Top 20 AEG Lavamat 74640 Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

go to the manufactures website and download the user manual and look in the trouble shooting guide for a possible answer if you cant find one I would call back the engineer and ask him to give you an answer as the machine worked before he fitted the new rubber, good luck eric

Most likely you have a control panel failure.

Remove door from washing machine, there' screws back side to remove and replace new glass very simple indeed.

did it sound loud on spin if it did check your bearing as they may be worn and need replacing or your pulley may be damaged

Had a similar problem with our Kenmore front load washer, our grandson was caught leaning on door while it was open and it bent the hinge slightly, this misalignment resulted in the latch mechanism trying to lock the door shut( needed as a safety measure to prevent leakage) but it was unable to do so. Had limited luck with lifting the door while shutting it and holding it closed while pushing the start button,but eventually had to replace hinge. Parts man at service desk also advised not to hang wet heavy items on door (don't know why anyone would want to) as the same thing could happen,also don't try slamming door as that could result in costly latch replacement. Hope this was of some help

Is it old washing machine? One problem could be belt. It could be dropped. If you hear motor spining noise, but drum isnt spining - this is it.If you cant hear anything - motor carbong brushes..If not - electronics problems (semistor or etc). I need more info to help you better.

pressure sensing

????? more info

E40 relates to the door being left open when the programme is started, it maybe that the latch was not pushed over when the door was shut.After the door is closed again the fault should go away. If it does not and you hear alot of clicking from the door lock you may just have a door lock at fault.Code E40 is door not closed, could be a mis-aligned door or faulty door switch.-------------But if door is closing properly and you are confirmed that door is getting properly locked, then other possibility can be gunked filter or blocked drain pump.It requires cleaning internally.The procedure is as follows:--- Towards the bottom right of the machine is a pull-down flap.
Drain the machine - there's a tube at the bottom of the machine
with a plastic plug - you'll see a butterfly handle, pull hard; the plug
is a round ball on the end of a stick.
Unscrew the large diameter thing (pump cover) -
Don't do this before the drain step!!!
Withdraw the filter cylinder and remove any gunge - the
filter port has two ports - the left one is the impellor
pump and the right one is the discharge pipe; feel to ensure
these are not gunged up either.
Reassemble in reverse order - as Haynes say.
Almost every programme necessitates a pump activation to
assure that the machine is empty of water .-----------

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0)
Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.

(If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal suspension is malfunctioning.)

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi, if it doesn't spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.

If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

done this already takes bout 6 hrs if ur competent im vechicle tech so have tools etc u will need brgs seal and probably the spider prob cost about 100 all in ididnt replace spider and now one brg has failed again deciding wether to do again properly or replace ta Nigel

Reset using Off-2-Off.
Tested with Gentle rinse: water OK, but no drum rotation. Tested Short Spin: Pump OK but no rotation.
Opened door (first time) and rotated drum by hand - smooth.
Shut door carefully and tested short spin: OK.
Suspect: door safety switch. or I suggest you look at your instruction manual (or take the link below) and look at the fault bit of the book.

You could perhaps try to follow instructions for the "The washing machine doesn't work" .

Are you able to actually programme the machine? i.e. The display will still show you the programme length etc

It may sound silly, but is the door closed properly etc

Is there a way of resetting the machine, or maybe turn it completely off for a little while, and turn it back on?

If all this doesn't work, i suggest you phone either AEG, or the person/company you got the machine from, and get them to have a look at it.

Also, was it working properly, before it stopped working - i.e. Would it drain properly ?

I hope all this helps you. Source(s): http://www.serviceforce.co.uk/pdfs/U0346...

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(try this!)
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Good luck!
John C

Hi,

It sounds like the timer or motor is causing this problem. The only way to confirm this would be to take some voltage readings with a multimeter. You can also try changing the wash action switch to other settings & see if the motor kicks in, the switch may be bad.
Another chance is the clutch is defective. If this is the case, I would recommend purchasing a new washer because of the cost of the repair.

Hope this helps.

Shane

Hi from Englishman in SW France @13:43 Sat!

Either the machine is not spinning fast enough in the spin cycle (can you tell?) OR some of the water possibly remaining in the washer because the drain motor is unable to drain efficiently.

I would start by checking the state of the drain motor lint tray/filter to see if that is blocked.
It will be (normally) behind the front bottom cover which is likely to be held in place by some plastic screws which turn 45 degrees anticlockwise to undo.

Now- before removing the actual filter cover

POWER OFF AND HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE HAND TO PUT UNDER IT (IF POSSIBLE) OR LOADS OF RAGS!

Undo the cover and pull out the tray and clean it of whatever might be there.
If your water supply is 'hard' and has a lot of calcium in it it will be well worthwhile regularly cleaning with a sachet of propriatory anticalc powder/liquid- we have hard water and I clean every 3 to 4 months.

If you find it impossible to remove the tray/filter email me [email protected] and I will give you more advice on how to (possibly) remove it without (possibly) breaking it!

Cheers,

John C

you just need to mop up the water inside the cabinet to allow the float switch in the base to reset.check there is nothing stopping the float returning to the floor. a small leak from the door seal can cause enough of a leak to trip it . clean the door glass and seal to stop this. or change the door seal.

Frigidaire, Zanussi, AEG, & More....

EFO = Filter Blocked (low flow) and it is accessible from the bottom front of the machine.

1. there is a blockage in the filter or drain hose.takes too long to drain out.
2. over dosing of powder or liquid. again can cause an air lock in the pump which slows the drain pump down.

Check the filter and drain hose and test again. this fault will only come up at the end of a cycle.
You do not need to reset the machine to get rid of the fault code as this is automatically deleted.

Run an empty load with no detergent in an attempt to get rid of the code.

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can be at any angle as long as you dont crimp the hoses