1985 Yamaha XJ 700 X Maxim - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The socket is an 18mm Sparkplug Socket for a 12mm thread plug.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. I am in two minds whether you have two issues or just one/ Bike runs and stall out, could be a few things, like a fuel hose air lock, I have seen that a few times. Or it just ran out of electrical power because the battery went flat (total loss system) I had that on a Kawasaki H1 500 triple that I took to the Isle of Man TT. I rode it home with a car battery on the back rack. That was caused by a faulty rectifier. My guess is that you have a broken wire in the harness somewhere. Is the battery connected to the right polarity. That is an easy mistake to make. Tip, get the wife's red nail polish and put a line around the positive terminal edge and paint the hard to see black, raised plus + sign. See if you have an Motorcycle Electrician near you. You need someone with access to the wiring diagrams, the ability to read them and the test equipment. This link will find someone close to you. https://www.google.com/search?q=motorcycle+auto+electrician+near+me ..

Well I'll just tell you this if you're standing on the left side of the bike facing the gauges look straight down you're going to see the smaller round cylinder type deal that has two bolts in the top of it not the side but the top of it you pull those two bolts out then the starter will slide right out after you unhook the wire

Well as far as your starter goes you can either buy a new one for about 300 bucks or you can get like me and get pretty proficient at the rebuilding them it's probably the brushes aren't making contact with the armature pretty simple I use some brushes out of a old starter motor off of a car I had to modify them but they worked not an easy chore though

Hi I think it's a yamaha xj seca 750 1983 r.

Almost sounds like a bad starter relay, or a bad starter solenoid.

NGK BP8ES or equivalent with a gap of 0.7~0.8mm (0.028~0.031in). This might sound crude but the air filters are behind the carbs. Watch thus youtube video, you need to remove the seat, both side covers and undo the rear tank mount. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McqgLkJ7Hk8 This will help. Rod

I've read that, owners should NEVER use any plug other than NGK plugs. They are highly recommended

0.70mm

Hey, let me google that for you. Www.google.com

look on youtube

Two main reasons; 1. There is an air leak in the intake manifold--the rubber thing on the engine side of the carbs that mounts the carbs. Or, 2, the jets in the carb are clogged. To decide which to fix, open a propane torch and let the gas flow but dont light it. While running your bike as slowly as you can, let the gas from the unlit torch pour over the intake manifold. If the engine speeds up, you have a leak. If this doesn't affect the speed, the carb jets are clogged. To clean them, take the carbs out, remove the cups from the bottoms, called the float bowls--just take one bowl off at a time. You will then see two small towers with brass plugs in them, called jets. Take these brass plugs out and blow their small holes out with carb cleaner from Walmart. Make sure you can see light through each one of them them. Put things back together and go for a test drive.

There\'s no "fuel line diagram" for the Maxim-X that I\'m aware of but the fuel lines aren\'t all that complicated.Let\'s start at the gas tank. The petcock has 2 hoses coming from it - the smaller of the two is not a fuel line - it\'s the vacuum line to trigger the petcock valve and it connects on the hose nipple at the top of the #2 intake manifold. Some people have petcocks where the vacuum hose leaves the petcock toward the back of the bike before doubling back to the #2 manifold. Others have petcocks where the vacuum hose leaves the petcock toward the front of the bike before connecting at the #2 manifold. Either way works. It\'s not important which way as long as the hose doesn\'t get kinked and cut off vacuum from the manifold.The larger hose from the petcock is, of course, the main fuel feed. From the factory there was not an in-line fuel filter in that hose but there should be. In fact, it\'s one of the first things I recommend to people who are tinkering with their X fuel system. Install an inline fuel filter right behind the petcock as shown here:http://www.maxim-x.com/fuel_filter.html (there are pictures midway down the page)The end of the hose emerging from the fuel filter has bends in it in order to neatly find it\'s way to the fuel T between the #2 and #3 carbs. The T is just above the tops of the bowls. Don\'t be afraid if you see the fuel T rotate while pressing the hose onto it - that\'s fine.... unless it rotates too freely in which case the seals might dried up and you might experience some seeping or even full blown leakage around the T fitting where it enters the #2 and #3 carbs. Oh... one more thing about the main fuel hose - there is a guide loop bolted to the carb rack on the rail joining the top-back of the carbs, between the #2 and #3 carbs. The main fuel hose is meant to be held in that guide loop.Two down - two to go.There are only two remaining and identical fuel hoses - they are actually float bowl vent/overflow hoses. There are 2 more T fittings on the X Mikunis - both are at the same level.... just a bit higher up than the fuel T for the main fuel hose. There is one vent/overflow T between carbs #1 and #2 and another between carbs #3 and #4. Just like the main fuel inlet, these T fittings also rotate. But unlike the main fuel inlet, if they rotate too freely and imply that the seals may be dried up, it\'s of little consequence because they\'re only vent/overflow fittings anyway. If the carbs are setup right and the float valves aren\'t sticking then there should never be any fuel in those hose at all. Seriously - they should remain forever dry and fuel-free if everything is correct. It\'s only when the float valves stick or if someone incorrectly sets the float levels too high that you\'d ever expect to see any fuel coming from those fittings through either of the vent/overflow hoses.There is one caution about connecting the 2 vent/overflow hoses. Make sure they aren\'t directed UP from the T fittings and draped over anything before heading down again. The hoses should leave the T fittings in a downward direction, otherwise, if there\'s some kind of condition that causes float levels to be too high, draped hoses will allow the fuel levels to get much higher in the carbs before draining away and that can lead to other unhappy things.So to sum up - there are only 4 hoses involved in the Maxim-X fuel system (unless you\'re in California in which case there\'s an extra bottle and lines). 1.The petcock vacuum hose, 2.The main fuel feed which goes to a T between carbs #2 & #3 and which should have an inline fuel filter installed, 3.The left float bowl vent/overflow hose which connects to a T between carbs #1 and #2 and should be directed down, and 4.The right float bowl vent/overflow hose which connects to a T between carbs #3 and #4 and should be directed down. That\'s all there is.HAPwww.maxim-x.com

The list of reasons could go on forever, more details of what is and isn't happening would help others to help you.

