20 Most Recent
2005 KTM 65 SX Questions & Answers
How to take front sprocket off
Take off front sprocket casing and gear lever,..leave on chain until you have loosened the sprocket retaining nut, there may be a tab washer on the shaft,..if so,use a screwdriver and knock off the edge
put the back brake on while loosening the nut...
Tuning specs for carb on 2005 ktm 65 . air screw
Hi there mate,
turn the tick over screw and the air screw all the way in,
then turn the air screw out 1 full turn,
then turn the tick over screw out say 3 turns
then try and start the bike if it dos not start keep turning the tick over screw out buy 1 turn till it will tick over,
I need to know the correct carburetor float level
All carburators work axcitly the same . The float level is dertermined by the amount of fuel in the float bowl . When the fuel level reaches a point in the bowl the floats rise and shut of the neddle valve until the engine can draw enough fuel out of the bowl to drop the floats so the neddle valve opens again to supply the bowl with fuel to make the engine run its fool proof . If your haveing an over flow issue where fuel is running out the tube on the sides then pull the carb and clean it you shouldn;t need any parts just a can of carb cleaner and always clean the air filter that how dirt gets in .Good luck with it
I have a 1998 ktm 65 sx I just bought it when we
Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
The first thing we need to do is eliminate the possibility that the shift lever is not interfering with anything limiting it's travel into the top three gear positions. It's possible that the lever is bent or has been incorrectly re-installed on the wrong spline position.
That being said, we more than likely have a problem with a bent shifting fork, a pall, or a shift rail, maybe even a broken gear.. There is also a good possibility the engine has been previously disassembled and not had parts replaced and the engine did not get re-assembled correctly. You will have to remove the engine and split the case to inspect the shafts, shifting forks, spacers, and shifting drum to correct the problem. This link will take you to the complete shop repair manual for this bike. Check the section 4 beginning on page 36-37.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/44875530/20355873-1998-03-KTM-60-65SX-Service-Manual
You may have to make some holding parts and/or rent some pullers but it's not to bad of a project. A good KTM Shop can always fix the problem but it's expensive. This is a great little bike. I'm sorry it's having problems.
Thanks again for contacting FixYa.
TF
Torque settigs on cylinder and
Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry. I have been going
over some of the older help requests that have been archieved and
trying to provide solutions for those that didn't get answered. Hope
this information helps.
KTM Torque settings
- Collar screw, front wheel spindle Front axle nut 40Nm 30ft lbs
- Brake Caliper front Brake Caliper front Loctite 243 2 19ft lbs
- Brake Disk, front Brake disk front Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
- Brake Disk, rear Brake disk rear Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
- Clamping screws, upper fork bridge Top triple clamp 20Nm 15ft lbs
- Clamping screws, lower fork bridge Bottom triple clamp 15Nm 11ft lbs
- Clamping screws, fork stubs Front axle pinch bolts 10Nm 7ft lbs
- Collar nut, rear wheel spindle Rear axle nut 80Nm 59ft lbs
- Hex nut swingarm bolt Swingarm nut 100Nm 74ft lbs
- Hex collar screw handlebar clamp Upper handlebar clamps 20Nm 15ft lbs
- Allen head screw handlebar support Lower handlebar clamps Loctite 243 4 30ft lbs
- Shock absorber top Shock absorber top bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
- Shock absorber bottom Shock absorber bottom bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
- Sprocket screws Rear sprocket bolts Loctite 243 3 25ft lbs
- Ball joint for push rod Rear brake pedal pivot Loctite 243 1 7ft lbs
- Engine mounting bolts Engine mounting bolts 45Nm 33ft lbs
- Engine brace Engine brace 33Nm 24ft lbs
- Screw adjusting ring spring preload Shock preload collar bolt 8Nm 6ft lbs
- Spoke nipple Spokes 5Nm 4ft lbs
- Other Screws on chassis M6 10Nm 7ft lbs
- M8 25Nm 19ft lbs
- M10 45Nm 33ft lbs
- Other collar nuts on chassis M6 15Nm 11ft lbs
- M8 30Nm 22ft lbs
- M10 50Nm 37ft lbs
- Front Sprocket 44ft lbs
I have a 2010 ktm
Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
Low power or stalling at start is usually air/fuel related. You have taken care of most of the things that effect the bottom end power band. Some other things you might consider:
- Check the air vent tube on top of the tank to make sure it's not pinched or restricted.
- Clean the fuel tap. May have sediment or debris. Some have a filter screen. Clean it.
- Clean the air filter and air box. Check the rubber boot for cracks or air leaks. Clamp??
- Exhaust system - Check for leaks or fiber fallen from the muffler.
- Check the diaphragm or reed valve for cracks or reed problems
- Check the timing or fault with the ignition system. Is something loose.
- Screw in the idle jet all the way and back it out to 1 1/2 turns.
Jetting: (Tons of options with a Mikuni)
In general, the main jet is for high rpms and top speed running.
Needle effects the mid range to about 3/4 throttle.
Idle jet effects the bottom end. 3 sizes exist 20, 25, 30.
Drill down from this link for part numbers:
http://cyclehuttktm.com/FicheFinderNew/FicheFinder.aspx
2010 > 65 SX > ENGINE > CARBURETOR
Let us know if we can provide further information.
Kind regards,
TF
HOW TO REMOVE CLUTCH ON
If you just want to remove and replace the clutch plates then no special tools required just open the cover remove the pressure plate bolts and start removing old plates and then replace with new ones in exactly same way - tip with installing new clutch plates - soak them in oil few hours at least best over night before you install them back in -
If how ever you want the clutch hub and clutch basket off as well for some reason then you will need a clutch holding tool as well as you rarely could undo the lock nuts with out it
when changing your clutch plates go slowly take care and special notice to how it is all coming apart. from model to model sometimes there can be a little spacer or little spring or little ball bearing somewhere that with out care and attention may fall on the floor so go slow give notice to the order of the parts as they come out and you will have no dramas at all, as is reasonably simple job to do
good luck regards Jamie
2010 ktm 65 bike hesitates
It sounds like moving the main needle clip position may solve this if it's jetted properly. Remove the slide assembly from the top of the carb, pull back the spring and remove the cable. There will be a retainer clip that holds the e-clip and the needle in the slide. Remove that clip and the needle will slide out. Note the original position of the e-clip on the needle, remove it and move it down 1 position. This will raise the needle in the main jet and richen the mixture on acceleration. Reinstall and repeat adjustment until satisfactory acceleration is achieved.
If moving the needle position doesn't solve it, a larger main jet is required. Put the e-clip back to it's original position. Remove the main jet thru the 17mm drain bolt in the bottom of the carb, note the size stamped on it and get the next larger size. A selection of main and pilot jets a couple sizes up and down from stock is always handy to keep around with the 2-strokes as they are sensitve to temperature change.
Always check the condition of the spark plug when making jetting changes. Start with a fresh plug and run it for 10 min at normal riding RPM. Tan is good, black is rich and white is too lean. A lean condition is really bad and must be corrected immediatly. Good luck!
No spark
Check the igniter box and the CDI clearance, Try to change the spark plugs also.
LC4 640 SMC. Why no spark?
Have you checked battery connections. Run switch in the correct position? Checked spark plug for debris? Just thinking out loud..
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