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Posted on Dec 21, 2017
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I need to replace the brake lines on a 2000 silverado. Can't tell wich ones are coming from the master cylinder and witch one go to the front brakes. Three go across the top of abs unit and two on the bottom. The top right goes to the rear wheels. Does anyone know how the other four are routed? Thanks, Bill

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Gerald Warner

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  • Chevrolet Expert 50 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 22, 2017
Gerald Warner
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See the following video, the line locations at the EBCM are the same for your year.

5 Related Answers

airjoc

Rob Sinbad

  • 709 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 25, 2009

SOURCE: 1994 Cavalier -replaced master cylinder-no pressure to rear brake

The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.

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Anonymous

  • 16 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 30, 2009

SOURCE: No fluid pressure coming out of ABS modulator

you have to get a scanner and perform a function bleed test on abs valve to work air out of valves, some also have push pins under rubber buttons on side that you can manually push to remove air

Auto Master

Roy Funkhouser

  • 140 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 28, 2009

SOURCE: 00 Chevy Silverado... ABS EBCM diagram help??? Brake line hookups

Hello,
I hope this helps.






1ec2f93.jpg
Thank You,
Roy

Anonymous

  • 158 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 29, 2009

SOURCE: 00 Chevy EHCU HELP

bleed each separately

Anonymous

  • 233 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 16, 2009

SOURCE: how do you bleed the abs unit on a 1997 chevrolet truck

start by bleeding the master cylinder bleed the line closest to the fire wall, then proceed to the right rear wheel, left rear wheel, right front wheel, and then the left front wheel.

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1answer

I'm replacing the brake lines on a 2005 Silverado z71. On the master cylinder, which line is the front brakes and which is the front? I think closest to the firewall is front brakes? correct? Thanks!

I, personally, have never heard of a diagram you can use.
These lines are usually replaced one at a time, so you do not get them wrong.
If you have yours disconnected already and you cannot tell what to do, go find a 2005 Silverado and jack it up and take pictures of the underside, or better yet, take a drawing tablet and go make yourself a map of where each line goes.
God bless your efforts.
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1answer

Why even with new brake parts in the front and rear on my 2995 Ford f150 2wd truck would front brakes work but not back ? I even put truck on bay lift and hit the brakes and rear just kept spinning.

Bill:

Check your master cylinder. It could be a piece of junk lodged in the fluid port for the rear brake lines, or in the brake line its self. The fact that both rear wheels spin tells me that if it is a clogged line, it is between the two manifolds, (one next to the master cylinder, and the other where the rear brake line splits into two... one for each rear hub. Or it could be that the piston in the master cylinder needs to be replaced. I would disconnect one brake line at one rear wheel and disconnect the rear brake line at the manifold (near the master cylinder)and blow that line out with air pressure. . do not leave the rear brake line connected to the master cylinder as you blow air through the lines as you may damage the master cylinder piston packings. You'll have to bleed the brakes when you are done.
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2001 Silverado 2500 HD Why Rear brakes don't work after I installed new hydro-boost power booster, master cylinder, calipers, and pads. I bled master cylinder before installing, and brakes beginn

Hello Patricia,

Have you checked the master brake cylinder reservoir for brake fluid loss?

I don't suspect the master cylinder as you have replaced it... but am more suspect of a leaking brake line or fitting which should have
been discovered when you had the system bled.

The only time I ever had a rear brake problem with a 2500 series Chevrolet was due to seized rear brake caliper guide pins...as your calipers are also new that is not your problem.

If your brake pedal feels spongy and travels to the floor board you have air in the system, a brake fluid leak or a failure in the power steering system, such as a broken hose, broken power steering pump drive belt, or failed pump, would result in a loss of pressure to both the hydro-boost and steering.

Find more information here:

. Hydro Boost Power Assist Systems Operation Diagnosis and Repair
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1answer

2005 silverado brakes sticking front only after driving little

I had the same problem and replaced both calipers with no change, I figured it was the master cylinder. When I pulled off the master cylinder I saw the vacume booster had about 2 cups of brake fluid in it which leaked from the front of the master cylinder. I replaced master cylinder and vacume booster and brakes work great now.
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How do i bledd the brakes on my 2000 chevy silverado after i changed a leaking brake line and the master cylinder ran dry? or tell me the best web site for that promblem

assuming your bleeder nipples are not frozen, you can find many illustrated explanations of this process over on www.youtube.com. This requires a helper, and the half of the brain missing on women dictates this helper be a man. a woman is simply not going to be able to pump the pedal AND FIRMLY HOLD IT DOWN while you bleed out the air. start on the wheel most distant from the master cylinder.
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2000 silverado brake work good 90% of the time, but the odd time the pedal goes to the floor, and in the last second the abs kicks in. Then they work good again for a while. Could it be the booster, I...

may i suggest your problem is the brake master cylinder is faulty ie the line pressure is being lost due to fault on seal that is supposed to maintain brake pipes/line pressure when pedal is off resulting in brake pedal intermittantly going to floor but if you pump pedal it comes back ? the fact you mention you drained master cyl ? reservoir ?? and fluid was dirty ? assume you bled all brakes to flush b/system too ? the fluid being dirty is a clear indication that the seals on m/cyl pistons are deteriated and allowing fluid to pass seals and cause pedal to travel further SO best advice is to replace the master cyl as repair kits/seals are hard to come by these days then use new fluid and bleed all brakes/cyl's hope this helps ?
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Need part numbers for brake lines

Please visit your local full service auto parts store for not only the special lines you will need but also the special bender and special wrenches you will have to use to effect this repair.
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I had two brake lines that were rotted on my 2000 siverado, so I changed them. I bleed the lines on all four calipers and still pedal goes to the floor. Master cylinder worked just fine right before lines...

You have got air in the lines.
Easiest way to eliminate them is to apply brake line clamps to all the brake lines and check pedal....should be rock solid as its only the master cylinder at work. Simply unclamp one at a time and you will easily detect the problermatic one.
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