20 Most Recent AEG Lavamat W1050 Front Load Washer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

seems the washheater is out of order

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

I'm sorry to say, this means that the main bearings on the drum have failed. This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machins and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable , and most are) will be about £20 (($30) or so. But its a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Check the drain filter, see if the hose is not clogged (blow it), verify proper operation of the pump and the pressure switch if necessary

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but this forum does not supply parts direct; it's just made up of ordinary guys and gals, probably at home, with experience of addressing problems and giving guidance for free on the web ;-0)
Spares Suppliers On-Line
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make) washer spares' and you should be presented with a number of sources from which you can order. During the process you will be asked for the actual model number.
Good luck,
John C.

The belts are what I would have suspected. Theremaybe some kind of tension device for the belts, if so makes sure the belts aretight.
Check also for any pulleys that are binding. Also you might look at the
drain hose for some obstruction. If something is slowing the flow of
water out of the tub it might affect the spinning speed due to water
still being there

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question!!!!####

if the heater is down to earth it wont start. try disconnecting the element and see if it starts if it does replace the element,

Hello,
It sounds like the bearings are starting to go.The problem is as it is 6 years old the repair job could be expensive,unless you have an extended warranty.It still might be worth getting a quote off one of your local repair dealerships.
Hope this helps.

Follow these steps to replace your door seal:
Disconnect all power to the machine first!!



1 Locate the outer clamp band securing the seal to the door rim on the washing machine and examine it carefully for holes or tears. Many can be prised off with a flat-bladed screwdriver they have a spring system holding them, but some have a tensioning arrangement that has to be loosened.
2 After removing the outer clamp band, locate the inner one securing the seal to the drum and establish how this is secured. It may be necessary to loosen a clip, or you may be able to prise the band off with a flat-bladed screwdriver. Some are like very large Jubilee clips that you have to undo usually from the top.
3 Once the clamp bands have been removed, use both hands to pull the seal away from the inner drum rim. Some machines have a water spout holes that will have to be lined up. Others have a drain holes.
4 Rubbing a drop of washing up liquid into the groove on the door seal/gasket that locates on the drum makes fitting the new seal easier.
5 the new washing machine door seal should be fitted by locating the drain holes at the bottom of the seal first then push it on with both hands working opposite directions towards the top. This is quite hard if you have never done it before.
6 refit the inner band remembering this must be tensioned correctly for it to be water tight.
7 now fit the outer band and the test the machine for any leaks,

All washing machine spares featured in this article are available at apart4u with more video help in our tutorial section.

Information provided is a guide only. aPart4u accepts no liability for any problems occurring whilst attempting any advice shown. If in any doubt about fixing your appliance, always contact a qualified repairer.

Hi,

First of all please get one bearing kit for your system from the link mentioned bellow:

http://www.nettoparts.co.uk/shop/bearing-kit-aeg-5191p.html

Next first try to loosen the Allen key nut at the back of the drum which is often a bit stuck. Must one turn it clockwise to loosen it. This is the way to replace it. You do not need to the whole drum. You might need special tools to do the replacement. Tools: screwdriver, 1/2" socket or spanner, mallet & wood dowel or ail drift to drive out bearings. Remove back of machine (4 screws) . Press drive belt to note tension, then remove motor (2 bolts) and belt. Remove drum pulley (1 bolt). . Remove 'spider' fixings (3 bolts around outer drum), then pull spider off of drum shaft, & out through back of machine. 6. Drive rear bearing out of housing using mallet & drift. Drive front bearing out, which also takes old seal with it. Gently drive new bearings into place using old bearings as drifts. Tap new seal into place, & lubricate seal & shaft front with silicone grease or white synthetic grease spray (from £ shops). Replace spider over shaft in machine, raise & push inner drum to center shaft & help through new bearings. Replace bolts etc. centre the belt on motor pulley & re-tension belt by pushing down on motor before tightening motor bolts.
Please let me know if this does not help else please accept it.

Thank You for contacting Fixya.com

the instructions to remove the drum bearings are as follows:-- 1. Buy Bearing & seal kit (Ebay, about £18 including postage) Tools: screwdriver, 1/2" socket or spanner, mallet & wood dowel or ali drift to drive out bearings. 2. Remove back of machine (4 screws). 3. Press drive belt to note tension, then remove motor (2 bolts) and belt. 4. Remove drum pulley (1 bolt). 5. Remove 'spider' fixings (3 bolts around outer drum), then pull spider off of drum shaft, & out through back of machine. 6. Drive rear bearing out of housing using mallet & drift. 7. drive front bearing out, which also takes old seal with it. 8. Gently drive new bearings into place using old bearings as drifts. 9. tap new seal into place, & lubricate seal & shaft front with silicone grease or white synthetic grease spray (from £ shops). 10. Replace spider over shaft in machine, raise & push inner drum to center shaft & help through new bearings. 11. Replace bolts etc. centre the belt on motor pulley & re-tension belt by pushing down on motor before tightening motor bolts. ------- This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya