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Tiny Thatsme Posted on Sep 28, 2019
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05 HONDA METROPOLITAN TRY TO START AND IT HAS A CONSTANT CLICKING SOUND COMEING FROM THE RELAY IVE TRACED ALL POWER AND IT READS BETWEEN 12.3 & 12.6 EVERYWHERE

I JUST DID VALVE SHIMS AND A NEW CARB I HAVE TWO OF THESE SCOOTERS AND THE OTHER I JUST CLEANED THE CARB AS SOMBODY PUT SUGUR IN THE TANK FOR ME. IM A CERTIFIED MASTER TECH IN AUTOMOTIVE AND THESE SCOOTERS JUST THROW ME FOR A LOOP FOR SOME REASON

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Arnie Burke

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  • Honda Master 7,339 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 11, 2019
Arnie Burke
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Joined: Jul 23, 2009
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If it jumps when u screwdriver the relay then ign switch is issue or the wires may hav hi resistenc from age

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 58 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 23, 2010

SOURCE: how is the fuel being deliver from the tank to

runs a vaccuum operated tap which only allows fuel to flow when engine running

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Anonymous

  • 76 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 29, 2010

SOURCE: have a honda crf100f 4cycle got spark wont start,

CLEAN THE CARB AGAIN IF IT RUNS ON STARTING FLUID ITS NOT GETTING FUEL YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE JETS AND MAKE SURE THEY ARE CLEAR

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 11, 2010

SOURCE: CLICKING NOISE FROM RELAY IN POWER SUPPLY

I HAVE FOUND THE SOLUTION THANKS

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Oct 15, 2010

SOURCE: Wont start. Turns over

had simular problem with my sl50qt-7 - qmb139 engine - was bad fuel pit **** pump at fuel tank - replaced it and filter and that took care of my problem.

rycgl

Roy Cagle

  • 1545 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 27, 2011

SOURCE: have a 15.5 hp craftsman

I feel after reading the symptoms that the valves may need adjusting. Is this a Briggs OHV motor. The valve train is sensitive on these and requires periodic (once a year) adjusting. It is not very difficult. A sticking valve or an ignition timing problem could be the cause of the backfiring. Some good, stong fuel system cleaner (like Berryman B-12 Chem Tool )in a heavy dose mixed with the gas you use can readily clean gum and varnish off a sticking valve. The timing problem is a bit tougher nut to crack. If the flywheel key has sheared and the flywheel has moved even slightly on the crankshaft, timing will be affected (with the symptoms you describe). The intake valve not closing all the way can cause this too. To check the valves, remove the bolts holding the OHV cover on the front of the engine. Don't worry, lots of oil won't pour out. It is stored at the other end of the motor. Pull the plug out and rotate the engine by hand. You will see the valve train in motion and be able to readily tell if the valves are seating. If adjusting the valves doesn't fix this, then you will have to remove the engine cover and examine the area of the crank where the flywheel rests. It is slotted and lines up with the slot on the crank. A metal key helps hold the flywheel in place initially (the crank is tapered there and would hold it anyway)....but the key prevents the engine from trying to continue to run if the mower blades strike an immovable object. Instead of the crank breaking, the metal key does. Post back if needed. I am here to help.

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I HAVE A2005 HONDA METROPOLITAN WHEN I TRY TO START IT IT MAKES A CONSTANT CLICKING AND ACTS ASIF THE BATT IS LOW BUT IT READS 12.6 ON MY MULTI METOR

Hi, Tiny before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed, depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYofXAK4MUI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vuhR922CMU
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1434637/Honda-Metropolitan-Chf50.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/677660/Honda-2008-Metropolitan-Chf50.html

0helpful
1answer

I have a 2008 piaggio mp3 500 with a starter issue. I was replacing the stock turn signals with leds and had to poke around a bit to figure out the wiring. I don't think I touched anything not part of the...

You have a bad battery or disconnected something . Major disconnect. I own piaggio equipment many of.. the clicking is also a known issue with start relay being way underated it's 50A and should be 100 min. There's a recall or upfit look son A1 site out of Texas. . Clicking is start relay . Not getting enough juice . Battery is low . . Or no good usually. Get something in their besides a 12 Y battery try a 15 ETX DEKA
0helpful
1answer
0helpful
1answer

I have a honda crv and its very noisy sounds like its comeing from the diff

Hi there.....
I was browzing around for the specs of my 05 CR-V in Singapore when i saw your problem.....The sound should sounds like a loud clicking noise of the rearwheels gear area I believe if the sound is coming from the rear. It could be your diff oil that needs to be changed.
Mine was like that & problem solved with the DIfferential Oil change.
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29533

Hope this helps!!!

Btw,COme join our HOnda CR-V club online...Meet Singapore CR-V drivers @ http://craversclub.com/forum/
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