20 Most Recent Kenmore Elite 21086 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

If you have already removed the outer washplate, the inner wash plate should just lift off the leveler and u-joint. The washplate dome refers to the center cone that fits on top of the outer wash plate. This piece comes off by inserting a screwdriver in the slots along the sides and gently prying to release the locking tabs. The mounting bolts that secure the outer wash plate also secure the inner wash plate to the u-joint assembly. There is a seal under the inner wash plate that may be holding it on. I don't know of anything else that would be holding it in place. Searspartsdirect.com has an excellent exploded view diagram of the wash plate and components that you may refer to provide you with a perspective on how everything fits together. I hope you find some of this information helpful. Please post back and let me know if you are still having problems.

PS You may have to resort to using a rubber mallet to lightly tap on the inner wash plate to knock it free.

Yes I did. It was the lid switch. It was a pain in the rear to fix but yes we got it. Thanks.

the compressor is out of coolant/freon.u should not run it if the compressor is too hot to touch

maybe its gotten low on freon...

FL" flashes if any overfill condition occurs. This condition occurs when excessive water in the tub causes the overfill switch to trip. This could just be a fluke, or you could have a possible bad pressure switch that is not shutting off the water supply correctly. In addition, fill valves have been known to short out causing water to constantly fill in the wash tub. Lastly, your household water pressure could be too low and won't shut the fill valves off properly. Inlet water pressure should be a minimum of 10-20 psi. With an overfill condition, the beeper repeats a warning every 10 seconds with no time-out. The pump is cycled in drain mode for 30 seconds on, 30 seconds off until the overfill switch resets or power is discontinued to the unit. Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display. I hope some of this leads you in the right direction.

replace timer

spin cycle hangs up at the beginning of of start have to advance dial to start. at each cycle.

If it is top loading one, you use powders for 'top loading machines'. If yours is a front loader pl use powders for 'front loading machines'. It makes a big difference in cleaning.

"LF" is a "LONG FILL" error. This will occur if water fill time exceeds 10 minutes. I don't know why this would pop up at the end of a cycle. Normally this is associated with filling at the beginning of a cycle. There is also an "FL" error, which is an "OVERFILL" error. This is normally associated with a problem with either the control board or wiring harness. This normally occurs when there is an open circuit between pins 1 and 3 on P17 of the control board. That one is a little more involved and usually requires replacement of the control board, wiring harness, or both. If you, indeed, have an "LF" error I would check your water source coming in. Check your fill hoses for kinks or obstructions, first. Then, turn the water supply off and remove the hoses from the back of the machine. Place one end of each hose inside the wash tub and turn both water supply lines back on to make sure you have good water flow coming through the hoses. Replace the hoses if they show signs of bulging, cracks, leaking and/or restricted water flow. Turn water back off and check the fill valve inlet ports on the back of the washer for accumulations of sediments in the screens. It doesn't take much to restrict water flow. You can clean the screens with a cotton swab. If you check everything and still have problems with the error code popping up, I would replace the fill valve. It's an easier fix and less expensive than a control board. If you decide to replace the valve, it is located under the console on your washer, I believe. It's fairly simple with a couple of screws to remove on the console and a couple of connectors and hoses on the valve to remove. Make sure you unplug the machine and turn off the water supply before attempting. I hope you find this advice helpful. Let me know if this works for you.

Can anyone tell me how to turn on this .machine plese?

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If you have a button labeled lock, press and hold for 3 to 5 seconds. If you don't, try holding each button (one at a time) to find the right button. Rarely you may have to press two buttons simultaneously (they are usually marked with a line connecting the names with a little lock symbol). If you have the actual model number, you can go here http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals and look up the proper key press.

One of the things to try is get a Y connector for the machine. Hook both ends of the Y to the washer at the hot and cold, then connect the last part to the pure wash. The HF error is HOT FLOW so it is not seeing any hot water pressure. The actual temperature should not be an issue. Also if you have too much water pressure you wont see the bubbles. If that happens just start turning down the cold water valve on the connection to the pure water unit until you see bubbles in the viewing window. I ams sceptical about these machines because you have to reduce the surface tension of water in order for it to clean, that is partly the job of heated water and laundry soap. Also if there is an ozone generator in that unit, there is a consumable part because ozone needs electrolysis to be generated. I cant help but wonder where the hydrogen goes when it is generated.