Top 10 Kenmore Elite Oasis 27052 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

PF simply means there was a power failure since the last time you used the machine.
To clear it - simply power cycle it.


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1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




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"F21" (AKA SD) is a Long (SLOW) Drain error (LD). If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a "SUDS" error may also be displayed. This may be an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:


1.First, attempt to unplug the washer for at LEAST 30 minutes to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches with the unit. If the error code returns, proceed to step 2.
2.Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
3.Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
4.Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.
To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump.

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DO NOT attempt to turn this washer upside down! The wash tub is suspended by suspension springs and it will dislodge the wash tub from its mounts. The washer also weighs about 200 lbs. Not a bright suggestion.

In addition, if this is an OASIS, no special tools are required to remove the wash tub. It usually involves removing the center cap from the wash plate and loosen the bolt underneath with a socket. You will need to remove the wash tub ring in order to get the wash tub out, however. This is the pastic ring around the top of the wash tub. It simply snaps in place and can be removed by popping the retaining taps free with a screwdriver.

If you hear a rattling noise, I would recommend you check the drain pump first as "titelines" suggested. It is common for items to get lodged in the piump impeller and make noise. Keep in mind...there are TWO pumps on an Oasis. One is a recirc pump. Check them both. If anything has been left in the pump for any significant period of time, it can damage them.

You will need to access them both with the rear panel removed and the wash tilted up so you can access the mounting bolts and screws from underneath. I would STRONGLY recommend you drain all residual water from the wash tub prior to disconnecting any drain hoses. If you own a wet/dry shop vac, this can be accomplished by removing the drain hose from the standpipe and pulling a vacuum on it. This will minimize any mess you may have to clean up later.

If your model number differs from the one you posted this question under, please post back with your correct information. I hope this helps you.

What does error code UL mean on digital Kenmore Washer?

OL error means the Motor Controller has sensed an Overload.

The oL code means the motor control board is struggling to power the motor up. If it recurs after removing some clothes - usually this means a new motor control.... or worse - a new bearing.

If it were a problem with the tub floating up, the unit would spin instead of nutate.

Bearing failure in this machine is very common.

I suspect the drive shaft and bearing are the problem. The bearing and shaft are part of the outer tub.

The new outer tub with bearing W10128830 cost approximately $197 dollars.

If you can get access to the shaft it may be an Emory cloth will help smooth things down so that you no longer get the OL code.

This is an ambitious do-it-yourself project... as most appliance repairmen don't understand how this machine operates.




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"F21" (AKA SD) is a Long (SLOW) Drain error (LD). If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a "SUDS" error may also be displayed. This may be an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:


1.First, attempt to unplug the washer for at LEAST 30 minutes to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches with the unit. If the error code returns, proceed to step 2.
2.Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
3.Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
4.Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.
To check the drain pump...



If you experience a problem where the washer does not drain properly or the drain pump makes excessive noise, here's the information you need to check the drain pump:

Symptom: PUMP IS RUNNING, BUT NOT DRAINING PROPERLY.

1. Unplug the washer while servicing inside the unit.
2. Remove the Cabinet....
#
1

Disconnect your Kenmore Oasis washing machine from its power source. Make sure that your washer is unplugged before beginning to disassemble it.
#
2

Remove the screws that hold the control console to the top of your Oasis washer. In some Kenmore Oasis models, the two screws may be covered by plastic end caps. After removing the screws, set them aside until you are ready to replace them.
#
3

Flip the console up, back and out of the way.
4

Locate the cabinet clips on the top of your Kenmore Oasis washer. These clips are located toward the back of the washer top and would be hidden by the console if it were not currently flipped up.
#
5

Slide your screwdriver underneath the metal cabinet clips. Wiggle the screwdriver back and forth to gently pry the cabinet clips free.
#
6

Disconnect the group of colored wires that plug into the top of the washer from the control console. These wires control the lid switch on your Kenmore washing machine. To disconnect, grasp the white plastic clip and pull gently.
#
7

Remove the washing machine cabinet. Tilt the cabinet towards you, and then lift the entire cabinet up and off of its platform.



3. Locate the drain pump. It will be located directly under the wash tub (it is the only pump this washer has).
4. There is an access removal cover on the pump that can be removed to clean out the trap. BEFORE doing this, it is strongly recommended that you remove all residual water from the wash tub & drain line or you will have about a gallon or so inside your washer and on the floor to clean up.
5. Here's a helpful way of quickly removing the residual water. If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum with the shop vac. This will empty the wash tub, pump and drain lines. If you don't own a shop vac, grab a bunch of old towels and open the access on the pump slowly so that it comes out at a trickle. Allow the towels to soak up the majority of the water. Close the access and stop the water if you need to get additional towels.
6. Open the pump access and remove once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.
7. Clean out the pump thoroughly and reinstall the access cover. Make sure the cover is snug, but do not over tighten.
8. Place the drain hose back in the standpipe (IMPORTANT - DO NOT FORGET!).
9. With the bottom panel still off, plug the washer back in and select the following on the operator console - DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN, and then press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the same button). "C00" will show on the console display as the washer begins diagnostics mode.
10. Check the drain pump for leaks as the washer fills. The pump is gravity filled and will hold water even it is not pumping. Allow washer to run through diagnostics until it begins the wash tub tumble cycle.
11. At this point, you can stop the diagnostics procedure by pressing PAUSE/CANCEL 2 times. The drain pump energizes and the washer will begin to drain.
12. If the drain pump works normal and there are no leaks detected, reinstall the bottom panel and tighten screws.


NOTE: It is normal to have residual water left inside the wash tub under the wash basket. This is why it is important to leave the door ajar when not in use so this water does not become sour.


If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump.



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Door unlock failure
Excessive force on door lid is preventing lock bolt from
retracting.
Wash media buildup is preventing lock bolt from retracting.
Machine/motor control cannot determine if door lid is in an
unlocked state. See TEST #8, page 14


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Hello, Welcome to FixYa.

Hopefully the info below will supply you with the assistance to get the top up (and more) on the Oasis washer.

The first thing I'd do is this...

**unplug the washer...most important and safety first**

1) this is best done with a puddy knife or something similar to depress the clips on both sides, i.e. (these tops are quiet heavy and the lid has heavy springs so be careful...leave the top in the "up" position until you can rest the entire top against a wall or something to allow you to work un-impeded as shown below as well )



Lean it back if possible...watch that lid again, those springs are heavy duty.




Once to this position you should be free to investigate or perform whatever service you had hoped to perform.

Let me know if you have any questions or if anything is not clear and I'll see what I can do. Good luck.

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Regards,

Macmarkus :)

The LF code stands for long fill.. I would suspect a water inlet solenoid valve as the most likely suspect. It may be the hot or the cold valve. If the valve does not completely open the time to fill your machine takes too long. You can't replace just the one valve because the part contains all of the water inlet valves. That of course jacks up the cost but what can you do.