i need a engine electrical diagram 4 my maxim in easy to read high detail
Try this service manual free to download in pdf format
Posted on Mar 20, 2009
I have a 1982 Yamaha Xj 750. It runs great for about 30 minutes until an electrical part overheats, and I no longer have spark. Is there a condenser I'm overlooking? I've tryed changing the coils and the ignitor box. I don't see how it can be the ignition pickup. Has anyone come upon this problem before?
Did you check the resistors on the spark plug wires? Too much resistance will prevent the plug from firing.
Sounds like the CDI box is shorting or the wiring harness has a defect it in somewhere in the routing thats heating up after 30 minutes. Yamaha coils very seldom fail, however the CDI box is a common problem on these bikes.
Good luck, hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
I've just about made the conversion except on the cdi box I the terminal layout of the 6 terminal part of the cdi unit. i need to know which terminals go to coil 1,2, and 3 ETC
Thanks
Mark
You will find everything you need to know about this here:
http://www.yamaha-triples.org/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=5399&posts=18&highlight=electronic%20ignition&highlightmode=1#M40996
I am probably going to do the same to my 77 xs750 this weekend.
Dusty6467
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
i need the wiring schematic for a 1985 yamaha virago starting circut?
Go to this link and you will get your manual for free:
http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp
Please leave positive feedback if I have helped
thank you
Posted on Sep 19, 2009
What make of Carburetor is on yamaha xj700 maxim x 1985 as no numbers are on it and need to replace them as broken?
Actually, they're not Hitachi carbs. Since you have a 1985 "Maxim-X", the model number is actually XJ700XN. The XJ700 does indeed have Hitachi carbs but your bike, the XJ700XN Maxim-X has BS33 Mikuni carbs.
Careful with the model number, the XJ700 and the XJ700X are entirely different bikes.
By the way, if you want more answers about your Maxim-X, feel free to visit the "Maximum Maxim-X" web site at www.maxim-x.com and the lesser known FTP site for the Maximum Maxim-X web site at www.maxim-x.com/pix
HAP
Posted on Mar 24, 2010
how to removal the shaft from the rear end to removal the real wheel will not out
Hello,
In order to remove the rear wheel, it is not necessary to remove the drive shaft. The first step is to get your rear wheel off the ground. The easiest way to do this is to put your bike on its center stand. However, not all bikes have center stands. If your bike does not have a center stand, you may want to buy a motorcycle lift (available from Pep-boys, or Harbor Freight). Once the rear wheel is off the ground, you can disconnect the brake linkage, and then remove the rear axle.
At this point there is nothing holding your rear wheel to the bike except for some meshing gears. Now you must lift and maneuver the rear wheel back and forth a little and eventually the final drive will work free. You will be able to slide the wheel toward the right side of the bike and then lower it to the ground.
In theory removing the rear wheel is that simple. In practice, the gears in the final drive can sometimes hold on quite tightly. This is particularly true if the rear wheel has not been removed for a long time or if your final drive is very worn. Usually being patient and persistent will pay off and you will be able to remove the rear wheel.
Sometimes it may prove easier to remove the entire wheel / final drive / drive shaft assembly first, and then separate them. In this case, the order of operations is different. Once you have the rear wheel off the ground, you can disconnect the rear brake linkage just as before. Next you can remove the four bolts that hold the drive shaft housing to the back of your crank case. Finally you can remove the rear axle and slide the wheel backwards the unmesh the drive shaft.
Regardless of which way you remove the rear wheel, it will be easier to put it back together by first attaching the drive shaft and final drive to the crank case, and then reinstall the wheel as described in the first method above.
Good Luck,
-Josh
Posted on Mar 17, 2011
1985 Xj700 Maxim will not start, just a single click from the relay. I have replaced the starter relay, battery, diod, and elec relay...cleaned and tightened all of the electrical connections including the battery ground and cleaned out the starter. The kickstand safety, kill switch, start button, and ignition switch are working properly. I can jump start the bike fine. Next step for me is the ignitor or starter. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve!
HI, LETS REMEMBER THE STARTER RELAY IS ONLY A MAGNETIC SWITCH, WHICH WHEN THE STARTER SWITCH IS PRESSED IT OPENS THE CIRCUIT AND ALOWS 12V DC TO COMPLETE THE CIRCUIT TO THE STARTER MOTOR, IF YOU BRIDGE THE 2 THICK WIRES AT THE STARTER RELAY WITH THE IGNITION SWITCHED ON, 1 COMES FROM THE BATERY, AND THE OTHER GOES TO THE STARTER MOTOR, AND YOU HAVE SUFICIANT POWER IN YOUR BATTERY THE ENGINE WILL TURN OVER AND START, THUS ELIMINATING THE RELAY, IF THE STARTER DOES NOT TURN OVER THE ENGINE WHEN YOU DO THIS IT IS LIKELY THE STARTER MOTOR ITSELF IS NOT WORKING CORRECTLY, YOU COULD ALWAYS REMOVE THE WIRE FROM THE RELAY AND PUT IT MOMENTARILY DIRECT TO THE POS SIDE OF THE BATTERY, INSTEAD OF BRIDGING AT THE RELAY, REMEMBER THAT IF THE BIKE RUNS WHEN YOU JUMP START IT, THEN THE PROBLEM IS WITH THE STARTING SIDE , AND NOT THE IGNITION SIDE AS THE IGNITOR IS CONECTED TO THE IGNITION SIDE REPLACING THIS WOULD BE A WASTE OF FUNDS. THESE MACHINES ALSO HAD PROBLEMS EARLY ON WITH STARTER MOTORS & THE STARTER CLUTCH, WHICH IS A ONE WAY CLUTCH LOCATED IN THE LH ENGINE COVER ALONG WITH THE AC GENERATOR
Posted on Nov 29, 2010
what type oil and wt is right for 1985 yamaha maxim, how many qts does it hold
You should only use a JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold climate and 20w-50 for warmer climate...3.7 qts with filter change.
