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The rear brakes lock up and tend to skid, especially the right rear. the entire system has been replaced,drums.shoes, backing plates.etc. stopping distance as increased . slow (long) applications do ok, but quick application of the brakes makes the ABS work thus the tires feel like they are jumping
This all started After I had the rear brakes replaced. I have been to two brake places since, and they both tell me that I need to go to the deler to have them diagnose the problem.
No leaks, new drums, shoes,wheel cylinders.
I have the same problem w/ my '96 LS.
This all started After I had the rear brakes replaced. I have been to two brake places since, and they both tell me that I need to go to the deler to have them diagnose the problem.
I have a 98 grand am that is doing the same thing. I replaced both rear hoses,both wheel cylinders, all spring hardware, new shoes. I have even replaced the abs motor which is also part of the master cylinder on this vehicle. I thought it was the speed sensors on the rear hubs so I unplugged them and dissabled the ABS system and still no change. When you stop the rear end squats and the right wheel locks up. When you let off the brake pedal the shoes stay locked. When I start to drive away the shoes release and it makes a loud clunking sound. I have a 98 grand am that is doing the same thing. I replaced both rear hoses,both wheel cylinders, all spring hardware, new shoes. I have even replaced the abs motor which is also part of the master cylinder on this vehicle. I thought it was the speed sensors on the rear hubs so I unplugged them and dissabled the ABS system and still no change. When you stop the rear end squats and the right wheel locks up. When you let off the brake pedal the shoes stay locked. When I start to drive away the shoes release and it makes a loud clunking sound.
i have the same prob when ever i inspect the rears or adjust them or under adjust them it goes good for a few days than returns always happens in the right rear
i have the same prob when ever i inspect the rears or adjust them or under adjust them it goes good for a few days than returns always happens in the right rear
AnonymousFeb 19, 2009
I have a 1993 Sunbird with rear drum brakes that has the same problem, the right rear wheel locks up on most occasion when I apply the brakes, I readjusted it and it worked fine for a few days and then went back to doing the same old thing. I have a 1993 Sunbird with rear drum brakes that has the same problem, the right rear wheel locks up on most occasion when I apply the brakes, I readjusted it and it worked fine for a few days and then went back to doing the same old thing.
Sounds like the rear wheel cylinders are bad or you have an ABS problem. Let me know if you replaced the wheel cylinders?Sounds like the rear wheel cylinders are bad or you have an ABS problem. Let me know if you replaced the wheel cylinders?
AnonymousMar 14, 2014
with light applications the rear brakes lock up and skidwith light applications the rear brakes lock up and skid
AnonymousMar 15, 2014
Rear brakes lock upRear brakes lock up
AnonymousMar 20, 2014
rear brakes lock up abs light on clunking when backing uprear brakes lock up abs light on clunking when backing up
AnonymousMar 23, 2014
My rear brakes chatter when coming to a stop. Brand new shoes, hardware, and drums.My rear brakes chatter when coming to a stop. Brand new shoes, hardware, and drums.
AnonymousMar 26, 2014
Been going on for a while now.Been going on for a while now.
AnonymousMar 27, 2014
Brakes smell like they are burningBrakes smell like they are burning
AnonymousMar 30, 2014
Rear brake shoes fell apart when drum was pulled offRear brake shoes fell apart when drum was pulled off
This is a very common problem in these cars. I would know, I have one. Brakes are a huge concern with this year of Cavalier. Because of the problems it has, my advice to you is to try to find someone who won't charge a fee to just take a look at the car. I ended up just pulling the fuse out for my ABS, and putting it back in for the emissions so that there wasn't a light on the dashboard.This is a very common problem in these cars. I would know, I have one. Brakes are a huge concern with this year of Cavalier. Because of the problems it has, my advice to you is to try to find someone who won't charge a fee to just take a look at the car. I ended up just pulling the fuse out for my ABS, and putting it back in for the emissions so that there wasn't a light on the dashboard.
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Not wanting to be too general but at least trying to help I would suggest
looking under the back end, and specifically at the rear backing plates
and to the insides of the rear wheels, to see if you notice any fluids
dripping. If these are drum brakes, then you could very well have either
a wheel cylinder leaking brake fluid, causing the brake shoe linings to swell
up, or it could be a leaking axle seal, allowing differential gear lube out,
which will also cause the linings to swell, and minor braking will cause
that particular side to lock up.
