Question about 2007 kawasaki KLX 250

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Why is my 2010 klx hard to start when it is warm?

Why is my 2010 klx hard to start when it is warm?

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You probably twist the throttle a few times when trying to start it. A power valve squirts extra gas into the cylinder on each twist. The engine then floods and becomes hard to start.

Posted on Sep 11, 2010

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2010 Kawasaki KLX 110L transmission drain plug location


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


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1 Answer

2010 Kawasaki KLX 450R hard to start when hot


Hi, Glenn your bike starts great when cold but once it reaches operating temperature and the engine is shut off for a few minutes then you try to restart it and it will turn over but will not fire or it doesn't do anything, the usual suspects are:
1. When electronics get hot they build up resistance then stop working. It might be an ignition coil, stator, CDI unit etc. First, you must find out if the spark dies out. When the bike won't start, pull a plug wire off, stick a new spark plug in the end and ground the threads on bare metal while someone cranks the engine over. You should see a nice big blue spark between the spark plug gap. Incorrect spark plug gap will cause or contribute to a no start when hot issue.
2. Fuel Tuners have been known to cause this type of problem, disconnect it and see if resolves the issue.
3. Any engine management sensor could be faulty especially the ones that monitor temperature.
4. Gas cap not venting properly, improperly routed fuel lines they must always go down from the gas tank to the carburetor never in any kind of a loop this will cause a vapor lock. Clogged, bent, kinked, pinched or restricted carburetor vent lines will do the same.
5. Overhead camshaft valves adjusted too tight when cold, this will cause loss of compression when hot, except for pushrod engines they usually get looser when hot.
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Jun 10, 2012 | 2010 kawasaki KLX 450R

1 Answer

2004 Kawasaki KLX 300 R hard to start when cold


Hi, Anonymous before you start it in the morning, pull the spark plugs and sniff them. Do they smell like gasoline? Are they wet? If so, you may have fuel leaking past the needle and seat in the carburetor and flooding the cylinders.
Use a voltmeter on the battery an hour after you shut the bike off. It should be at least 12.6 volts. Check it again in the morning. It should still be 12.6 volts or more. If not, something could be drawing current when the key is off.
If it's a carbureted bike and the ambient temperature is warm, you may be over-using your choke/enrichner. Try cranking it with the choke turned off first and then try half-choke, and then full choke. If you start with too much choke it will flood. After it starts, shut the choke off after 15 - 30 seconds and then use the throttle to keep the bike running until it warms up. Over-using the choke will soot up your spark plugs.
A fresh set of properly gapped spark plugs can make a lot of difference in how easily a bike starts.
Engines need a richer fuel mixture when they're cold. An intake leak can also cause hard starting because it leans out the air/fuel mixture.
After you get the bike started, spray some WD-40 or carb cleaner around the carburetor intake manifold seals. If the RPMs change, you have an intake leak.
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Hi, Motophillip1 for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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1 Answer

2010 Kawasaki KLX 140 no electrical power


Hi, Tod468bb before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. Faulty ignition relay.
14. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
15. Check for engine trouble codes.
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1 Answer

2010 Kawasaki KLX 110L battery


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1 Answer

Bought 2004 Kawasaki klx 125 and takes 20-30 kicks to start with choke on and even more when cold. Won't run right until motor warms up n takes a while for it to warm up. Runs fine after it does but it's...


Be certain the battery is in good condition. Install a new spark plug. Clean the carb and air filter. Use the throttle sparingly. The carb has a power valve that gives an extra shot of gas each time the throttle is twisted. Too many twists and the engine floods out. Please rate my answer. Thanks!

Mar 25, 2011 | 2004 kawasaki KLX 125

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