Kenmore Elite 21086 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Your water pressure switch could be not working. go to www.sears.com/appliancerepair.com Check your agitator belt also. You can also call sears and they will let you talk to a technician whom can offer more help.SM63MK

The shocks are going bad.

Could you please describe the problem you are having a little better?

Honestly it could be a few things, and some of them very technical in detail to the point honestly I would call a proffesional in on it. Its possible the timer may have a short in it and its running ahead of its self. Its also possible that the water level switch is starting to go and gives the machine the go ahead to start washing. It could also be the water valve sticking and therefore the machine is operating normally but the valve continues to fill .And the list goers on and on. Unless your real familiar with that specific model thats one I would leave to the pro's. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

The original manual has a troubleshooting guide that has this for the ob code:
"Off Balance Is the load unbalanced? Redistribute the load. Cloase lid and press START. "

Hope this helps.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(no promises but try this!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Long Drain
*Check the water inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.

CE stands for "Communications Error".

Try this site for more detailed explanation:

http://www.applianceaid.com/calypso-codes.html

Hi
First try to clean the drain pump assembly, check this video on how to clean it:

Hope this helps...please post back with its complete model no. for further assistance.
Daniel

Sounds like the coupling between the motor and the transmissionis broken or stripped.

You'll need to remove the hoses to the pump to retrieve your change.

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The F2 error code on your microwave oven is a membrane failure.
It is recommended that you replace the membrane first & if you still have problems to replace the control board.

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1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




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In the detergent drawer. Top Left of unit.

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1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
7. Locate the water pump. It is a small plastic pump with two hoses connected to it, directly under the front of the wash tub. It is advisable at this point to drain the residual water from the wash tub. This will save you a lot of clean up time later. Here's a helpful HINT: If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall. Connect the shop vac to the end of the drain line and pull a vacuum on it. This will quickly drain the residual water and leave you with little to no mess. If you do not own a shop vac, remove the lower hose from the pump and place a pan or a bunch of old towels under it & allow to drain.
8. Remove the water pump by removing the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and remove both hoses. HINT: This is a good time to inspect the drain lines for any debris that may have gotten lodged in the lines.
9. Install new water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly on the motor shaft. Make sure you re-install the retaining clips correctly. Insert the keyed end first, then turn and snap them in place over the pump.
10. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
11. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
12. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
13. Reinstall console.
NOTE: This water pump IS NOT serviceable. Meaning, it does not come apart. You can, at times, manage to dislodge items that have become stuck in the pump by slowly rotating the shaft backwards (with the pump removed from the washer) while pulling the object free. Sometimes this works, but sometimes the seal becomes damaged. Panty hose, underwear and the under wire from bras are notorious for getting stuck in these pumps. HINT: It is STRONGLY recommended that you use small nylon garment bags while washing some of your smaller items like this.

Check the Vibration damper rods to be sure that...
1. They are there and mount is solid.
2. If they are broken in 1/2.
3. The plastic knuckle mounts are not missing/broken.
4. There is oil in the shock absorber/spring section of the rods.

Also - there are suspension springs on the bottom of the tub that could be broken and/or missing.

Replace/repair as necessary.

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PF - Power Failure - PF error code indicates a power failure during the dryer's cycle. Press and HOLD start to continue the cycle, or press off/pause to clear display.

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Magnetic reed switch on left side below the gray rubber bumper, shown here...



http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=1033130&PPStack=1



Release two spring clips in front between main top and front panel using putty knife. Lift the main top and access the left and right door locks here.



To access and see if the magnet is in place, remove the dispenser from lid.

Gently pry the bottom of the plastic inner lid toward you then down. This will let you see if the magnet is in place on the right front corner of the inner lid.



http://fixitnow.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/09/washer_switch.JPG



Seems to be a common problem with this washer. Apparently, the lid isn't completely watertight and allows water to get into this switch corroding the contacts and the wires.



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SL = Suds Lock

SL is a suds lock code it can be caused by the drain pump not draining the water, too much detergent, non HE detergent, or extra heavy loads, try running it empty, if code persits it is a computer/main controller/timer failure

The control should flash this error code if it cannot detect the lid switch opening and closing properly.
This error code may also be used if there is a disagreement between the motor and machine controllers on the state of the lid switch.

The control should not allow the unit to run in this condition. This code will also appear if the user presses the START key while the lid is open.

Open the lid or press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display

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The F1 error code on this washer indicates a Primary Control Board failure.



It is likely that the machine control board will need to be replaced to correct this problem.



The part number for the machine control board is undetermineable because you have not provided me with the exact model # of your washer.



The procedure for replacing the machine control board is provided HERE

LINK: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wfgstgtftbtkrrdxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/gfsfgfsgqxgfqtqtgwf/1/1303472/5961857/image55806img-or.gif



NOTE: Be sure to unplug the washer to disconnect electrical power before accessing internal components.



There is a slight possibility that a problem with the pressure switch hose could be causing this problem.

A pinched or twisted air hose can cause this fault code.

When you open the console, check the air hose connected to the pressure switch on the machine control board.

If it is pinched or crimped, I recommend rerouting the hose to resolve this problem.

This may fix your problem without replacing the control board.



NOTE: You may want to check for this condition before ordering the control board. Most electronic control boards cannot be returned for a refund or credit.



If you find no apparent problems with the air hose on the pressure switch, then replacing the machine control board on this washer should correct your problem. There is a risk involved in replacing this part yourself.

As noted above, you could have a problem with the air pressure hose that is not apparent upon your initial inspection. A service technician would normally need to properly and thoroughly diagnose this problem before replacing the control board.





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