Yamaha YZF-R1 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Coolant Temperature Sensor is Sky Blue in the harness Engine Intake Temperature is White in the harness. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2240256/Yamaha-Yzf-R1-2003.html?page=31 No videos showing replacement unfortunately. ..

so posted motorcycle to cars,moved you to Yamahammer. no year I guessed at the move, so none known and matters. 2008 to 10 says wiki. top cause all machines with engines (fuel) and not driven every day the fuel goes bad. and clogged filters and injector. 1here the battery bad,or charging system weak if goes weak spark fails, EFI must have 13 to 15vdc at all times running, if not EFI fails, (electronics for spark and fuel) most motorcycle sit parked for endless months.or years. for sure in the rust belt, nobody drives on ICE same with garden tools sat idle and fuel is now junk. the word is MISFIRING< due the 3 classic causes auto cycle engines for 100years bad fuel is first due to not driven daily!!! this is physics based and ASE rules of testing not guessing. using tools. 1: bad compression on the 1 cylinder? over 150psi a must. 2: bad spark on this cylinder, . spark plug bad. or coil or spark trigger devices. 3: bad fueling or bad fuel. under or overfueled or leaking injectors Is a single cylinder engine, V1 is 2008 to 2010 seen in India are you in India. we are USA>? Yamaha YZF-R15 v1. as seen here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_YZF-R15 why leave off makers name and YZF, do you want lies.? I say get the Motorcycle serviced in a real shop ,they have to tools and the skills to find the cause.

Motorcycles have many , switches to block crankingcommon are.handle bar,. emergence kill switchkick stand switchclutch left hand lever switchnot in Neutral the green Lamp not glowing,. key switch badstarter relay bad, even if it clicks it sure can sill be bad.starter badbattery not fully chargedthe MC service manual covers all this, buy one?

Can u email me a drawing. I have a 2000 r1

Question edited for clarity and typo 'weephile'. Question moved from Misc to model category. Screeching is dry metal on metal abrasion. Take it all apart and get some water pump grease on the shaft or replace it completely. Seems to be a known issue https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+Yamaha+YZF-R1%2C+coolant+leaking+from+weep+hole ..

Left Signal is the orange wire !! We Are Here To Help !! Donald Deane MCSE,MASTER ASE,CPO

Question edited for clarity, add Maker.Question moved from Cars and Trucks.You may have burned out the seals on the fuel pump. Test for operation and pressure. Holy Moly. $666 for the OEM part!https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50044da5f8700209bc791381/fuel-tankhttps://www.google.com/search?q=2003+R1+fuel+pump..

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1071702/Yamaha-Yzf-R1-2007.html?page=328#manual

Mine was doing the same thing and I had just rebuilt them. I did everything I could think of that it might be. Every piece had been changed out to new so I was lost... except the little round rubber seals that are between each Carb. There's 6 seals altogether. You listen to two bolts that run all the way through each carburetor to hold them together but you got to be really careful not take them completely apart because the little Springs will fly out of there couple of mine did and they're hard to get back but after putting those new seals in there that's why I fixed mine then it has just had to get it all set back right and it was good to go

Air temperature sensor: open or short circuit

07 Error Code 22 ?? ' Yamaha R1 Forum

https://www.r1-forum.com > 07-error-code-22.258148 Mar 26, 2009 - Fault code No. 22 Symptom Air temperature sensor: open or short circuit detected. Diagnostic code No. 05 Air temperature sensor 07 R1 error code "22" ' Yamaha R1 Forum Nov 19, 2009 08 R1 missing air temp sensor and code 22 on dash Jan 20, 2011 07 R1 throwing codes 22 and 60. Need some help!! Oct 21, 2009 2015 R1 Error 22 ' Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums Apr 12, 2019 More results from www.r1-forum.com

It is very possible the engine oncce had a oil heater for cold climates.

I have a 2004 that is having the same issue, If I rev it it runs, idle it shuts off

Did you find an answer?

lots of help in this link https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+Yamaha+R1+no+spark ..

Question edited for FULL 'year make model'. Question moved to sub category. https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+Yamaha+YZF+1000+R1+replace+ignition ..

Question edited for clarity to add maker and the rest of the model! Question moved from Cars and Trucks to correct category. 1998 and 1999 are the same bike. From 2000 the engine management system was changed. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_YZF-R1 ..

Hello,
I dont think that you are doing anything wrong. Your bike has a side stand safety switch. the switch is designed to cut the engine if you put it in gear while the side stand is down or it thinks that the side stand is down. There is also a clutch lever switch that allow you to start the bike in gear while the clutch is pulled in. I would check the side stand switch first and make sure that the side stand is lifting all the way when you flip it up. If the stand is bent or dry, corroded it may not be activating the switch properly.
Next you should check the clutch lever switch. Make sure that the connector is plugged in properly. Also look underneath the lever and you can check the plunger for the switch to make sure it is moving freely.

If you have recently added different levers or a sidestand this can be the problem. somne of the aftermarket parts have to be worked on in order to get the switches acting properly.

Thanks and I hope that this helps.
Steve

Computer may not b recognizin new stuf. Mite need it reprogramd. Hav it scanned or do a datastream to target issue. Buy a shopbook for that model online

Bring the #1 piston (not sure if its the far right or far left piston) to top dean center on the compression stroke. There should be timing marks on the stator/generator flywheel (two of them) one is the TDC mark and the other is the timing mark. You use the TDC one! Then time BOTH cams (there should be a mark) ..make sure the piston is still at TDC and both cams have the BOTH cams lobes are108* away from the lifters.

If you are replacing 2 shift forks, I would replace ALL of them.. if they show signs of wear, replace all of them! You also need to find out WHY they are worn out! Bent shift shaft? Do you ride with pressure on the shifter after you have shifted (to make sure it stays in gear)...If the bike has been dropped on the left side, you might have bent them. A PROFESSIONAL needs to inspect you transmission!!