20 Most Recent Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Buy it in the US or Canada online and pay for shipping

check filter

check the pump for a blockage ........... cheers

The problem with the new washing machines, is that they dump 20-22 gallons of water in 4-5 seconds. This amount is far more than the garden hose test will submit the drain to. Here are a number of solutions, I hope that one of these will help you.

#1 As mentioned above, you can restrict the flow of the drain pipe. I recommend a 3/4" x 6" brass nipple, or a 1/2" x 6" brass nipple, depending on your specific situation. The brass nipple will not corrode like a galvanized nipple.

#2 There is also a rubber cap that you attach to the drain pipe that fits around the drain hose tightly.

#3 Some situations might require that you have to raise your drain pipe. It is recommended that it be at least 36". This allows for gravity to assist the drain.

#4 Some situations will require that the drain pipe be increase in diameter. Older plumbing applications were installed using 1 1/2" piping. With the newer washing machine discharge volume, the 1 1/2" pipes will not support the discharge. Your drain line will need to be changed to 2". This option will be one of the more costly fixes, depending on the amount of line that needs to be changed.

#5 Some plumbing installations installed without a p-trap will need to be changed. The p-trap keeps sewer gas from coming back into the house. It also allows for a smooth transition into the drain line. Any restrictions in the drain line (i.e. ells, tees,) will cause the soap in the gray water to foam up which will cause the drain line to slowly back up.

I hope these solutinons help.

I would suspect the drive belt, drum bearings or support spider and shaft. It is common for the drum support spider to corrode and fracture which usually leads to bearing failure, this causes the belt to slip and therefore not spin out all the water. If you open the door and grab the drum ,try lifting up and down it should have little to no play . If I am correct they are usually not worth fixing unless under warranty or you are in love with the machine.

If the machine has a "clean washer" setting, run that with 2/3 cup bleach only (no soap). If it doesn't have a specific setting to clean the machine, run a small load with hot water and use 2/3 cup bleach, no soap. If you're asking how to avoid the problem altogether, you'd most likely need to install a water softener, or water filter.

I don't know about your problem specifically, but my washer wouldn't click on. After I set the cycle and pushed start, it just clicked but not on. It turns out that the mother board wires have a loose connect at that particular spot. The service man, not a Sears since they couldn't make it there for a month, unplugged the machine, opened the lid (screws on the top back) and pulled out and re plugged some wires. When he tried to start it again, it worked perfectly. Occasionally it will do the same thing, so I UNPLUG the machine, take the back off and wiggle the wires (I know which ones they are by now), put the lid back on, plug in, and wala, she works. Like I said, this doesn't address your problem specifically, but it seems the wires in the mother board tend to rattle loose. I hope this is an easy fix for you!! I was relieved. Sears may have sold me a new mother board at the tune of $??? That service call was a year ago and, although it is sometimes annoying, I haven't had to purchase any parts.

I also got the SUDS error followed by F35 many times. I replaced the analog water level switch, Wirlpool part number W10156252, and the problem went away. The part is located against the back right corner of the top of the washer after removing the top cover. The part cost $62.99 + $12.95 express shipping from ApplianceZone.net. I have the Kenmore HE3t Steam Washer, model number 110.46752 700 front loader. I was able to run about 6 loads of laundry by unplugging the washer, waiting about 5 minutes, the re-plugging and re-starting the washer. Thereafter, the problem became permanent. I always used HE detergent. The washer was purchased new in December 2007, and the I made the repair in September 2009. I spent about $1300 for the Kenmore H3t Steam Washer, and I am disappointed that it required repair after less than 2 years. My mothers old Maytag washer lasted more than 15 years, and was not susceptible to soap SUDS.

A BEST AND DETAILED SOLUTION TO CODE F2 AND SUD ERROR MESSAGE.

If you are getting an F2 error message or a SUD error message, and are observing some water in the tub that is not draining at end of cycle, and your washi cycle is taking a lot longer that normal to complete,then here is what to do.

This solution is easy, and will take no more that 15 minutes, from start to finish, and most of that time is in the --prep-- (getting tools, towels, etc.). This WILL save you a expensive service call.

There are 3 small 9/32 hex head screws that hold the front panel on. The front panel I'm speaking of is --below-- the washer window.
These screws can be found::

a. if you have the optional washer storage drawer unit,, they can be found by opening the drawer, and observing the 3 screws (left, middle, and right side, that hold the front panel on.
or
b. if you DONT have the optional drawer assembly, then they are found on the front, bottom, of the washer, again holding the front panel on the washer.

1. unscrew the 3 hex head screws (9/32 socket or nut driver size)
2. lower/remove the front panel, and set it asisde on some towels, so as not to scratch the front panel.
3. get something now to soak up at least a gallon of water that WILL empty onto the floor.
4. observe large WHITE drain cap, at front center of washer.
5. unscew white drain cap --WARNING-- lots of water WILL drain out when you loosen the white cap. Once all the water is out, remove and take out the filter trap.
6. clean out the front and bottom of the filter trap. I'm sure lint, and gosh knows what else have cloged some of the holes
7. wipe out the inside of the housing for the filter trap (observe lots of -gunk- there too).
8 put back in filter trap, tighten white cap, and put front panel on washer with same 9/32 screws you took off earlier.

Now I ran a test --express wash-- cycle, just to be sure all was OK,, and it was.

Now go get your wife and have her complete that laundry that was waiting for the washer to get repaired. OK sorry,, maybe you should just do the laundry your self, and get some points later.

Hope this step by step was helpful... Have a great day.

Washer Guy in Kansas City, MHE

could be door interlock...... cheers

http://www.fixya.com/support/t14429891-am_getting_f22_code door locking error

sounds like turn table motor b carefull the capasoter holds 10.000 volts even when unplugd one discharge of same and its curtains

Kenmore 110 4996 Use And Care Manual Troubleshooting

1. "F" Variables [other than FH and F02] (=Electrical Problem)
2. Select STOP twice to cancel the cycle.
3. Select DRAIN & SPIN if there is excessive water in the washer.
4. Unplug the machine for thirty seconds to reset the Central Control Unit
5. Re-select cycle and press START.

If you go to this website and put in your full model number, you will be directed to the parts breakdown for your machine. Water Filters Lawn Garden Appliance Parts

Do you mean F11 code? The Problem may be a communication error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the Motor Control Unit (MCU). You need to check the connections between them and verify that nothing is loose. I don't have a service manual for this type of front loader but if you have access to one it will give you a protocol to follow to verify which part is the most likely to be causing the failure.

Have you changed detergent or loaded more/less clothes than before? I use liquid detergent to promote even distribution. Using HE detergent really makes a difference too. Cheap detergents don't clean near as well. Water temperature is another factor. Good Luck

Check the following items: 1. The inlet screen at the hose water inlets to be sure they aren't clogged. With well water, debris can sometimes be an issue. 2. The water valve(s) are open 3. The water line(s) are not kinked 4. The water line(s) are not frozen 5. To be sure there is an available water supply, disconnect the water lines (hot and cold) and try running them into a drain while they are not connected to the washer.