If this vehicle has rear disk brakes, or was just recently changed from
rear drum brakes to rear disk brakes, it is possible that the proportioning
valve in the brake line was not changed to match with the disk setup.
Drum brakes operate at approximately ten pounds per square inch pressure (10 PSI)
whereas disk units operate at a lower pressure of about 2 PSI.
Just some things to look at. Some brake fluids have no smell, others
are very distinctive in odor, and differential gear lube has a very
distinct odor...not hard to miss once you've smelled it.
If you checked everything suggested here in this site, replace the shoes. The materials in the linings (little or non asbestos) will have a tendecy to stick to the drum. More so if the linings sit over night and are damp.
Whoever reassembled your rear brakes may have installed the brake shoe springs incorrectly. Wrong assembly will cause the springs to interfere with the releasing of the shoes to the drum.
Check if the front pads were replaced with semi metalics with a EE rating on the pad hardness (marked on the edge of the pad material) If so, change pads to softer FF or FE rating and adjust rear shoes afterwards
I had a similar problem. Brakes would grab badly on the first few applications after sitting overnight. It was worse in wet weather. I tried many different fixes (new shoes, sanding the shoes, chamfering the ends of the shoes, lubing the backing plates). Finally, I replaced the brake return springs with new ones, and the problem went away. I think the problem is that the springs get weak. Drum brakes are designed so that the drag on the brake shoes tends to pull them out against the drum, but if the springs get weak and there's a bit of rust on the drum (from sitting overnight for instance), there is more drag than usual from the rust so the shoes immediately get pulled out against the drum and lock the brake, even with light brake pedal pressure. The new springs are strong enough to keep the shoes pulled back in against the hydraulic piston and allow proper modulation of the braking force.
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With the older drum brake system going in reverse will often tighten the adjuster on the brake mechanism. The adjuster has a thumb wheel to adjust the shoes in and out. BUT there should be a little plate that locks the thumb wheel once you are where you want it to be. I would guess that either you don't have that little plate or it is not keeping that thumb wheel from turning on the right side.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION It is a good idea to only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving the other side intact as a reference.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the brake drum.
Disconnect the parking brake rear cable and conduit.
Remove the brake shoe hold-down springs and brake shoe hold-down pins.
Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw spring.
Remove the brake shoe adjusting lever and adjuster screw.
Remove the brake shoe retracting spring.
Remove the brake shoes from the backing plate.
Remove and discard the parking brake lever clip. Remove the washer.
Remove the parking brake lever from the rear brake shoe.
To install:
Thoroughly clean the backing plate with brake cleaning solvent and dry completely.
Use silicone grease to lubricate the brake backing plate-to-brake shoe contact areas.
Apply a light coating of premium grease to the threaded areas of the adjuster. Turn the adjuster in and out to spread the lubricant. Turn the adjuster all the way down on the screw and loosen one-half turn.
Install the parking brake lever to the rear (secondary) brake shoe with a new clip.
Position the brake shoes on the backing plate and install the brake shoe hold-down springs.
Attach the parking brake rear cable and conduit to the parking brake lever.
Attach the brake shoe retracting spring.
The socket end of the brake adjuster screw is stamped with "R" or "L" to indicate that it is to be installed either on the right (passenger's side) or left (driver's side) of the vehicle. The adjuster nuts can be distinguished by the number of grooves machined around the body of the nut. Two grooves indicate a right-hand adjuster nut and one groove indicates a left-hand adjuster nut. Another way to identify brake adjuster assemblies is to check thread pitch. The right side adjuster assembly has right-hand threads and the left side has left-hand threads. If installed correctly, the brake adjuster assembly will increase in length when the brake shoe adjusting lever is operated.
Install brake adjuster screw in the slots on the brake shoes. The wider slot on the socket end must fit in the slot on the front (primary) brake shoe.
Install the brake shoe adjusting lever on the lever pin.
Install the brake adjusting screw in the slot on the secondary brake shoe and in the slot on the brake shoe lever. The brake shoe adjusting lever should contact the brake adjuster screw.
Adjust the brake shoes.
Install the drums.
ADJUSTMENTS
The drum brakes are self-adjusting and require a manual adjustment only after the brake shoes have been replaced, or when the length of the adjusting screw has been changed while performing some other service operation. Drum Installed
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the rubber plug from the adjusting slot on the backing plate.
