20 Most Recent Bosch Nexxt Premium WFMC6400UC Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

The motor is losing its power due to dry bearings or burnt windings. It will probably need to be replaced (after 8 years..wow!).

SEIMENS FRONT LOADER ULTRA SENSE DRAINING PROBLEM

On my SEIMENS washer, which is about the same as BOSCH, the drain problem seems to be usually a small sock jammed in the intake of the drain pump, or possibly in a hose before the pump. I found a quarter and a couple of staples in the attached settlement area where junk settles to avoid jamming the pump. Also a lot of dirt.

On the lower front under the door, while facing the washer, is a round plate with a little hole in it. Put something sturdy, a little bigger than a toothpick in there, and rotate the plate about a 16th of a turn, maybe a little more, and it comes off.

Take duct tape or similar and tape up the edges of the hole and a nearly vertical bar in the hold on the left side, because the edges will cut your hand, like they did mine.

Inside the hole you will see a black turn knob inside. Turn it left very slowly, only after you figure out where the water will go, probably a small bucket or two of it. I used a 4" funnel which got most of it, I think, funneling into the bucket. Maybe you can be more creative, but it is what was at hand. Still got water on the floor out of the garage into the street. Turn left slowly, so it doesn't dump water outside of the funnel. You will see the water is brown, silt, dirt and stuff.

If you get a lot of water out, that means the blockage is probably at the pump. If you don't get water out, the blockage is probably in the hoses from the washer, which means you need to undo hose clamps going into the pump and clear the blockage. That is harder.

Most likely it is something in the pump area itself.

After most or all of the water is gone, and it doesn't seem to unscrew any more, tug on it and it will come out exposing the pump and probably the sock.

Remove the sock, and check the pump impellors to make sure they are intact. If gone, that means a new impellor and probably a pump. Then move the impellor, it should click as it moves and stop. If it does, you have found the problem. Sock blocking the outlet.

Carefully clean out the **** inside the pump settlement area. If you leave any of the sandy gritty clumpy stuff it can ruin your pump. Also clean the plastic thingy you pulled out, and make sure the threads and sealing surfaces are clean there too.

Then screw it back in firmly, and start the washer, without clothes. I would just fill it up, starting the cycle, until it starts to agitate, then go to the drain position

With luck, it will now drain. .

This will save you a service call for something easy to fix yourself.

If you are the fix-it-yourself type you can take the screws out of the front panel and top panel ( if the door is locked there is a green cord hanging inside the round port on the bottom of the front panel, find it and pull it to open the door) then take the two screws out that hold the switch and unplug the 3 modular plugs on the switch. The switch comes apart by carefully un-clipping the brown clips around its edge. Take note of the assembly inside so you can put it back together properly. The little armature that goes through the magneto sometimes slips out of the groove where it ends with a small flat head. once everything is in place clip the switch back together and install the plugs and the switch.Replace the panels and screws and you should be back to normal. Do this if other remedies fail. C.Dominici

I would take the water pump ad trip it to clear the rotating shaft of possible cotton threds or other debris stuck in-between the rubber water seals as this can cause a slow dripping of the water as it creeps between the still shaft of the water pump eric

Either a blocked filter or worn carbon brushes

if you open the top of washer their should be a schematic taped to the side with all the info you need.

What error message did you get? Did you research what the error message indicated? How can you make a repair without knowing what is wrong? Makes no sense.

If it does not drain, then it will not spin.
Locate and clean pump filter.

I am willing to send you a copy of the manual that covers 4 Nexxt Premium models; I have a PDF.

This video will show you how to change a door seal on this Bosch WFMC6400UC front loader washing machine we have all bosch repairs in our channel You can get seals on eBay

means that the computer is seeing the door as opened even though it may be closed, you can fix this by following this guide: Bosch Front Load Washer Error E01

This is a trouble code for a fill that is taking to long. Make sure that both the hot and cold water valves are turned on. Hope this helps.

Your water pump is clogged

Blocked inlet filter or kinked hose if not then it will be your inlet valve

LID LOCK LIGHT STAYS ON NO START: Usually either the lid lock mechanism, the lid lock actuator or the board is the culprit even a disconnected capacitor. MACHINES SAIDS SENSING When the START button is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washer will slowly spin the dry load to estimate the load size, and begin adding water. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has been added for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load. NOTE: The sensing light may also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal. Try unplugging the cord a couple of times. See what happens then try going into diagnostic error codes, see what codes are shown. To pin point where the problem is. if you have no display to read the fault codes. Your main control board may be the issue. Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors. This is proof that the shifter/sensor actuator assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed. I suggest unplug the washer and check the wire connections on the switch. If a meter is available then you can check the resistance (ohms) of the lock motor. Note: After performing the manual test and the lid lock works perfectly, or at least as it is supposed to. You can eliminate that as the problem.If the lock worked in the manual test but doesn't in an actual cycle then I suspect the control board is at fault. A safety feature found on front load washing machine is the door switch and the door lock and strike. On most models, the door switch must be closed and the door lock must be activated before the washer will start. The switch is normally located in the door frame of the washing machine, but may also be part of the door lock assembly. Inspect the strike to make sure that it engages the door lock assembly and that the door remains closed. To check the door switch for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to disconnect the power and remove the front panel. The lid switch on a top load washing machine is a safety device designed to prevent the motor circuit from operating when the lOn some models, the water inlet valve circuit is controlled as well. If the lid switch fails, the washer may not start. The lid switch is normally located beneath the main top with a projection on the lid or a pin attached to the lid that will actuate the switch when the lid is closed. Verify that the switch is being activated mechanically and that any levers or actuators are not damaged or sticking. If the switch is being activated but there is no power being supplied to the motor or water valve circuits, then the switch may be defective The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in God is good and that's why I give free advice.