Top 20 2011 kawasaki KLX 250 Questions & Answers

if it is a water cooled engine the ring gap at the bottom of the cylinder should be around .010" rings have to be installed the correct way up or the compression doesn't help push the rings against the cylinder walls for effective seal piston skirts will touch the cylinder walls as the pressure pushes the piston to one side as it pushes the piston back down the cylinder I have to ask did you put an old piston back in the new cylinder was the new cylinder standard size or over size what was the ring gap before you fitted them to the piston did you use new rings or the old ones --maximum rin gap is .025" rings don't wear in , just wear out why did you replace the cylinder in the first place was it because of low compression or taper wear as silly as all this seams it is all very relevant to your question

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Buy a manual from a company such as "Haynes" or "Clymer" these will give you all of the diagrams you require for all systems amd models.

Dan, this sounds like your battery may be the culprit. The starter drains any power the battery has left. Bump starting does not require power from the battery, DO NOT try to jump it from a car!

Question edited for full make and model. Question moved from Garden category. Yes, that is something to do with the electrics, probably ignition system somewhere. Also check plug condition and especially to see if the spark gap is too wide. https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+Kawasaki+Sherpa+starts+and+dies ..

If I am not mistaken,,, the KLX is a 4 stroke motor and the KX is a two stroke motor....>>? So, NO!!!!!!

We used to buy premix from the dealer, although now I just use a 50/50 mix of Halfords 500ML coolant and water.

By "flicking" sounds, do you mean a series of rapid "clicks"? Usually a series of rapid clicks when trying to start is an indication of low battery voltage, or a bad electrical connection, usually a ground. Get an automotive jumper cable (use only ONE of the leads, let's say the BLACK one), hook one end to the battery NEGATIVE terminal, and the other end to a bolt head that mounts the starter motor to the engine case, and see if that helps. If so, it is a ground issue. An old time Harley trick is to attach a SECOND ground cable to the battery negative terminal, and the other end, remove one starter mounting bolt, slip the bolt through the cable "eye", and reinstall the bolt. The problem in this case is that most bike engines are made out of aluminum. While aluminum WILL conduct electrical current, it's NOT the best conductor in the world. This is why copper jumper cables are much better than aluminum ones, and why they found out (the hard way) that aluminum wiring in a house is no good! NOW, if when you try to start and you get a SINGLE click, this usually means either a bad starter relay, or bad starter solenoid.

remove choke cable and lubricate with machine oil

with the engine cold take the cap off of the radiator and lean the bike over to one side and listen for gurggling sounds. there could be air bubbles trapped in system. with the cap off start the bike and see if the coolant is circulating. it's probably a bad radiator cap. It's not holding pressure when hot to let the system work right. i think it has a 1.1 cap, maybe get a 1.6 cap and see if it helps

check for a bad radiator cap. if it's bad it won't hold pressure enough to let the system work

take cam cover off , take ignition cover off and find tdc with a rod in the plug hole and you can feel it at top , measure the up down motion and half it , the tdc should show up on flywheel , ignition happens b4 tdc at a set degree , temp set a few deg b4 and adjust slowly till engine runs smooth ! dont know exact timing but this will help get started !P....

1. Make sure fuel is freely flowing from gas tank. 2, Take carb to a professional and have him clean and set it - especially the float level.

Can I put electric start on a KXF 250 2006

Yes

.028 -.030 inches or 0.7-0.8 mm

yes it should fit with maybe a little modification

if there like most... remove the front axle and wheel and loosen the bottom fork support and then the top one slide out one shock at a time and replace the boot and reassemble the oil is inside the shock. if the top support is the oil fill for the shock then carefully slide out the shock and replace the oil fill cap bolt then replace the boot and reverse the process.

The 300 kit should produce more power, and you may need to rejet the carby to match the 300 kit
A good after market muffler also increases power
A needle and slide will not produce more power, unless the current ones are very worn and supplying the incorrect mixture.

Is the neutral light on? Check to make sure it's in neutral and also make sure the kill switch on the handlebar is on.