Insert a Brake Adjustment Tool (D81L-1103-C) or equivalent into the slot and engage the lowest possible tooth on the starwheel. Move the end of the brake spoon downward to move the starwheel upward and expand the adjusting screw. Repeat this operation until the brakes lock the wheels.
Insert a small screwdriver or piece of firm wire (coat hanger wire) into the adjusting slot and push the automatic adjusting lever out and free of the starwheel on the adjusting screw and hold it there.
Engage the topmost tooth possible on the starwheel with the brake adjusting spoon. Move the end of the adjusting spoon upward to move the adjusting screw starwheel downward and contract the adjusting screw. Back off the adjusting screw starwheel until the wheel spins freely with a minimum of drag. Keep track of the number of turns that the starwheel is backed off, or the number of strokes taken with the brake adjusting spoon.
Repeat this operation for the other side. When backing off the brakes on the other side, the starwheel adjuster must be backed off the same number of turns to prevent side-to-side brake pull.
When the brakes are adjusted, make several stops while backing the vehicle to equalize the brakes on both of the wheels.
Lower the vehicle.
Drum Removed
See Figure 2
Fig. Fig. 2: When using a brake adjustment gauge, first measure the inside diameter of the drum (top) and then adjust the brakes shoes to the proper outside diameter (bottom)
Remove the brake drum.
Make sure that the shoe-to-contact pad areas are clean and properly lubricated.
Using a Brake Adjustment Gauge (D81L-1103-A) or equivalent, check the inside diameter of the drum.
Measure across the diameter of the assembled brake shoes, at their widest point.
Turn the adjusting screw so that the diameter of the shoes is 0.030 in. (0.76mm) less than the brake drum inner diameter.
Install the drum.
INSPECTION
See Figure 3
Fig. Fig. 3: Measure brake shoe thickness in several places around the shoe
Inspect the brake shoes for wear using a ruler or Vernier caliper. Compare measurements to the brake specifications chart. If the lining is thinner than specification or there is evidence of the lining being contaminated by brake fluid or oil, replace all brake pad assemblies (a complete axle set).
You will need to have the parking brake adjusted to the minimum clearance possible and double check the shoes & drum while off.
It sounds as though the shoes are loose, they move forward, grab & unil you center the brakes by applying them and then they release until put into a bind again.
These usually don't get adjusted or even looked at since they are hidden inside the brake rotor hub on the rear wheels.
I had noticed that the rear brakes would lock up whenever the were cold and had even the smallest amount of moisture on them. I didn't really think any thing about it because it was not that big of an inconvenience. Until last January. I was coming to an intersection and I needed to turn. I started turning and the brakes locked up, and right into the stop sign I went. So I decided that before this winter gets here I should get it checked out. So I took it to a brake shop and they told me it was a common problem with that type of GM car. The drums that they put on apparently had a stupid designer because people were complaining of the same thing about 2 years after. The problem is that there is a pin in there that keeps the shoes from working right. When it gets the smallest amount of rust and moisture mixed it just locks up. Oh yeah, they also quoted me a price of $707.62 to repair all of the problems that I have with the brakes.
I suspect that you have front disc and rear drum brakes.You did not say which of your brakes are locking up. I suggest that if your front brakes are locking {skid} that means your rear brakes are not engaging. If your rear brakes are locking {skid} then I suggest you have problems with park brake or brake fluid leaking onto the rear shoes.
More info would help me help you. I will check back soon.
