Hi, Tiny before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed, depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
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There are a few things to check. I would check the spark plug wire where it connects to the spark plug and the other end of the spark plug wire where it connects to its power source. Both should be firmly attached. Also, inspect them for corrosion and cleanliness.
Check the gasoline tank, it might have ran out of gasoline.
Finally, follow the fuel line from the gas tank to the engine.
When you attempt to kick start it, does the engine turn over or not? If not, the the engine is locked because it is seized up, or it is in gear.
If it does turn over, then look at your head light while attempting to start it... if it dims some - that is normal, but if it dims a lot - your battery may be weak. Please reply with some more information! Thanks!
The Power Steering has failed. There has been a factory recall for a suddenly failing electrical steering shaft, that could cause the rider to loose control. This does not have to be your problem but anyhow either the electronics or the pump failed. Error codes or messages usually have to be erased by a simple reset procedure or disconnecting a plug, after repairs are done.
Question edited for clarity, but no idea what you mean by -
"What do I need to do to get the gay? The clutching gauge in again?"
You issue is probably that all the clutch plates are glued together. Leaving a bike for 21 years will do that.
https://www.google.com/search?q=1985+Honda+Gold+Wing+1200+stuck+clutch
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Question edited for clarity.
The RC26 has a few modifications, but nothing that should alter the wiring.
1986-1987 - VFR700F / VFR700F2 (RC26)
The "Tariff Buster"[ 700cc VFR700F was almost identical to the 750cc version, with minor changes to graphics (no 750 on the lower fairing), shorter stroke, different cams, and altered ignition timing.Otherwise the VFR700F2 was mechanically the same as the standard F, but had an upgraded rear shock and fork internals alongside square gauges.
Wiring diagrams and manuals
https://www.google.com/search?q=1987+honda+vfr+700f+wiring+diagram
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For a 1999 Honda CBR929RR, the cylinder head bolt torque specifications are essential to ensure proper engine assembly and function. When tightening the cylinder head bolts, it's crucial to follow the manufacturer's recommended torque settings to prevent damage to the engine components.
For the CBR929RR, the cylinder head bolt torque specifications are typically as follows:
1. **Initial Torque:** 29 Nm (2.9 kgf-m, 22 ft-lbs)
2. **Final Torque:** 64 Nm (6.4 kgf-m, 47 ft-lbs)
It's essential to tighten the cylinder head bolts in the specified sequence and in multiple stages, gradually increasing the torque until reaching the final specified torque. The exact tightening sequence can usually be found in the service manual specific to your motorcycle model.
When torquing the head bolts, ensure you're using a reliable torque wrench calibrated in the appropriate units (Nm or ft-lbs). Always follow the tightening sequence precisely to ensure even pressure distribution across the cylinder head gasket.
Additionally, it's advisable to use new cylinder head bolts if the old ones have been previously tightened or stretched beyond their yield point. This helps maintain proper clamping force and ensures the integrity of the engine assembly.
As always, referring to the service manual or consulting a professional mechanic experienced with motorcycle engine assembly can provide additional guidance and ensure the correct torque settings are applied during the cylinder head installation process.
. One possibility is that the spark plug or plug wire is faulty 1. Another possibility is that the carburetor needs cleaning and adjustment It could also be due to a valve adjustment issue or a bent rod.
I would recommend taking your motorcycle to a professional mechanic who can diagnose and fix the issue. If you prefer to troubleshoot it yourself, you can start by checking the spark plug and plug wire for any damage or wear and cleaning the carburetor. However, please note that working on a motorcycle engine can be dangerous and requires specialized knowledge and tools. Please take all necessary safety precautions and follow the manufacturer's instructions when working on your motorcycle.
The problem might be with the air filter, and if not there are a few other things that could be causing your Shadow engine to bog down on acceleration. This includes a dirty carburetor, carb adjustment issues, or other internal problems like damaged vacuum lines or a cracked manifold
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You can go to our downloads and grab yourself a copy! Download the Honda C102 Service Manual in the following format: pdf Service manual for Honda C102 (1.93 MB).
