20 Most Recent 1993 Yamaha FZR 1000 Questions & Answers

Poor performance (missing & dying) when the the engine gets warmed up can very likely be a failing pickup coil. The pickup coil on this FZR1000 is bolted to the right side of the block ( hot location) and is covered by the fairing & gets very little cooling airflow. Disconnect the two-lead connector and check the resistance between the leads per the spec. In the Manuel. If within spec., heat the pickup coil with a heat gun and check it again to see if it's still in spec. If fails when hot it is not hard to replace. Removing the fairings is the most time consuming aspect.

I would suspect that the system is quite dirty internally on a model of this age. First verify that the internals of the reservoir and mastercylinder are clean of all crust and debris from old fluid . There are two small holes in the master cylinder bore, you must visually verify that they are both clean and clear. Begin with the m/cyl full of fresh DOT3/4 brake fluid. Pump the lever several times(10) and hold, break the banjo bolt at the line on m/cyl loose momentairly and retighten before releasing the lever, repeate untill good stream of fluid escapes each time without air spitting out. Be sure to protect plastic and painted surfaces from fluid spillage. Move to the next banjo bolt in the line and repeat process. Finish up at the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. You should achive an operational clutch provided all components are good.

Remove fairing side pannels to gain side acsess to t

Sukkle julle nog? Het my instruksie nie gehelp nie?. Ek die opgetel, dalk help dit?

The way I understand it is that if #1 is at TDC and the T mark is lined up with the crankcase seam - there is no offset woodruff key (i.e. ignition advancer). If you think about, what's changing (when there is an offset key, that is), is the rotational position of the flywheel in relation to any given crankshaft position (i.e. TDC). So...

IF there is no offset key, rotate the crank so that #1 (and #4 by the way) are at TDC. The T mark should line up with the seam. From there, put the exhaust cam in (taking slack out of the cam chain from the exhaust side). When you go to set the cam into the chain do it in such a way that the cam timing mark is slightly ahead (toward front of motor) of the mark on the cam cap (EDIT - Since you're not actually installing the cap yet simply place it on top of the cam in such a way that there is an even gap between IT and the head surface. This way you can eyeball the position of the marks.). Then install the intake cam in a similar manner. That is, set the cam into the chain so the cam timing mark is slightly ahead of the cap mark. EDIT - When both cams are in place, install the cams caps (follow the torqueing procedure so you don't break them OR the cams!!!). After the caps are installed, grab a dowel and stick it in the cam chain tensioner hole and push the slack out of the chain. This SHOULD rotate the cams back (toward rear of motor) so the marks DO in fact line up.

CAUTION: Keep periodically checking to make sure the T mark is STILL lined up properly while putting the cams in. The crank DOES have a tendency to move around a bit while you're trying to jimmy the cams back in.

If the cams are out it's a bit easier since they are not part of the equation yet. It sounds like you're trying to figure out why the T mark isn't lining up when the cam timing marks ARE lined up. Go once step at a time - starting without the cams - as I described above and you shouldn't have a problem.

If you DO have an offset key, you MAY need to get a stock key to get the timing right. THEN, re-install the offset once the cams are back in. This point / tip was given to me by our resident GURU Reelrazor (who I'm sure will chime in at some point).

Jy kan net 'n klep seer maak as 'n belt/ketting gebreek het en tie piston het die klep getref. Kry die enjin in die posisie waar die kleppe albei toe moet wees en blaas dan druk lug in die vonk prop gat. Jy sal gou hoor of sien of daar 'n klep lek.

Ek sal meer geneig wees om te se dat jy 'n probleem met die vergasser het, iets sit vas, vuilgoed of 'n verstelling. Kry 'n blik QuikStart en blas daarvan in die inlaat en kyk of dit die enjing vir 'n ruk sal laat loop. Kom terug na my toe as jy nog nie reg kom nie.

Unless you are going to race the bike, you really dont need to raise the tail. I would just go with larger rear tire. I have a 190/50 on mine rides great.

You must be concerned about the safety of your bike so that it won't make the owner face any kind of inconvenience. I recently bought a Yamaha r1 carbon fiber accessory in order to renew my bike. It's better you should get your bike repaired on time and avoid all the issues.

Check wires to horn and all fuses.

Hello, sorry I do not have this type of user manual, of course, if you need this type of spare parts, you can refer to this website http://www.motorpartstore.com/!!!

I think when buy motorcycle accessories should be attached instructions, otherwise will ask next merchants purchased valve

You the yamaha FZR wiring have what problem? If need to change connection, you can try to refer to this website, http://www.motorpartstore.com.our company do a lot of motorcycle spare parts, also on the quality and the price is very favorable