2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

PN 67349-04A is for the 4" speedometer. So what's your question?

Gordon gives the answer Put the original key or known working key in the ignition switch with a little bit of pressure in towards the on position, while holding the key that way wiggle the front end by holding on to one of the grips at the same time. Doing this will help the key to turn by allowing it to line up, and push a little bit of debris (foreign particles) out of the way. Spray WD40 or similar product with a nozzle tube down around the thin clearance before trying the key it will flush it out and lube the fine lock pins if they're dirty and hanging up. A side note: after it turns for you check the torque or service the front-end bearings.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Cars and Trucks. Does it have the factory security system? https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+eletra+glide+classic+anti-theft+reset ..

Usually under the seat Here's what they look like:

Get scanned the computer of your car. It will provide the precise diagnostics of the issue

Pull the speedo sensor and clean it if that doesn't work replace the speedo sensor

Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/239810-how-do-i-set-the-time-flhtcui.html#:~:text=RE%3A%20How%20do%20I%20set%20the%20time%2C%20FLHTCUI,-This%20is%20from&text=With%20the%20ignition%20on%2C%20turn,and%20time%20down%20adjustment%20option. http://www.mediafire.com/file/a9pvi3kbxhkfla2/2000+Harley+Davidson+Touring+Models+Service+Manual.pdf https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300?highlight=1998+sportster+owner https://www.6ya.com/

Hi, Tom, the best way to jump-start your bike is to use a jumper battery and cables, if available, before trying to push start: 1. Your battery connections must be clean and tight. 2. Jumper cables should have 8 or 6 gauge wire. 3. Only use a known good fully charged jumper battery. 4. When jumping from an automobile the engine "MUST" be off. 5. Connect the positive cable first. 6. Let the bike battery charge for 1 minute before starting. 7. Once the bike has started, remove the negative cable first. 8. If no battery is available you can try to push start. 9. Always look for a downhill slope if available. 10. Shift into 2nd gear clutch in and have someone push you then stand up on the footpegs and slam your buttocks into the seat exactly at the same time let the clutch lever out. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61sNSoiI_JI http://www.mediafire.com/file/a9pvi3kbxhkfla2/2000+Harley+Davidson+Touring+Models+Service+Manual.pdf https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300?highlight=1998+sportster+owner https://www.6ya.com/

Hi, Louie for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/frame-suspension-front-end-brakes/1299768-1997-electra-glide-speedometer-cable-routing.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/psme4gc9nmbabvs/1997_Harley_Touring_Service_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300?highlight=1998+sportster+owner https://www.6ya.com/how-6ya-works to speak to me personally.

Sooner or later, every bike will need a new chain and sprockets. Once a chain begins to wear, its pitch changes and wears the sprocket teeth. Then the chain begins to wear even faster. Then it's time for a new chain, and a new pair of sprockets. The rear wheel on my motorcycle had been misaligned (I had used the inaccurate etched indicators on the swingarm-rather than a ruler against the sprocket-to set wheel alignment) and ridden hard through a gritty, salty winter. The rear sprocket was in rough shape, and the chain was making lots of popping sounds as the bike went down the road. Changing a chain is a fairly basic job that requires a chain breaker / riveting tool and whatever is needed to remove the rear wheel and sprockets. It's nice to have a blow torch and a torque wrench on hand for this job, too. The ingenious Terra-X chain tool is made in Australia out of tool steel, and weighs just 150 grams. A big hollow bolt threads into the bigger of the two holes, and is used when pressing outer plates onto new master links. A smaller bolt with a pin can thread into the hollow bolt, and is used to push link pins out of old chains or to peen new master link pins by pushing them against a grub screw threaded into the steel body's other hole. That little grub screw with a rounded steel end screws into the smaller hole of the chain breaker. It fits into and peens the hole of the new master link. When changing a chain, the first step is to loosen the bolts on the front sprocket. It's good to get those loose while the chain is still on the bike, partly to avoid putting undue stress on the transmission, and partly to avoid getting deep into the job and finding that the front sprocket bolts are stuck. In this case, the small allen bolts needed a bit of heat to come undone. After the bolts are loose, it's time to break the chain. With the Terra-X chain tool, you remove the small grub screw and use the small bolt with the pin to push out one of the chain's pins. No grunting or swearing required. Then comes sprocket replacement. Six nuts on the rear sprocket, the two bolts on the front sprocket, and that step is done. I had a torque wrench handy, so I could get the torque values just right when putting everything back together. The next step is the big one: installing the master link that joins the ends of the new chain together. The master link comes with a little bag with some X-Rings, a master link, and some sticky tan lube. Smear the lube on the pins and inside the X-Rings, then begin to assemble the master link around the two ends of the chain, making sure to get the X-Rings in the right spots. Pressing the outer plate onto the master link is the hardest part of the job. I removed the pin bolt from the Terra-X tool and used the hollow bolt to push the outer plate onto the master link's pins. It took a few tries, but eventually I got it in the correct position. After the sprockets are on and the master link is in position, the master link's pins need to be peened. With the Terra-X, the pin bolt pushes the master link pin against the grub screw's steel ball, and flares the pin. It takes a lot of effort-mostly because it's not easy to get a lot of leverage on tools when they're underneath a motorcycle. Position the wheel for proper chain tension, torque everything to the correct specs, and you're back on the road. The new chain is smooth, nearly silent, and ready for thousands of miles of high-speed running.

come on check oil level or buy a honda

You can reinstall IF you replace each pushrod in the exact same location it came out of, as they are different lengths

Who made the kit? Is it a true trike kit or one of these kits that leaves the original swingarm and rear wheel on and simply adds two more wheels to the rear. Either way, I'd contact the manufacturer of the kit and see what they had to say. It sounds like the rake on the front end has changed or the center of gravity has changed.

Good Luck
Steve

Hi John: Greg Mahin will probably be able to help you. I'd be suspicious that there may be an electrical problem with the fuel pump, but that's only because you said there is one. All my Harleys were gravity fed carbs. Would it be possible to check the fuel pump for a bad ground? Cheers.

Change the wires around. I had same prob on my 94 flhtcu. Now gauge works properly and light doesnt come on.

Under the seat or in front of the rear fender.

So it's tight but not over tight ...

I know it sounds like a really silly thing to ask someone who seems as qualified as you but did you check the compression release and make sure it was not stuck open?

either you got a bad ground, or bad main wire or you spots are too high of amps. for the wiring!

you should have a adjustment screw up top by throttle with locking nuts lossen lock nut then screw outward to tighten and inward to lossen