2008 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The TSSM will not cause these symptoms. I would suggest you start from the beginning of the work you done. If the bike was operating correctly before the work was started, then for sure you have done something incorrectly. Check all fuses as is one of these is blown due to incorrect wiring, then the supply to the clock/tack could be compromised.

Duplicate question already answered

Hey Anonymous, What spring were you talking about, the one that hold the bulb in place or the one on the front trim (called the "Headlamp Door")?

please visit the website below. If you need more information about a specific electrical issue you can reach me at [email protected]://www.motorpartstore.com.Good luck and have a nice day.

SERVICE MANUALS INSTANT DOWNLOAD

I was unable to find the location however, I did find a site where Harley shows you "How to" videos: http://go.fixmyhog.com/email1b/?gclid=COzZk-64ysUCFZY0aQodrFcAuw

lose some weight

right side of bike, bottom of frame near the rear cylinder exhaust pipe you will see a switch with 2 wires attached to it. Takes to wrenches to take off. one to hold the bracket and on one for the brake switch. remove and install new switch. you will need to bleed your rear brakes and if you have abs , take it to the dealership to have them do a abs bleed procedure on the digital tech. .

Here is a picture of mine, hope it helps.

right side engine near rear jug

Don't mean to sound nasty but I thought new hogs have on board compressor to keep shocks,front and rear filled up?Your shocks need air maybe compressor aint working?Just a guess,sorry.

ZIP

Apply LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE to the spark plug threads. Install and tighten to 12-18 ft-lbs (16.3-24.4 Nm).

Need more description than that. Are you above minimum speed, in 3rd gear or higher etc etc Are fuses all okay??? What DTCs are set??

What do you want to change. There is only one neutral light. Is it not working??? An LED pack and need to change the whole unit if it is bad.

That could certainly be PART of a DTC, what is the rest of it?? Is it possibly P1353 which is priority 75 and is Front cylinder no combustion detected What are your problems/symptoms???

To remove a 2008 Touring rear wheel FIRST raise the bike with the rear wheel off the ground, remove the saddlebags, inspect the wheel bearings, remove the left side muffler,on (FLHX) models equipped with low profile shock absorbers the remove left side lower saddlebag support rail, if ABS equipped cut the cable strap to release the rear wheel speed sensor cable from the brake hose to the brake caliper, remove the two socket head screws to release the brake caliper from its bracket, remove the brake caliper from the brake disc, pry the inner and outer brake pads back for additional clearance as necessary using a stiff putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid scoring or scratching the brake disc, set the brake caliper on the passenger footboard, remove the E-clip from the groove at the end of the axle, loosen the cone with an AXLEfNUT TORQUE ADAPTER available from JIMs or H-D to get up between the axle nut and the right side muffler, remove the cone nut and adjuster cam from the axle, rotate the weld nut on the opposite side of the axle in a counterclockwise direction until the wheel is loose, use a soft metal drift to tap the axle towards the left side of motorcycle and catch the external spacer(s) (noting their place and orientation for reinstallation), pull the axle free of the rear swingarm, the caliper bracket, the rear wheel speed sensorf(if ABS equipped), and the wheel hub, keeping the ABS wheel speed sensor and ABS encoder bearing away from al magnetic fields such as magnetic parts trays, magnetic base dial indicators, alternator rotors, etc etc to avoid destroying them, remove the caliper bracket from the anchor weldment on the rear swingarm, move the wheel forward and slip the belt off from the compensator drive sprocket, hold onto the compensator drive sprocket while removing the rear wheel so that the isolators will not fall out, if necessary, remove to remove the brake disc remove the five fasteners and release the disc from the hub after marking the disc and the hub for re-assembly alignment in their original position. To install a 2008 touring rear wheel FIRST reinstall the brake disc in its original orientation if it was removed and tighten the fasteners alternatively to 30-45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm), ensure that the compensator sprocket is square and fully seated in its proper position, put the wheel into the rear swingarm and slide it forward and put the belt over compensator sprocket and then move the wheel back to take up the slack in the belt, install the caliper bracket on the anchor weldment of the rear swingarm, apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease onto the axle, the bearing bores and the bore of the spacer sleeve, insert the axle through the left side of the rear swingarm, the thin external spacer, and the rear wheel drive compensator sprocket into the and through the wheel hub left side and out the right side, through the rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped) (the grooves on the external spacer, or index pin on the wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped), are on the outboard side) or the thick external spacer if not ABS equipped, the caliper bracket, and the right side of the swingarm, rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside and then with the thumb down and the cam forward install the adjuster cam on the end of the axle, avoiding contact with threads apply a thin film of LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE lubricant to the inboard side of the cone nut, install the cone nut on the axle finger tight, obtain torque wrench with 1/2 inch drive head and the AXLE NUT TORQUE ADAPTER, install the torque adapter perpendicular to torque wrench ONLY or applied torque will be inaccurate, insert the tool up between rear wheel and the muffler and onto the cone nut, verify that the adjustment cam just contacts the weld nub on both sides of the swingarm (if necessary, push the wheel forward somewhat to do this), if ABS equipped route the sensor cable forward and outboard of the caliper bracket and then continue forward with it following the top of the swingarm, rotate the wheel speed sensor in a counter-clockwise direction until its index pin makes contact with the caliper bracket at its proper contact point, tighten the cone nut to 15-20 ft-lbs (20-27 Nm), properly position and install the brake caliper, align the holes in the caliper with the holes in the caliper bracket install the two socket head screws and alternately tighten them to 43-48 ft-lbs (58.3-65.1 Nm), install a new cable strap 1.25 in. (31.8 mm) in front of the brake hose crimp capturing the rear wheel speed sensor cable and brake hose together, using a belt tension gauge adjust the drive deflection to FLHR/C 3/8-7/16 inches or 9.5-11.1mm; FLHT/C/U FLTR FLHX 1/4-5/16 inches or 6.4-7.9 mm at the loosest spot in the belt, holding the weld nut on the left side of the axle tighten the cone nut to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), loosen it nut one full turn, retighten it to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), recheck the belt deflection, install a newE-clip in groove on right side of axle with the flat side out, on (FLHX), models with low profile shock absorbers properly install and torque into place the left side lower saddlebag support rail, install left side muffler, verify that the exhaust pipes are in alignment and do not contact the vehicle frame or mounted components, tighten the TORCA clamp to 45-60 ft-lbs (61-81 Nm), pump the brakes to position the pad against the brake disc, install the saddlebags and road test the motorcycle for proper operation.