Posted on Aug 10, 2011
Have 4 lines that just hang down but there 3 lines 1 off the number 1 carb and 1 off the number 4 carb and 1 comes off between the number 2 and 3 carbs where do the 3 top lines gcarbss
There\'s no "fuel line diagram" for the Maxim-X that I\'m aware of but the fuel lines aren\'t all that complicated.
Let\'s start at the gas tank. The petcock has 2 hoses coming from it - the smaller of the two is not a fuel line - it\'s the vacuum line to trigger the petcock valve and it connects on the hose nipple at the top of the #2 intake manifold. Some people have petcocks where the vacuum hose leaves the petcock toward the back of the bike before doubling back to the #2 manifold. Others have petcocks where the vacuum hose leaves the petcock toward the front of the bike before connecting at the #2 manifold. Either way works. It\'s not important which way as long as the hose doesn\'t get kinked and cut off vacuum from the manifold.
The larger hose from the petcock is, of course, the main fuel feed. From the factory there was not an in-line fuel filter in that hose but there should be. In fact, it\'s one of the first things I recommend to people who are tinkering with their X fuel system. Install an inline fuel filter right behind the petcock as shown here:
http://www.maxim-x.com/fuel_filter.html (there are pictures midway down the page)
The end of the hose emerging from the fuel filter has bends in it in order to neatly find it\'s way to the fuel T between the #2 and #3 carbs. The T is just above the tops of the bowls. Don\'t be afraid if you see the fuel T rotate while pressing the hose onto it - that\'s fine.... unless it rotates too freely in which case the seals might dried up and you might experience some seeping or even full blown leakage around the T fitting where it enters the #2 and #3 carbs. Oh... one more thing about the main fuel hose - there is a guide loop bolted to the carb rack on the rail joining the top-back of the carbs, between the #2 and #3 carbs. The main fuel hose is meant to be held in that guide loop.
Two down - two to go.
There are only two remaining and identical fuel hoses - they are actually float bowl vent/overflow hoses. There are 2 more T fittings on the X Mikunis - both are at the same level.... just a bit higher up than the fuel T for the main fuel hose. There is one vent/overflow T between carbs #1 and #2 and another between carbs #3 and #4. Just like the main fuel inlet, these T fittings also rotate. But unlike the main fuel inlet, if they rotate too freely and imply that the seals may be dried up, it\'s of little consequence because they\'re only vent/overflow fittings anyway. If the carbs are setup right and the float valves aren\'t sticking then there should never be any fuel in those hose at all. Seriously - they should remain forever dry and fuel-free if everything is correct. It\'s only when the float valves stick or if someone incorrectly sets the float levels too high that you\'d ever expect to see any fuel coming from those fittings through either of the vent/overflow hoses.
There is one caution about connecting the 2 vent/overflow hoses. Make sure they aren\'t directed UP from the T fittings and draped over anything before heading down again. The hoses should leave the T fittings in a downward direction, otherwise, if there\'s some kind of condition that causes float levels to be too high, draped hoses will allow the fuel levels to get much higher in the carbs before draining away and that can lead to other unhappy things.
So to sum up - there are only 4 hoses involved in the Maxim-X fuel system (unless you\'re in California in which case there\'s an extra bottle and lines). 1.The petcock vacuum hose, 2.The main fuel feed which goes to a T between carbs #2 & #3 and which should have an inline fuel filter installed, 3.The left float bowl vent/overflow hose which connects to a T between carbs #1 and #2 and should be directed down, and 4.The right float bowl vent/overflow hose which connects to a T between carbs #3 and #4 and should be directed down. That\'s all there is.
HAP
www.maxim-x.com
Maximum Maxim Resource for 1985 86 Yamaha 700 750...
Maximum Maxim 1985 86 Yamaha 700 750...
Posted on Aug 21, 2014
I am not sure what make but it is a 750 xj yamaha 1983
Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
1983 Yamaha XJ750 wiring diagram Google Search
XJ Electrical diagrams
Yamaha XJ700N Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-xj-owners-manuals
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e
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