20 Most Recent Water ACE SUBMERSIBLE SUMP PUMP 1/3 HP Questions & Answers

Inspect the check valve to see if the flapper is stuck shut causing a restriction in the .

I have a master plumber 1/3 HP model 539892 submersible effluent pump and was wondering if it takes oil and if it does what type of oil.

The switch has failed. Replace it with a new mercury type rated to handle the pump.

Pump hums, it is burned out, or the capacitor is bad http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html#motor Gene Water Heater Timers Save Money If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

blocked pick-up screen could cause the pump to overheat, old pump could be simply overheating, mineral build up in pipes could be causing over pressure at the pump creating overheating....

check the float assembly for freedom of movement. A jammed float will give a false indicator to the pump.

sounds like a jammed impeller or blocked intake screen.

sounds like a jammed or detached impeller, located at the bottom of the pump motor. Repairs are unreliable and replacement is inexpensive ($130 for a comparable pump) recommend replacing the pump.

Bad switch If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/scott_87482045335a4757

There are 2 schools of thought regarding maintenance: you can carry out preventive maintenance (calendar based or hours run)... or, on condition maintenance... i.e repair it when it breaks down. What, is the consequence of a failure... if it's 'bad' replace it.... if not, wait until it fails. Hope this makes sense.

The short run time of the pump indicates very litttle water volume is needed to reach to turn off pressure. To me this indicates you may have two problems. There is a leak somewhere in the system that allows the pressure to drop to the turn on point. Any check valve will fail eventually so barring any other leak that is your problem. I would think only one check valve is needed in the system so the second one may have been added to crutch the first one leaking. Normally the one check valve is placed on the pump before it is attached to the well pipe. The pump must be removed from the well to accomplish the replacement. The second problem has something to do with the storage tank. If the pumps runs whenever you open a faucet or in your short cycle situation, then your tank is way too small or it is "water logged". Assuming it has been sized correctly, which means at least 20 gallon capacity then air needs to be added to the tank which will compress when the pump adds water until the high pressure setting is reached. When water is release to the house the air will expand until the low pressure setting is reached and the cycle repeats. The point here is that a significant quanity of water flows between pump cycles. If your tank was installed in perhaps the last 20 years then it is likely a bladder type whitch contains the water so it never comes in contact with the steel tank, preventing internal corrosion and leaching of metals into the water. If the bladder has failed then the formally isolated air will have been absorbed by the water and your short cycling condition develops. That is what happens in non bladder tanks so air needs to be added periodically. I think all bladder tanks have a car tire like valve stem attached to the tank so that the opperating pressure can be set by the manufacture. The valve stem rairly leaks so bladder failure causes the loss of the air in the tank. There should be a label on the tank specifying the factory pressure. Use a tire gauge to test for the proper pressure. Add air if it is below setting.

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