Recommended Suspension Air Pressure: FLHX, FLTRX, FLHR/C SHOCK LOAD TOTAL WEIGHT PRESSURE LB. KGPSI kPa Solo rider up to 150 up to 680 0 150-200 68-91 0-10 0-69 200-250 91-113 10-20 69-138 250-300 113-136 20-30 138-206 over 300over 136 30-50 206-345 Solo rider with capacity luggage of 40 lbs (18 kg) up to 150 up to 68 10-20 69-138 150-200 68-91 20-30 138-206 200-250 91-113 30-40 206-276 250-300 113-136 40-50 276-345 over 300 over 136 50 345 Rider plus passenger ALL ALL 40-50 276-345 Maximum GVWR ALL ALL 50 PSI 345 kPa If Tour-Pak is installed, add 5-10 psi (34-69 kPa) to shock pressure. Do not exceed 50 psi (345 kPa) suspension pressure.

Are you asking about rear shocks or front forks???

To remove a 2008 touring starter FIRST remove the seat disconnect and remove the battery negative cable (black) from battery negative (-) terminal, remove the starter front and rear mounting screws with captive washers, remove the Keps nut from the stud of the bracket tab and remove the exhaust support bracket, pull back the rubber boot and remove the hex nut from the battery Post, remove the battery positive and the main power cable ring terminals, remove the starter solenoid connector at the front of the starter, remove the engine oil filler cap/dipstick and cover the fill spout opening with a clean shop cloth or towel to keep out foreign objects/material, to facilitate starter removal, if necessary, remove the two worm drive clamps to release the heat shield from the rear header pipe, remove the starter from the motorcycle carefully sliding it out through the space between the rear exhaust header pipe and the side cover exercising caution to avoid losing the two ring dowels that are somewhat loosely installed in the primary chaincase (or starter) flange. To install a 2008 touring starter FIRST verify that the two ring dowels are installed in the primary chaincase (or starter) flange, lubricate the o-ring on the starter and lubricate the bore of the primary chaincase with a light film of clean primary chaincase lubricant, carefully slide the starter in through the space between the rear exhaust header pipe and the side cover and with the starter solenoid connector at the front, move the starter into its installed position, remove the shop cloth or towel covering the oil fill spout and install the engine oil filler cap/dipstick at the top of the transmission case, install the slot of the exhaust support bracket onto the stud of the bracket tab aligning the other holes with those in the starter flange, start the Keps nut onto the stud, engage the hole in the exhaust support bracket, install the starter front mounting screw with captive washer, install the starter rear mounting screw with its captive washer and alternatively tighten the starter front and rear mounting screws to 25-27 ft-lbs (33.9-36.6 Nm), tighten the Keps nut on the stud of the bracket tab to 12-15 ft lbs(16.3-20.3 Nm), install the main power and battery positive cable ring terminals onto the battery positive post, install the hex nut and tighten it to 70-90 inlbs(7.9-10.2 Nm), pull down the rubber boot over the terminal connections, install the starter solenoid connector at the front of the starter, if removed, install the three worm drive clamps to secure the heat shield to rear header pipe, tighten the clamp screws to 20-40 inlbs(2.3-4.5 Nm), insert the bolt through the battery negative cable (black) into the threaded hole of the battery negative (-) terminal and tighten the bolt to 60-96 in-lbs (6.8-10.9 Nm) and reinstall the seat.