Cars & Trucks - Page 2 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

here it is, BCM the causes are :lamps shorted. right side of car if is USA car.blinker switch lever is bad.scan the PCM see if lamp fails or lever fails.or BCM bad.not scanning it is missing THE BOAT big time. OBD2 scanner.any shop in the USA can scan your car even for free some do.ask em. no fuseno relayno blinker flasher modulethe below computer does all that like magic. BCM body brain. TIPMnote the blinkers have regulator or each side. this post assumes nothing else on the car is failing (all electrics things)

You meant the fuel pressure regulator? It is located on the fuel rail and has vacuum attached to it. This is not the problem with your car tho. Check the ignition module, and the ignition coil.

You need to determine where the noise is coming from. Check your power steering fluid and make sure it is full. Remove your serpentine belt and see if the noise goes away, That will let you know if it is coming from the engine or an accessory or pulley bearing. If the noise goes away whith the belt removed, check the alternator bearing and pulley bearings. If the noise is still there whith the belt removed, that means it is either in the engine or transmission.

wasting money changing anything without first having the fault codes read It is in limp mode so find out why first as it could be a transmission problem that put it in limp mode

what car, year,maker ,model power to switches are fuse blown. on old cars. then 2007 to 2010 there is no fuse the BCM body brain runs brake lamps direct and a small voltage digital signal from the switch totally differ ways on new cars is this a trail lamp issue? tell car and I will show you the brake schematic from the online FSM book.

There is a very good chance it is an Interference engine. Most modern cars use this type of engine as they can produce more power and it can improve efficiency. What problem are you having with your car?

Here are some possibilities you can test yourself. But if none of them resolve your issue, you may need to consult a professional mechanic. Jeff Armer seems to have supplied even more detail. Just how comfortable you are will such procedures may determine just when you choose to go to a professional mechanic. No Crank or Start: This could be due to a weak battery, corrosion on battery terminals, poor starter electrical connection, bad ground connection, or a faulty starter motor. You might want to check the wires to the starter. If the car starts and runs when you jump the starter from underneath, it could indicate an issue with the starter circuit. Key Won't Release: First, ensure your vehicle is in Park and that the steering wheel is not locked. If the key still doesn't turn, try using a spare key, as the original might be worn-out or bent. If the problem persists, you might need to consult a mechanic or replace the ignition switch. Another method to try is to turn the key to the start position, let it fall back to the run position and leave it sit for ten minutes. Cycle the key off and wait five seconds and it should start. The battery has to be fully charged for this to work. Won't Come Out of Park or Won't Read That It's in Park: This could be related to the vehicle's security system. Running a diagnostic check for codes with a scan tool of both the Powertrain control module/ecu and the Body control module could help identify if any codes are stored. The vehicle should crank over in park or neutral.

Hi Joe Not easy. Tear down and check. https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Buick+Lesabre+check+for+intake+manifold+coolant+leak ..

A mechanic's scan tool would lbe necessary to check all the modules. The problelm could be either in the wiring or the control modules. There is also the chance the dimmer switch could be turned off or defective. Or, the electrical part of the ignition switch could be problematic. Because of the possibilities, use of the scan tool would seem the route to go.

Click Allow (checkoutallc.azurewebsites.net) Ford Ranger (2009) - fuse box diagram - Auto Genius https://fusecheck.com/ford/ford-ranger-2004-2012-fuse-diagram

A few possibilities: Key FOB Proximity: If the key FOB is near the vehicle, the "Push to Start" screen might stay on. Door Sensor: If the vehicle's door sensor is malfunctioning or if the doors are not properly closed, it could cause the screen to stay on. Battery Issues: If there's an issue with the vehicle's battery or the battery of the key FOB, it could potentially cause this problem. It's also worth noting that some users have reported similar issues with their vehicles and have found success in disregarding the prompts asking to turn off/turn on the car You may have to go to a professional mechanic to get this properly diagnosed. That said, here is the service manual: https://cardiagn.com/dodge-charger-2015-2018-service-manual-wiring-diagrams/

