20 Most Recent Kenmore Elite 21086 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




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In the detergent drawer. Top Left of unit.

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1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
7. Locate the water pump. It is a small plastic pump with two hoses connected to it, directly under the front of the wash tub. It is advisable at this point to drain the residual water from the wash tub. This will save you a lot of clean up time later. Here's a helpful HINT: If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall. Connect the shop vac to the end of the drain line and pull a vacuum on it. This will quickly drain the residual water and leave you with little to no mess. If you do not own a shop vac, remove the lower hose from the pump and place a pan or a bunch of old towels under it & allow to drain.
8. Remove the water pump by removing the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and remove both hoses. HINT: This is a good time to inspect the drain lines for any debris that may have gotten lodged in the lines.
9. Install new water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly on the motor shaft. Make sure you re-install the retaining clips correctly. Insert the keyed end first, then turn and snap them in place over the pump.
10. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
11. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
12. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
13. Reinstall console.
NOTE: This water pump IS NOT serviceable. Meaning, it does not come apart. You can, at times, manage to dislodge items that have become stuck in the pump by slowly rotating the shaft backwards (with the pump removed from the washer) while pulling the object free. Sometimes this works, but sometimes the seal becomes damaged. Panty hose, underwear and the under wire from bras are notorious for getting stuck in these pumps. HINT: It is STRONGLY recommended that you use small nylon garment bags while washing some of your smaller items like this.

Check the Vibration damper rods to be sure that...
1. They are there and mount is solid.
2. If they are broken in 1/2.
3. The plastic knuckle mounts are not missing/broken.
4. There is oil in the shock absorber/spring section of the rods.

Also - there are suspension springs on the bottom of the tub that could be broken and/or missing.

Replace/repair as necessary.

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PF - Power Failure - PF error code indicates a power failure during the dryer's cycle. Press and HOLD start to continue the cycle, or press off/pause to clear display.

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Magnetic reed switch on left side below the gray rubber bumper, shown here...



http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=1033130&PPStack=1



Release two spring clips in front between main top and front panel using putty knife. Lift the main top and access the left and right door locks here.



To access and see if the magnet is in place, remove the dispenser from lid.

Gently pry the bottom of the plastic inner lid toward you then down. This will let you see if the magnet is in place on the right front corner of the inner lid.



http://fixitnow.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/09/washer_switch.JPG



Seems to be a common problem with this washer. Apparently, the lid isn't completely watertight and allows water to get into this switch corroding the contacts and the wires.



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SL = Suds Lock

SL is a suds lock code it can be caused by the drain pump not draining the water, too much detergent, non HE detergent, or extra heavy loads, try running it empty, if code persits it is a computer/main controller/timer failure

The control should flash this error code if it cannot detect the lid switch opening and closing properly.
This error code may also be used if there is a disagreement between the motor and machine controllers on the state of the lid switch.

The control should not allow the unit to run in this condition. This code will also appear if the user presses the START key while the lid is open.

Open the lid or press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display

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The F1 error code on this washer indicates a Primary Control Board failure.



It is likely that the machine control board will need to be replaced to correct this problem.



The part number for the machine control board is undetermineable because you have not provided me with the exact model # of your washer.



The procedure for replacing the machine control board is provided HERE

LINK: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wfgstgtftbtkrrdxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/gfsfgfsgqxgfqtqtgwf/1/1303472/5961857/image55806img-or.gif



NOTE: Be sure to unplug the washer to disconnect electrical power before accessing internal components.



There is a slight possibility that a problem with the pressure switch hose could be causing this problem.

A pinched or twisted air hose can cause this fault code.

When you open the console, check the air hose connected to the pressure switch on the machine control board.

If it is pinched or crimped, I recommend rerouting the hose to resolve this problem.

This may fix your problem without replacing the control board.



NOTE: You may want to check for this condition before ordering the control board. Most electronic control boards cannot be returned for a refund or credit.



If you find no apparent problems with the air hose on the pressure switch, then replacing the machine control board on this washer should correct your problem. There is a risk involved in replacing this part yourself.

As noted above, you could have a problem with the air pressure hose that is not apparent upon your initial inspection. A service technician would normally need to properly and thoroughly diagnose this problem before replacing the control board.





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If you experience a problem where the washer does not drain and the drain pump does not run at all, here's the information you need to replace the drain pump:

Symptom: PUMP IS NOT RUNNING, NOT DRAINING AT ALL.

