20 Most Recent 2003 Harley Davidson FXSTS Springer Softail Questions & Answers

there must be a earth connection it should be connected to the motor and frame ,have a look around your battery area there should be one there if it was running ,if it is a project bike then you will have to put in earth wires cheers

possibly need hotter plugs

Best bet just change your speedo , it's cheaper and harley can set your correct miles

Actually, overfilling tends to cause it to "puke" out fluid, due to internal pressure building up.In severe cases, it can force past gasket(s) to the point the gaskets need replacing.

well on a car that would be thrust bearing so must be similer thing

I don't know what plug you're taking out but it's evidently the wrong one. If you'll look at the oil tank from the right side of the bike, on the backside down at the bottom of the tank you'll see a hose. Follow this hose down behind the transmission and back out just below the transmission. The hose either dead ends there with a plug in it or it connects to the crossmember of the frame that runs across below the transmission. If the hose connects to the crossmember, the drain plug is directly underneath the point where the hose connects. I hope this helps.

Good Luck
Steve

Your late model bike does not have a Bendix like the older bikes. Doesn't have the conventional solenoid either. It has a Nippondenso type starter. The solenoid is actually part of the starter assembly. Instead of a Bendix, it has what is called an "over running clutch" that does the same thing as the Bendix. Basically, it's a one-way bearing or sprag unit. It is inside the starter assembly and to replace it you must disassemble the starter. The symptoms of this going bad is you'll hear the starter spinning but the engine will not turn over.

Now, if you're only hearing a click and the starter is not spinning, you may have to replace the electrical contacts inside the solenoid. They're are easy to replace. Just pull the plate off the back of the solenoid by taking out the tree small 3mm screws. Pull the plunger and spring out and you'll see the large copper contacts. Harley and aftermarket manufacturers offer the replacement parts kits. The job can by done without taking the starter off the engine most of the time.

Hope this helps,
Good Luck
Steve

Find the oil drain. It's located below the transmission on the frame behind the exhaust pipes. It may be a hose with a plug in it or the hose my plug onto the crossmember of the frame in that area. If it's in the crossmember, the drain plug is underneath the crossmember. Remove the plug and drain the oil. Replace the oil filter with a new one. Refill the oil tank with three quarts of 20W50 oil. Check the oil after your run the engine long enough to get it to normal operating temp. There are two marks on the dipstick. The top mark is "FULL HOT" the lower mark is "FULL COLD". Do not overfill and check the oil with the bike on the side stand.

To change the oil in your primary, Look below the rear of the outer primary cover way back where the clutch is loctated. Drain the oil and remove the derby cover. Stand the bike straight up and refill the primary with H-D Primary Lube. Fill the primary until the level of oil is just below the lowest portion of the clutch spring in the clutch pack. Do not overfill as the clutch will drag and you will not be able to find neutral position in the transmission with the engine running. About a quart of lube is sufficient.

The transmission drain is a pipe plug on the right side of the transmission. Drain and refill with 20-24 ounces of H-D transmission lube.

Your bike originally came from the factory with H-D Syn3 synthetic 20W50 engine oil in all three areas.

Good Luck
Steve

Hard to tell what engine sounds mean, from your description. But they should sound similar.
Issues on newer machine are valve tapping. But hey, you could be talking about exhaust system....

If the starter just spins but doesn't turn the engine over, it's probably your "over running clutch" that's bad. You can replace that part and save yourself some money if you know how to do it. But, if you've got to pay shop labor rates, just purchase a new starter. The time involved taking the starter apart and replacing the clutch will eat up any savings you might have realized.

Good Luck
Steve

there's no real easy way out if your axle is seized in there. You need to fiind a really big hammer, brace your front end up against some thing, and give the axle a good whack until it comes out. Unscrew the nut so its level with the axle. You just gunna have to keep wacking until it comes out. Try spraying some penitrating oil and letting it soak. It will come out, eventualy. The worst thing that can happen is you will need to buy a new front axle. Remember to grease it when you put it back. Also make sure any axle clamps are loose.

Sounds like it's time to rebuild your rear master cylinder or something needs lubricating. The rear brake pedal should have a rather large spring on it. If so and it's not returning to position, you need to take the pedal off and lubricate the pivot post.

Now, if your pedal is returning but the master cylinder is not releasing, it's time for a rebuild. There is a spring inside the master cylinder that pushes the piston back. But, if the master cylinder is all crudded up on the inside, it can't push it back. This could be caused by mixing DOT5 and DOT4 brake fluid.

Good Luck
Steve

a bent disc or bad wheel bearing can push the pads back, and you need to pump it for the brakes to work, or it requires a seal kit in the rear brake master cylnder

the oil in the breather .
remove the breather filter. after this gets straightened out, you can either replace it or clean it and put it back on.
replace the spark plugs . gap to .042".
old gas in the carb, you will need to remove the float bowl, clean out all the varnish (gunk), including the slow and main jet, discard the fuel in the fuel tank and replace it with fresh fuel.
before trying to start the bike again, add a length of 3/8" oil line to the breather hose and stick it into the oil bag filler neck.
start the bike and run until the breather quits pumping oil, then remove the added hose and place a drip pan under the end the breather hose to catch the rest of the drips.

This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

the easiest way is to remove the front wfeel this will give you access to the four bolts that secure the gaurd remove bolts while steadying the gaurd you dont want it falling of when you undo the last bolt