Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in Dishwasher - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Just had the same problem, removed the excess water from the drawers, turned off the power, removed the bottom drawer by pushing in the lugs at the bottom of the drawer where it butts up to the drawer front and pulling out the drawer. Then had to mop up with 4 t-towels and half a roll of kitchen roll the water in the bottom of the machine housing. The water gets into the electronics at the rear of the housing and obviously warns you of this by the F1 code?. I removed the white cover over the electronics with a screwdriver by pushing it into a slot then sliding the cover across to the right, it is indicated on the cover how to remove it. I also then removed the screw on top of the PCB (printed circuit board) and lifted up the grey plastic base and wiped under that and the under side of the PCB. The PCB unclips on the left hand end of it and lifts out, try not to pull the cables out though. I then used a hair dryer as suggested by someone else on here to dry out any excess that you could not wipe dry, my daughters Hello Kitty hair dryer didn't last long though, she's not impressed! So try not to stick the dryer right in the housing to avoid overheating it. About 5 minutes did the trick for me, then re-assembled everything, turned it on and hey presto! It worked!!!! Its not that hard, good luck!!!

It is possible the delayed start option has been set by mistake.

The way to cancel that would be to press the power button off and then on.

However, I am assuming this problem is with only one of the two drawers.

But I am not sure how much of the wash cycle is done before it goes to pause, eg. do you hear the water flowing in, do you hear the washer arm moving and throwing water around?

If it does not get to the stage of water coming in but you do hear some sounds as soon as the start button is pressed then it is likely the door seal is not setting properly which causes the dishwasher to stop.

Anything you see on the display or lights (if no LCD display)? Trying cleaning the door seal with a clean damp cloth. If problem still there then you need to get the door seal serviced. It is slightly sophisticated part with seal and two motors which require some expertise to replace.

Happy to guide you if door seal replacement is needed. Post me a comment on what you find.

This is a controller fault and could be due to number of reasons. Either the controller itself is not sensing the sensors or some sensor is faulty. If it is occuring consistently and turning mains power and on is making no difference, then it is something a techniician will have to look at.

If both drawers are having the problem then it is unlikely the drain pump is the problem. You may need to check the blockage in your kitchen drain or if using garbage disposal unit then ensure it is clean and not blocking the drain.

To determine if your pump works, before attempting access from the bottom of the top drawer or from the bottom of lower drawer: You can manually pump the water out by doing the following:
1- Press the Power button to turn off the display.
2- Press the Lock button and then the start button the same tim. Hold them until the display showing up.
3- If the display is not clear with all the characters, press power button to see clear the display.
4- The first display is bL, then Er,Ld..dd, FU, P1, P2...by pressing the Start button to go by the sequence until P2 (drain). If you miss, be patient to continue press and release the start button to get back to P2.
5 When is is at P2, press Lock button to tun on the drain. When you hear the water flowing to the drain, you could pull the top drain to see how the water is draining.
6- When the water is out, press the lock button again to stop it.
7-When it is done, press the Power button to get out of manual mode.

If this is working, then your water is there because you are running the bottom and your air gap allow back flow to the top drawer and or you are running the top and your air gap allows a back flow to the bottom drawer.
Please let me know if this is not the case.

I finally solved this problem by doing the following:
I removed the front plate, this can be done by removing the two round plugs one on each side of the lower front of the washer just above the rack. once you do this the front comes off, then you remove the ground wire. From the front upper right there is a photo sensor in two plastic tube, make sure they are in correctly and not slipped out of position.
My washer, it appears the plastic casing that is holding the circuit board and the sensor broke off on one end, I simply taped it to the main body by using electrical tape and made sure it was secure.
I put everything back and now my washer doesn't stop anymore.

DW60CE dishwasher - E6 fault flood switch activated. After tipping the dishwasher on its side & it releasing its water from its tray, the fault cleared. I removed the bottom cover & inspected its internals for traces of a leak or evidence of leaking. I could follow the calcium or detergent trail from the rear water duct connection near the top feeding sprayer arm, down the back of the dishwasher & into the tray. The lock nut on the duct where it enters through the inside S/S skin had become loose & simply needed to be tightened.

Thank you so much to Greg for his advice. I had pulled out the motor and put back in with no result but after reading his post, I found that the tube from the sump to the pump was blocked and once that was cleared, all good. Saved me the cost of a serviceman as the last dishes that I had washed had fish so the water was rapidly becoming rancid and I had to solve the problem quickly.

check the draw on the sides at the front as the draw sits on runners and there are tabs on the runners at the front which hold the draw on. hold the plastic tabs both sides and slide the draw past the slots on the bottom sides of the draw.

I don't know if this will help. I had to work on Fisher & Paykel two draw dishwasher. The one problem was one draw would work but the other wouldn't. There is one board for each draw and one board in the base. The board in the base seem to be the power supply for the rest of the machine. I don't remember the model number and it has been years ago. Getting to the boards was not easy. I did the swap the two draw boards and the problem didn't move. So whatever the problem was it was in the draw. I found Fisher & Paykel had design the heating element as a resistor to drop the 110 VAC down to a voltage the logic/controller board can use turn to Dc voltage to run board. The problem I found was the heating element had opened. There was no power to run the board. Later there was also a cable problem the confounded the repairman. He had to replace the draw harness. My really big problem is the heating was on the ground side of the logic/controller board. The logic/controller board was on the 110 VAC side. So that if the heating element opened the logic/controller board would be floating up to 110 VAC. So any meter measurement on the board show 110 VAC. Even touching any part of the board and any part of washer you can get zapped. So be careful. It should the other way around so the board is at the ground side and heating element on the high side. If the heat element opened there would be no power to the board would be at ground level and no shock problem.

the top spinner is just clipped on. if you look at it you will see the cut in the plastic and it will just pull off. clean out the spinner and in the hole use some pipe and blow down it. on first cycle it should empty the dirty water out.

