Top 20 Kenmore Elite 20972 Questions & Answers

Did you check the filter or drain the pump and make sure you put something on the bottom when you. Drain the pump that was happening to me.

What is the model number of your unit?

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

You will need to remove the unit and check the power to the processor, if there is a power fault it can be checked using a multimeter. Also if there is moisture , you must dry the unit as it can cause malfunction.

Try putting a cup of amonia in with your detergent,when you wash.

Hi

I believe that everything else is fine rather it is the thermal fuse that is located inside the rear panel to the exhaust duct that is bad and should be replaced. If you want you can test this fuse for continuity and if it is bad then it should be replaced, as it cannot be reset. If the fuse is fine then it can be due to the control board that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

I assume you are having problems disconnecting the water tube as the doors just come off after bolts are removed. To release the water pipe to the door do this, push in on the blue end of the connector and pull on the hose at the same time, it will then come out of the quick connect connector

If your machine has 2 water hoses connected check to see if both water valves are connected and switched on, if so the you may have a faulty cold water valve. If you have only 1 water hose then the cold water valve on the twin or triple valve is faulty. You can change these easily buy removing the top panel and removing the valve, usually only 2 screws. Hope this helps.

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

You will get a manual at WWW.managemyhome.com

Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

it sounds like the drum bearings are wearing out,,you can have new bearings fitted but its not very cheap to get the fixed,,,the way to look at it is this,,how old is your washer? how many years life is left in it? and what the next thing to go wrong with it? so is it worth spending good cash on patching it up or spending a bit more on a new washer?

1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




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I need to replace the lid switch on a Kenmore 80 series top load washer with the model #11082980120. How do I get the lid off?

this could be due to blockage @pump or the motor wont spin if water not pumped out ..Check filter/clear pump.please leave me me feedback.

check the drain hoses from the wash tub all the way to the drain for kinks or obstructions,then check the pump body for damaged impellers or debris inside such as coins, etc

This problem is very simple, inexpensive and easy to repair.

Whirlpool manufactured washers use a split agitator design. The upper portion is called the auger, while the bottom is called the agitator. Between these components is a agitator cam assembly. This problem is commonly caused by worn agitator dogs or the agitator cam assembly. The following link explains what the dogs are and how to replace them:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608577-replacing_agitator_dogs

The part number is included in the link provided. You can purchase replacements at pcappliancerepair.com for about $5. For a little more you can purchase the entire cam replacement kit, which includes the cam, the thrust bearing, and the dogs for about $11 or $12.


NOTE: You can refer to the excellent exploded view parts diagrams the web site has to offer for assistance. Whirlpool also recommends the application of a little grease on the thrust washer. The part number for their recommended grease is AP3098553.

The special tool that you need to use to get the recessed agitator bolt off is a 3/8" to 1/2" rachet adapter. You can purchase one at any hardware store if you don't have one.

If you have any questions about this repair, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate along the wash tub opening under the lid) and let me know. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: DO NOT overtighten the agitator bolt. This can cause damage to the plastic, or restrict the agitator movement. Tighten until snug only.

Check the operation of the drain pump and the rest of the drain system. Lay the drain hose out near the floor (put the end in a pan or bucket) to see if it will gravity drain). It must drain to get to the spin cycle. Hope this helps!

yes that is how some parts are plus it is like a two hour job

Un plug it and remove the rear dust cover. On the back side to your left is the blower/filter housing. To your right is the heating element and limits. On the filter/blower housing is a small white component about an inch long with two wires and it is mounted with one screw. This is the duct fuse. The wires are small because they are connected to the door switch. When that blower has a lint restriction that fuse blows. This kills the door circuit and it is the same as if you opened the door. The dryer stops and stays stopped until you take steps to correct the overheating by cleaning out the lint that is causing the air movement restrictions. The following page is supplimental info, repair manuals, and repair pictures:
Dryer Problems and solutions
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61