Drum, Rear Brake System
Standard Rear Brake
Item
Part Number
Description
1
2069
Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin
2
—
Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt (2 Req'd)
3
—
Washer (2 Req'd)
4
—
Anchor Pin (Part of 2211)
5
—
Wheel Cylinder
6
2028
Brake Shoe Anchor Pin Guide Plate
7
2A637
Parking Brake Lever
8
2296
Brake Shoe Retracting Spring (Short)
9
2296
Brake Shoe Retracting Spring (Long)
10
2200
Rear Brake Shoe and Lining (Secondary)
11
—
Washer
12
2106
Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer
13
—
Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable Guide
14
2A642
Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link
15
2A601
Parking Brake Link Spring
16
2068
Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring
17
2A176
Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever
18
2048
Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Socket
19
2047
Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut
20
2041
Brake Adjusting Screw
21
2049
Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring
22
2200
Rear Brake Shoe and Lining (Primary)
23
2A178
Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable
24
2211
Brake Backing Plate
Heavy Duty Rear Brake
Item
Part Number
Description
1
—
Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt
2
00538
Lock Nut
3
2212
Rear Brake Backing Plate
4
2262
Rear Wheel Cylinder
5
2A642
Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link
6
2A601
Parking Brake Link Spring
7
2A637
Parking Brake Lever
8
2106
Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer
9
—
Parking Brake Lever Bolt
10
—
Secondary Shoe Assembly
11
2A179
Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable Guide
12
2068
Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring
13
—
Adjusting Lever Pin
14
—
Adjusting Lever Return Spring
15
2A176
Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever
16
2047
Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut
17
2049
Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring
18
2041
Brake Adjuster Screw
19
—
Primary Shoe Assembly
20
2068
Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring
21
2200
Rear Brake Shoe and Lining
22
2035
Brake Shoe Retracting Spring
23
2A178
Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable
24
2092
Brake Adjusting Hole Cover
25
2069
Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin
The rear drum brakes:
Have internal shoes that expand against the brake drum (1126).
Are a single-anchor type.
Are actuated by one rear wheel cylinder (2262).
Have two pistons in the rear wheel cylinder (2261). One exerts force against the upper end of the primary shoe; the other exerts force against the upper end of the secondary shoe.
Adjust rear brake shoes and linings (2200) automatically.
Need manual brake adjustment if the adjusters are not operating properly or after the rear brake shoes and linings have been replaced.
When the brake pedal is applied, hydraulic fluid pressure forces the pistons in the rear wheel cylinder outward, moving the rear brake shoes and linings against the brake drum.
The rear drum brake system includes the parking brake mechanism. Refer to Section 206-05 .
When the ABS light comes on that means that the sytem has a problem and whenever light is on the system is in-operable. Most of the time there is a problem with one of the wheel speed sensor. On this particular vehicle there are(4) abs/speed sensors (one in each wheel)basically the all tell the computer what speed that particular wheel is going, at anytime. This sensor is mounted on/in the wheel hub and gets its signal from a gear mounted in the hub or and axle in the hub with a gear on it. When the sensor sends a signal to the computer that the wheel is about to skid/lock-up it pumps the brakes 15 times per second to prevent it from locking up. I believe that the sensor on the right rear wheel is not working and therfore it locks up. Good Luck and contact me if you need more help. Please leave me a fixya if I fixed ya.
I have the same problem w/ my '96 LS.
This all started After I had the rear brakes replaced. I have been to two brake places since, and they both tell me that I need to go to the deler to have them diagnose the problem.
No leaks, new drums, shoes,wheel cylinders.
I have a 98 grand am that is doing the same thing. I replaced both rear hoses,both wheel cylinders, all spring hardware, new shoes. I have even replaced the abs motor which is also part of the master cylinder on this vehicle. I thought it was the speed sensors on the rear hubs so I unplugged them and dissabled the ABS system and still no change. When you stop the rear end squats and the right wheel locks up. When you let off the brake pedal the shoes stay locked. When I start to drive away the shoes release and it makes a loud clunking sound.
i have the same prob when ever i inspect the rears or adjust them or under adjust them it goes good for a few days than returns always happens in the right rear
I have a 1993 Sunbird with rear drum brakes that has the same problem, the right rear wheel locks up on most occasion when I apply the brakes, I readjusted it and it worked fine for a few days and then went back to doing the same old thing.
Sounds like the rear wheel cylinders are bad or you have an ABS problem. Let me know if you replaced the wheel cylinders?
with light applications the rear brakes lock up and skid
Rear brakes lock up
rear brakes lock up abs light on clunking when backing up
My rear brakes chatter when coming to a stop. Brand new shoes, hardware, and drums.
Been going on for a while now.
Brakes smell like they are burning
Rear brake shoes fell apart when drum was pulled off
This is a very common problem in these cars. I would know, I have one. Brakes are a huge concern with this year of Cavalier. Because of the problems it has, my advice to you is to try to find someone who won't charge a fee to just take a look at the car. I ended up just pulling the fuse out for my ABS, and putting it back in for the emissions so that there wasn't a light on the dashboard.
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