At some point the two drawers individual drain hoses are joined using a "Y' type connector. Check this, and everything beyond this point for restrictions or blockage. It sounds like the bottom drawer is pumping its drain water out normally, but some of that water is backing up to the upper drawer. This is an installation or plumbing problem that is external of the dishdrawers.

What item are we talking about? Is this a dresser, a CD player etc. Need make model and serial number etc. Thank you.

Hi Aaron...
You wrote "I had a F1 problem that I cured by blow drying the control board"
I see techs on other sites telling people to "blow dry" the mains filter board (which has the flood sensor and controls lid motor operation) and it always makes me wince.
F1 is a flood condition. All you do by drying out the board is stop the machine from trying to tell you something is wrong with it. There is a reason why the board got wet in the first place. You won't cure anything by simply drying it out if there is an underlying condition causing a leak.
On your dishwasher, as you may or may not be aware, the lid is controlled by two motors that pull the lid down onto the top of the drawer in order to provide a seal. If, for some reason, the lid either does not come down on one or both sides or something is interfering with the lid's mechanical operation, the machine will leak, and the flood sensor will trip. The machine will appear to "go on by itself" and run the drain pump constantly.

The cure is to determine what happened.

Some possibilities:
1. Improper loading:
When someone places a tall dish, utensil, etc in the wrong position, it will "prop" the lid ajar when the lid comes down. A gap of even 1/4" can cause a leak. It is in cases such as this that drying out the mains filter board (yes it is called mains plural) will restore machine operation, as it was a temporary issue that caused the leak (More on this later).

2. Broken hose link support strap:
On older model 603's, there is a nylon strap that guides the hoses and wiring harness as you open and close the drawer. Over time, this strap can break right in the middle. What happens next, is when the drawer is closed, the strap gets caught between the lid and the drawer's edge, causing a leak. This is easy to see if you dis-engage the tub clips on the drawer rails and slide the drawer forward enough to see the strap behind the drawer. In a case such as this you can blow-dry that board all you want; it's not going to do much good, as the machine will leak again as soon as that strap gets caught in the lid. The fix is to replace the broken link support with the updated kit from Fisher Paykel, which is a part number 528437. You can purchase them here:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/ecart/item.php?item_id=242&category_id=58
On double-drawer machines, I always replace both straps, even if only one is broken.

3. Worn or inoperative lid actuator/motor:
As mentioned, the lid is motorized. There are two motors, one on each side of the drawer. They can become worn mechanically, or they can fail electrically or fail to operate because that mains filter board is not sending the signal to one or both motors. The machine's main control board (the one where you select cycles) can also cause a problem.
There should be a detailed tech sheet behind the drawer (lower drawer on double units) that has instructions on how to put the machine in diagnostic mode and you can run the lid motors with the drawer open and check if one is not coming down. And again on older 603, the lid motors can stop working correctly. If they are tan in color, replace them with the new style, which are black in color and have rubber boots over the arms to keep water from running down the shafts and into the motor. Part numbers are 528112 and 528113 and are always changed as a pair. Lid motors can be obtained here:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/ecart/item.php?item_id=240&category_id=58

Bad or damaged Mains Filter Board:
This needs to be read over carefully.
On older 603's there will be a GREY colored plastic cover over that board. This is a tipoff that you have the early model. The underside of that board in the area of the flood sensor is uncoated and the solid-state components are exposed to moisture. Over time, calcified deposits build up around the edge of the board on the side where the flood sensor protrudes. These deposits can cause a "phantom F1' condition where the machine thinks there is a leak but there isn't one. Whenever I speak to a customer on the techline who says "I am sure there is no leak but the F1 is activated" I tell them to examine the underside of the Mains board for these deposits. The other thing to be aware of with regard to "blow drying" the board, is that it will warp and sag in the center and this can break the tiny solder joints and cause all kinds of problems for you. The most recent version of this part has a nice, thick almost rubberized coating over the bottom of the board and it's much more durable that the first versions. it also comes with a WHITE colored plastic cover and this is how you can tell if you have newest version of the board. You always should replace the grey cover with the white one. You can get the updated part here:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/ecart/item.php?item_id=248&category_id=58

I hope this info is useful to you.

You also need to repair the solder link (over-temperature fuse) in the heater plate (or replace the whole heater plate). The drawer control board gets its power via that link.

check your kitchen drain as it might be blocked or if you have a garbage disposal (kitchen insinkerator) make sure it is cleared before running the dishwasher.

I drilled holes in the soap block, covered it in water - 6 hrs later it came out when I tried to drill more holes - be sure to clean the drill bit.

check the waste hose is not kinked or blocked. otherwise replace the rotor at the bottom of the drawer. this can be accessed by unscrewing the panel at the bottom of the drawer.

Have you removed the drawer? Checked the rollers? Reinserted the drawer correctly?

most likely the rota motor is stuck. check u-tube for easy removal, clean tips on checking for best deal for replacement part, I found Fisher & Paykel the best price, £50.00 ish