1. Unplug the washer while servicing inside the unit.
2. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the three 7mm screws under the bottom edge of the panel. HINT: Use a couple of blocks of wood to prop up the front feet of the washer to gain better access to the screws. Once the screws are removed the panel should drop down, and then pull off. If the panel becomes stuck, a slight tap on either side will dislodge it.
3. Locate the drain pump. It will be located directly under the wash tub (it is the only pump this washer has).
4. There is an access removal cover on the pump that can be removed to clean out the trap. Sometimes objects get caught in the pump impeller and stop it from running. We're going to assume that you have already done this and that the pump no longer runs. It is strongly recommended that you remove all residual water from the wash tub & drain line at this point or you will have about a gallon or so inside your washer and on the floor to clean up.
5. HINT: Here's a helpful way of quickly removing the residual water. If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum with the shop vac. This will empty the wash tub, pump and drain lines. If you don't own a shop vac, grab a bunch of old towels and open the access on the pump slowly so that it comes out at a trickle. Allow the towels to soak up the majority of the water. Close the access and stop the water if you need to get additional towels.
6. Place the drain hose back in the standpipe (IMPORTANT - DO NOT FORGET!).
7. Locate the electrical connection to the pump and disconnect.
8. Now locate the two drain lines and remove them. The hose clamps can be released by squeezing with a pair of pliers. NOTE: I would not recommend removing the hose from the bottom of the wash tub unless you really have to. This one can be difficult at times to get back on.
9. Remove the torx type screw at the front center of the pump and it should slide right out of the mounting grooves on the bottom of the washer case.
10. Your new pump comes with several adapters to place on the feet of the pump in order for it to properly fit your washer. These are rubber bushings that help get rid of vibration and noise. If you become confused, there should be installation instructions that come with your new pump. You can also look at the pump you just removed to see how the bushings are mounted.
11. Reinstall the drain lines to the pump. HINT: It is much easier to do this with the pump still OUT, rather than installing it. When you squeeze the clamps to open them up, make sure you slide the clamp completely over the hose AND the inlet/outlet tubes on the pump housing in order to get a good seal.
12. Reinstall pump by sliding the feet of the pump into the mounting grooves on the bottom of the washer case. Tighten the center screw and reattach the electrical connection.
13. With the bottom panel still off, plug the washer back in and select the following on the operator console - DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN, and then press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the same button). "C00" will show on the console display as the washer begins diagnostics mode.
14. Check the drain pump for leaks as the washer fills. The pump is gravity filled and will hold water even it is not pumping. Allow washer to run through diagnostics until it begins the wash tub tumble cycle.
15. At this point, you can stop the diagnostics procedure by pressing PAUSE/CANCEL 2 times. The drain pump is supposed to energize and begin to drain.
16. If the pump works normal and there are no leaks detected, reinstall panel and tighten screws.


CAUTION: Use care when reaching inside the washer case not to damage the small wire harness that runs along the front of the machine.

NOTE: It is normal to have residual water left inside the wash tub under the wash basket. This is why it is important to leave the door ajar when not in use so this water does not become sour.

NOTE: My initial symptoms describe a drain pump that is NOT running. It is actually possible for the drain pump to be running and STILL not drain. If the pump impeller becomes damaged, or if the motor shaft is stripped, the pump will run, but will not drain properly.

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It appears your timer/main controller has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




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This is copper oxidation.

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First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.


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Either the balance sensor is stopping full RPMs - or the motor controller board itself.

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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://beta.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.24942300&pathTaken=partSearch&prst=0&shdMod=110.24942300

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

This problem points to a couple of places:


First, I'd pull the agitators and check for worn or damaged splines inside the agitator or on the agitator shaft. Also check that the Agitator Dogs aren't worn / damaged.

Following is a description of how to take the agitators out.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the agitator and shaft are OK, the problem may be in the transmission.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and service manual for top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

I'd also look at the troubleshooting section of the manual.


Starting at page 10, you'll see a description of how the transmission changes from agitate to spin mode.

The key (and likely problem) is the "agitator spring".

The spring holds the agitate gear down so that the two sets of splines on the agitate gear are connected and the agitate rack can turn the agitators.

See the following Whirlpool parts list for a blow-up of the transmission and how the various gears and springs connect.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

See the following for how to remove the transmission and clutch.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Tearing apart the transmission is a bit messy but if the problem is the spring or agitate cams, it's a lot less expensive to fix than a $170 transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover and drain the oil.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Carefully remove the clip that holds the main Spin Gear on and remove it.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

Check the spring, Agitate Cams and the cams in the Neutral Drain Assembly.

Re-assembly is obviously the reverse of taking it apart.

In answer to your other questions:

If you're reasonably comfortable with tools you can fix it yourself.

When we had a problem with ours, we ended up spending less than $30 replacing the agitate cams, neutral drain assembly and oil instead of $170 for a transmission. It was worth fixing.

As an aside, tearing the washer apart will give you the opportunity to completely clean it.

Dont mix lint shedding clothes with the others in a wash.

On many dishwashers there are secondary fuses located near the power hook up. Check you owners manual and see if you model is equiped this would be like the reset button on a garbage disposal. If this is not the case look for a loose ground wire often time these piece of equipment will not operate unless there is a ground connection. Lastly, these sudden abrupt failures are often a sign that something is wrong on a larger scale, look into leaks that may cause a short or abuse that has caused the issue.

HI. the internal components that make up the agitator should be inspected for damage.

The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction. Another issue that might cause this disruption is the Motor coupler.

Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.

Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.

There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.

Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.

**(((If the motor couple is in good condition, replace the agitator components and clutch assembly as well.)))

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.

We had the same problem:

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

Sounds like a timer. Your timer is sticking