Kenmore Elite HE5t Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

WASHER WILL NOT START: Power If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary. Lid Switch The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch.. If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start. Door Interlock The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself. Timer Knob Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly. Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on. The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good! All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced Lastly CONTROL BOARD If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures.

Check the element, level switch pipework and the drum motor. If its a few minutes into the cycle then most likely one of these

check the hose,i found one from overloading and the tub going off balance that the hose rubbed up against tub causing a small hole in the tube,one more thing you said you blew through the tube up to the sensor,you want to remove the tube from the sensor and blow down to the tub,soap can build up and clog the part that the tube connects to,happens alot on ge top load washers also try running it in diagnostics,alot of these problems are from using to much soap,you should be using only 2 tablespoons of soap that's it,without being there i would run it through diagnostics and see what you find.also like i said to much soap messes up these machines even ruins the spider gear inside the tub,you can try running the washer with hot water and a cup of white vinegar and see if it cleans out the suds and helps you with this code.

The drum bearing is likely frozen up.

SUD means there are too many soap suds in the washer. Are you using a front load approved detergent? Are you using the correct amount? or slightly less is better.

The error code F29 indicates a problem with the door lock assembly. I recommend replacing the door lock assembly part number 8183270 searspartsdirect.com Please see the instructions provided below. If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services . SAFETY NOTICE: Be sure to disconnect power to the appliance before performing any repairs. If you are not comfortable with doing any voltage checks that might be recommended, please contact your local service provider for repairs. Be aware that there could be sharp edges inside the appliance that could cause cuts or other injuries to yourself or others. http://www.shopyourway.com/m/questions/1077653

HOPE THIS HELPS

NO HOT WATER CHECK THE WATER INLET VALVE AS THE HOT COILS MAY HAVE GONE BAD U CAN CHECK FOR VOLTAGE AND FOR OHMS.. ALSO MORE LIKELY CHECK UR WATER TEMPERATURE SWITCH IT MAY HAVE GONE BAD , USE A METER FOR OHMS CHECK MAY ALSO WANT TO CHECK UR THERMISTOR ON MODELS WHICH HAVE ONE

You may have 2 issues here the leak from a bad or worn hose somewhere or a bad water pump seal. and the wet clothes as a result of a bad clutch break assembly, a loose worn belt, bad motor coupler etc depending if direct or belt drive

Needs new gaskets or seals.

check fusebox and power plug fuse

TOO many suds,use less soap

Do not take this as definitive answer! I am not an expert. A F01 error is indicative that the Central Control Unit cannot get instructions from the EEPROM. If you have not already done so, unplug the washer for a full 2 minutes to clear any instructions in memory, then plug it back in. If you still have a F01 error I suspicion that it is a bad CCU board. You can try to run the diagnostic on page 8 of the service manual but I do not think it will run if it is a bad CCU board.

If the door swings smooth after it is opened it is not the hinge. In most cases it will be on of the 2 parts of the door latch. Look at the door first. There should be a plastic pointed arrow looking part sticking out. See if any of it broke off or got chipped. That is an easy part to change. If not that, it will probably the door latch switch which is the part the pointed part goes into. You will probably need a tech to change it. The hard part is getting to it which in some cases involves unhooking the door boot wire retainer on the outside edge of the cabinet.

Run a cycle with some bleach.

possibly door switch, check first! if not main board replacement, is it under warranty?

first thing you want to do is remove the lower front panel make sure noting obstructs the drain pump

Hello Shannon; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician. Code F20 also stands for pressure switch. You have a incomplete model number so I am not sure if this is the correct switch. Substitution: W10514214 - $48.00 This is just inside the top cover, right hand corner. The diagram is on the following link. Plug in your model number. Water Filters Lawn Garden Appliance Parts

I would put in some bleach and clothes that can handle it without damage and run a wash cycle. Leave the door open when you are done using the machine, or at least un-latched. There are commercial products, but bleach will do the same thing. You have stuff growing on the gizzards inside the drum, and bleach will likely kill them. They like dark & humid places.. guess what... that's your washer with the door kept latched.

could be that the new part didn't click into place properly.