If no codes were set, diagnostics would be necessary. Vacuum leaks, hose connections, PCV, EGR stays open, ignition system, including CKP and/or CPS sensor, spark plugs, wires, coils, engine timing, fuel supply including pressure, fuel pump, fuel filter, pressure regulator, clogged injectors or filter, and EFI components such as MAF sensor, water temp sensor, air temp sensor or TPS sensor. You mentioned that you have replaced plugs, fuel pump, relay and filter. But there is much more to look at to narrow down your search.
I tried to post 2 hours ago and the site wouldn't let me so this will be in 2-3 parts ok ! (1) please clean out your throttle body with fuel injection cleaner and if your using no name branded fuel stop now this has no detergents in it, and you will find a brown varnish inside the throttle plate ,after doing this also spray around the intake manifold and the egr evap egr sensors and hoses if the rpm's change you found a leak next post in comments
You betcha I will a lot of times in doesn't register that I'm using characters and the answer will not post thanks a million and I wish that those idiots would stop the manuals postings it doesn't help the people who need real answers from real mechanics here grace is also abbey or abbie that I've seen good luck my friends who post real information on this site enjoy your holidays and all the best for you and your families
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SOURCE: engine stalling on a 2002 chevy tahoe z71
Still sounds like a fuel problem. Try a full tank of supreme gas, plus put a can of SEAFOAM into the tank to help clean you injectors. See if this will help clear up your problem. Did you change the plugwires????
SOURCE: 2005 ford ranger fuel pump relay gets hot and engine dies
Like Laurie Mack said. It is the inertia switch below the glove box. Here is some funny information. DON'T change the fuel pump first. Interesting fact: I bought the new inertia switch from Ford and the install instructions that came with it said to install the switch in the protected area to the right where the fuses are. It is like Ford knows it was a dumb place to put the inertia switch, but they won't let you know until after you buy a new one. I have read at least 20 other people on here that had the same problem I just had.
SOURCE: 92 Chevy Suburban Electrical Fuel System
Check fuel flter at fuel pick-up intank (looks like a small wire sock). Remove fuel filter and fitting at fuel rail. Blow out fuel lines w/about 35lbs air press. Ck electrical @ relay - should be 4 connectors - one is key on hot/one is always hot/one is ground and last is hot to fuel pump. Good Luck
SOURCE: Where is Fuel Relay for 2004 Dodge Ram 3500 Diesel Truck
it doesn't have a fuel pump relay it has a fuel pump control unit and it is located on the chassis back quarter drivers side near the tube cross member for chassis on top of chassis rail near bed mount. locate the rear springs front perch and it will be above that on top of rail.
hope this helps. good luck and please ask any question you have.
Testimonial: "Thanx for info..no wonder I couldn't find Relay! "
SOURCE: My Excursion stopped several times on freeway
If your Excursion has the 7.3L Diesel, what I first suspect is the Ford recalled item Cam Position Sensor (CMP sensor). If your nearby Ford dealership has not replaced it for free for you, then make an appointment and take the car in to have the sensor replaced. If this does not solve your stalling problem, come back to FixYa and I will assist you further.
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Next take a long piece of vacuum hose or any size rubber tubing aND stick it in 1 ear and put cotton in your other ear YES I JUST SAID THAT!the hose acts as a stethoscope and singles out the zone you are searching when you cross over a vacuum leak the hissing is extremely pronounced it's very hard to listen for vacuum leaks when the engine is running because of pulleys turning belts and whining bearings and all the surrounding noise from the engine and the environment your in at the time you ll thank me for this trick of any noise isolation to pinpoint where and what's giving you problems next post in comments
Next it's possible that either your throttle position sensor is worn out and in that spot there's a break in contact of the sensor when your in park the rpm's are higher and when you put it in drive the rpms go lower and in this are there could be a dead spot from everyday driving to check put your foot on the brake in drive and raise the rpm's slowly if it the engine starts to stumble or stall you found it ,the other is check your battery cables and power disribution box cable and lug and the fuse blades if this applies corroded connections will only sometimes let your engine run until the electrical load demand is to much and it can't get through the corrosion on the connections remember this always that yes your engine runs on gas/diesel but it's the sensors that control the running condition of it and if the right amount of voltage cannot get through the cables to the power distribution box cable and lug then something will not get it and the engine will stall go to all sensors and clean them and you will see the difference right away in a firmer fas peddle this will be an electrical tune up hat you did and optimization of the engine running condition will translate to more mpg's
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