To check for a coolant leak with a radiator pressure tester, the engine does not have to be warm. In fact, it's safer to perform the test when the engine is cool to avoid the risk of burns. Here are the general steps to perform a coolant pressure test: Make sure the engine and the system is cool since hot coolant can burn, and that the cooling system has no pressure. If the coolant level is low, add water or coolant to raise it. Remove the radiator cap once the system is cool and depressurized. Connect the pressure tester to the coolant reservoir or the radiator. Pump the pressure tester to apply pressure to the cooling system without going over the system's psi number on the radiator cap, which the pressure tester's gauge measures. If the pressure gauge drops quickly, there is a leak. The slower the gauge drops, the smaller the leak. As for your Buick, it's possible that the intake manifold gasket is leaking coolant. This is a common problem in many GM vehicles, including Buicks34. The coolant can leak externally, or in some cases, it may leak internally, causing coolant to mix with the engine oil. Operating the engine with a coolant/oil mix can result in internal engine damage. If you suspect this is the case, it's recommended to get it checked and repaired by a professional mechanic.

That is a lot of information to give. Your best option here is to buy a good quality workshop manual for your vehicle. That should have everything you need and more.

need to get a repair manual or go to library for mitchell and chilton series-sec629

Hello! The only way to acquire a complete set of wiring diagrams is to purchase a repair manual or at your local library...Unless your only interested in a certain circuit...If the latter is the case tell me which circuit...Guru...saailer I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

I need code for this serial, same radio, Thanks PP2787HB 0091600

Hi Anonymous, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box? step 1 remove battery neg lug or BOOM wrap the lug in a shop towel securely not pull the alt if not you blow up a 120+ or more fuse and now the ALT is dead, even 10 new alts are now dead. see? never skip step 1 in the service manual or BOOM fact #2 its not a tiny ATC fuse that blew out. I found it at Mitchell-1 fuse 3 exploded (done wrong) so the harness dies not catch fire. car fires are never fun/.

no country told shopping is best done by country. or even better a town. easy to me means over the counter, not mailed 12,000 miles. to see it is the wrong part. first off , to fix any car , post the vin with xxxxx at the end so we can tell you what engine is there and the matching fuel system. or we lie to you not told. the dealer sells it but demands the VIN, for sure. most autostores can have it or get it fast , ask them ,even in person. or by phone for real stock check not web site lies. that means online sales can tell you they have it and and NIS not in stock.

some bolts on things like this are LHB left and bolts. righty tighty and leftly loosey fails. best is get the service manual and check it out. no shaft told, at all, photo work easy here. good luck !!!

USA car or not. some cars made else where are not the same. yes made in 10 plants world wide, my be not the same. first off most cars now use TTY torque to yield on head bolts and that means not to ReUSE them ever. the service manual shows 2 things the order and the TTY methods and rules for all bolts there. 1.4L engine sounds to me the engine froze iced up , lacking antifreeze or overheated max. my online FSM , shows 1.6L and 2.0L only in USA> so is that it? which one/? to post a question about any engine tell what engine is there first. or post the VIN with xxxx at the end the engine code is there. but not told, sorry , I'd hate to guess or post for 3 engines is a waste of time. if I google search 1400 I get no hits, why is that, IDK> how odd is it a typo,(major) there is 1.4L sold in some countries, Canada, or UK or other english speaking countries. GM/Daewoo E-TEC (Family 1) I give up ,my book has no 1.4L at all so can not read the engine page to you and would if I could. in USA to fix cars it is super wise to join and pay for Mitchell-1, DIY manuals. and read. and not make blunders in this area. here they are in all their glory, in ASE school we get free access. it is that good https://eautorepair.net/Checkout/ActivationPlan/1999/Daewoo/Lanos