First, how do you know they were too tight? Would the bike idle smoothly and consistently after they set the valves? A common symptom of tight valves is the bike will not idle smoothly... it will rev up some on its own.. sometimes hard to start.. and it gets worse the hotter the engine gets! How do you now the valves are "burnt"? What, exactly, do you mean by "burnt valves"? If they are "burnt" .. No do not drive it. Talk to the dealer or/then go to another dealer that will guarantee their work!!!!

A couple of thoughts come to mind. First, testing a battery isn't as straight forward as people think. You can have a poor battery that shows your multi-meter 12V. If you really want to know whether your battery is good, bring it to someone who will load test it. In Canada, Canadian Tire will do that for free. I only mention this because 99% of the time, getting a "click" when you try to start the bike is a sign of a bad battery. But let's assume for the moment that the battery truly is fine. In that case, there are several possibilities. 1) Your starter solenoid (aka starter relay) may sound as if it's engaging (the click) when it isn't actually making a solid connection internally due to corrosion, for instance. If that's what's going on, it's easy to diagnose by simply jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver (ie. shorting it). If shorting the solenoid terminals externally suddenly gets your starter turning then you need a new solenoid. 2) Assuming your solenoid is good (which can be verified with a circuit tester), if it clicks and engages but the starter doesn't turn, often it's because the contact brushes have come to rest between two adjacent contacts on the commutator. If that's what's going on then put the bike in gear (2nd is easier) and rock it forward so as to cause the starter and engine to rotate a bit - the idea is to push the brushes off the dead spot onto the next contact on the commutator. If this works, it's a sign that your starter needs some TLC... probably new brushes. 3) If the battery is good, the solenoid is good and rotating the engine a bit does nothing, then it's possible that a contact brush is no longer applying enough pressure on the commutator contacts. You may need to replace the brushes. But be fore-warned! New starter brushes for the XJ700 come in two ways A) You can buy both brushes with leads alone in which case you'll find that one brush lead bolts into place but the second lead will need to be welded into place (there's no bolt and the brush plate is made of stainless steel and can't be soldered). B) You can buy the starter kit which comes with the one bolt-on brush and the other brush already connected to a new brush plate - and you get some other goodies too, like bearings etc.... Of course, the brushes alone are much cheaper - as I recall from when I did it, they cost me about $23 and another $5 for the welding shop to weld the one brush to the brush plate. But if you have money to burn, the kit is obviously easier. 4) There's also a possibility that one of the armature coil windings has shorted out. That can be tested using the procedure in the service manual.... which is part of the XJCD set ( www.xjcd.org ). 5) If you're lucky, the starter has a bad ground or bad power connection. I'd check and clean those before anything else. 6) I've also come across one starter for an XJ700 which someone had had apart and reassembled wrong. Thrust washers and so on were in the wrong places and there was far too much and too heavy grease in the planetary gears which caused so much resistance that the starter didn't want to turn - I just got a click sound until I opened it up, lightened the grease and put all the washers in the right places. 7) If there's just a click, it's also possible that there might be a problem with the starter clutch...although on an XJ700 that particular problem usually manifests differently. If you plan to rebuild your starter - carefully note washer locations, use the right grease and not too much of it and be especially careful to note the orientation of the brush plate inside the housing. If you don't, you'll have a heck of a time getting it back together and you'll probably find that the leads for the new brushes come dangerously close to the starter housing (ie. ground). Oh yeah - and be super careful not to damage the insulator around the positive terminal on the side of the starter. It has to be removed to get the starter apart fully but when you put it back, it's really easy to over tighten and crack the insulator which might cause it to fall out of place unexpectedly. It's really not that difficult but it's wise to make some notes. If you want to see some pictures of an XJ700 starter brush plate and brushes and why there's a bit of difficulty in replacing brushes, you'll find pictures and some more notes here: http://www.maxim-x.com/pix/starter/brushes/ HAP

1985 Yamaha XJ700X Maxima vacuum hose diagram Google Search

There are rings on the pistons that could be worn or it could be a valve stem seal that is leaking. The only way to tell is a cylinder leak down test.

bike wont strat got all light everthing push stater botton and it whont trune over cant get power to starter

I'm going to guess that "pit ####" meant petcock :-) and yes they do "go bad" in a number of ways. There is a diaphragm inside which can crack over time. There is also a diaphragm return spring which may break (I've seen only one like that though). But most often, the use of fuel with ethanol in it will cause the breakdown of the plunger seal. When that happens, the petcock "leaks".... not externally but internally. The Maxim-X has a vacuum operated petcock which is supposed to only provide fuel to the carbs when set to PRI (prime) or when set to ON while the engine is running. When the engine is off, there should be no flow of fuel. But the damaged plunger seal allows fuel to flow from the gas tank to the carbs at all times, even when the engine isn't running. When you combine that leak with a leaky float valve, the result is usually a crankcase full of gasoline - clearly not good. If you'd like to know all there is to know about the XJ700X / XJ750X petcock, visit the following page on the Maximum Maxim-X web site: Maximum MAXIM Resource for 1985 86 Yamaha 700 750 Maxim Models XJ700X... There are also some helpful tips for rebuilding the petcock here: http://www.maxim-x.com/pix/petcock/maxim-x_petcock_repair_tricks.txt ...with supporting pictures here: Index of pix petcock Hope that helps.