch.

When the door is open the safety switch turns off power. 1. low voltage transformer may be the culprit. Also a bad fan relay. very carfully with door off off close safety switch with a insulated probe touch transformer and listen for the buzz. 2. with the transformers it can be a common problem. Check for loose mounting screws. www.goodmancooling.com