20 Most Recent Samsung DMR77LHS Tall Tub Dishwasher Questions & Answers

Mine make a grinding noise also when the wash cycle starts. I had a repair guy over fixing my fridge and he said it was the washer motor. My machine has only been in use for 1-2 yrs. Other owners say that the tabs on the top rack break off and get lodged in the machine. hope this helps a little.

I would replace door seal and unit definitely does not need to be leaning forward. Leaning a little back is best.

OE error code is an Outlet Error. That has to do with the drain itself. It can come up when the unit is draining slowly, it has nothing to do with water-level really. I would suggest makign sure that your drain hose is not crimped / crushed / or obstructed first before going onto other problems.

Most likely a pump fault if no external water leak.

Hi,
The main PSU is part of the control board. You may be lucky to find an aged fuse to replace, but it's more likely a power transistor that's fried.

Unplug and remove the control board to see which bit's toasted. Chances are it's cheaper to replace the control board - but check the probable cause - the motors are not short circuited.

Try unplugging the unit for a few minutes. Then plug back in. If not try the Power button. I have an SE code (drainage problem) and my machine stops running altogether.

I had the same problem. Mine also 2yrs old. Issue started when washing dishes and it did not complete the grind and drain cycle. I tossed in 3 efferdent tablets that I use to clean all kinds of household grim with; that stuff works great on thermos mugs so I figured it might work to clean out any cloggings here too. It sat for about 15mins and then I tried to drain it again and it finally unclogged itself and now it works fine again. Probably something is getting clogged and not self-cleaning. I tried to completely disassemble the insides afterwards and you do not want to know the junk I found lingering under some of these parts which was not a good sign for the engineering group who designed this thing. Anyways I cleaned everything best I could but the issue came back a month later now again. I'm thinking it is in the pump. I plan to disassemble the pump and check it out because it too has been making a lot more noise than it did originally - its fighting something - and maybe going bad. Looking at the parts online with a new pump being around $200 its probably not worth the risk. I'll buy a new washer before I invest that much. Probably go back to my fav Kitchenaid - that was a great washer; never had an issue and it had a grinder too but was more expensive. Hope the efferdent idea gets you going again.

I don't know about a E5 error; are you sure it's not a 5E error? That means a drain error or "water not draining" error. Check the drain pump and drain hose for an obstruction. If that's okay, and the dishwasher drains water, then you probably have a bad ECS sensor. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

trace out the water line to the soloniod and see of the wires are connected NOTE ! make sure the power is off PRIOR to taking this action !!!!!

That's an over-level water error. The case-break assembly is bad and needs to be replaced. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

try this. I have a similar problem and now have the LE code flashing. I saw this advice and am going to try the fix now.

You are barking up the wrong tree. Here is the real fix for the LE problem.First disconnect all power ( power supply, circuit breaker, wiring etc) to the machine. Disconnect all tubing to the machine ( drainage pipe and braided hose feed) Then you need to take out the dishwasher, turn it over and then remove the large white sensor tray that will expose the leakage sensor held on by 2 screws. Remove the screws and dry up the sensor tips (4) with a dry towel and dry up the tray all around as well. Replace the tray and re connect all tubing and power. You're problem should be solved and you just saved yourself a pile of money in service repair bill. M.D.

Hi, whenever a fuse of that magnitude, or any fuse really, Blows, you should never just replace it, as to have any device, blow a fuse, trip a breaker, requires a major fault, they do NOT blow spontaneously ever. So you have had a major short circuit inside your machine, at some stage, usually this is in, the main Controller Board, most likely the bridge rectifier has gone short circuit, or a capacitor, But it could be anything even the motor?anything like this then will blow the fuse. The reason the fuse blow is to prevent a fire and explosion or both, as if an unlimited amount of current could be drawn, it would be catastrophic, so a fuse blows to disconnect the power. The Cause of this MUST be discovered before one ever attempts to replace the fuse. Luckily, it seems in this case the fault has blown an open circuit on the main Board, and this has prevented any further trouble.
Really after such an event as this one should engage the services of a professional, as anyone untrained may mis something that later on my even prove fatal. Get this unit looked at by a professional service person, ask for a 'Quote" if concerned about costings, then you can make an informed decision as to what to do.

Your support site is below,
http://www.samsung.com/us/support/detail/supportPrdDetail.do?menu=SP06&prd_ia_cd=&prd_mdl_cd=&prd_mdl_name=DMR77LHS

Make sure your supply line to the dishwasher isn't kinked or blocked in some way. Also, make sure your house's water pressure is about 30 to 70 psi. If everything is fine on the supply side, then it's most likely the water inlet valve. Try removing the supply line to the water inlet valve and see if you have grit and whatnot clogging the screen on the valve. If so, try to clean out the screen and re-hook everything back up and give it a test. If you still have low water levels, you'll need to replace the water inlet valve. Good luck!