Replaced battery, crankshaft position sensor, plugs, wires, coils, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and truck still, it won't run above 1500RPM and dies then won't restart until disconnect battery?

You may need to check fuel pressure after the engine warms up and shuts off. Maybe the fuel pump gets hot and stops. Have you checked for spark after it dies?

have exhaust back pressure tested. maybe the catalytic converter is restricted/ almost plugged. Also check your vacuum hoses for leaks.

Is there a crank sensor, if so that would be my first check.

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2.6L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Hood
   • Accessory drive belts
   • Accelerator cable
   • Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose
   • Air intake duct
   • Fuel pressure regulator vacuum line
   • Canister hose
   • Brake booster vacuum line
   • Engine wiring harness connectors at right wheel housing
   • Ground cable connector at the intake manifold, starter and firewall
   • Heated Oxygen (HO2S) sensor connector
   • Alternator wiring connectors
   • Oil pressure switch connector
   • Starter motor harness connectors
   • Ignition coil connector
   • Spark plug wires
   • Distributor
   • Exhaust front pipe
   • Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) gas temperature sensor connector
   • Air pump
   • EGR pipe
   • Heat shield
   • Exhaust manifold
   • Throttle Position (TP) switch connector
   • Cooling fan
   • Water pump pulley
   • Power steering pump
   • Intake manifold
   • Crankshaft pulley
   • Front cover
   • Timing belt. Refer to the Timing Belt unit repair section.
   • Valve cover
   • Rocker arms
   • Camshaft
   • Cylinder head

Cylinder head bolt loosening sequence - 2.6L engine

1. To install:
2. NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the cylinder head torque sequence illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart.
3. NOTE: Lubricate the cylinder head bolts with clean engine oil for assembly.
4. Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Tighten the bolts in sequence as follows:
5. Step 1: 58 ft. lbs. (75 Nm)
6. Step 2: 72 ft. lbs. (98 Nm)

1. Install or connect the following:
2. Camshaft

• Rocker arms
• Valve cover
• Timing belt
• Front cover
• Crankshaft pulley. Tighten the bolt to 87 ft. lbs. (128 Nm).
• Intake manifold
• Power steering pump
• Water pump pulley
• Cooling fan
• TP switch connector
• Exhaust manifold
• Heat shield
• EGR pipe
• Air pump
• EGR gas temperature sensor connector
• Exhaust front pipe
• Distributor
• Spark plug wires
• Ignition coil connector
• Starter motor harness connectors
• Oil pressure switch connector
• Alternator wiring connectors
• HO2S sensor connector
• Ground cable connector at the intake manifold, starter and firewall
• Engine wiring harness connectors at right wheel housing
• Brake booster vacuum line
• Canister hose
• Fuel pressure regulator vacuum line
• Air intake duct
• PCV valve and hose
• Accelerator cable
• Accessory drive belts
• Hood
• Negative battery cable

1. Fill the cooling system.
2. Start the engine and check for leaks.

check fuel pressure, check fuel pressure regulator, change fuel filter. If fuel pressure is low it could be a bad pump, a clogged filter, or a malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator. If all those check out, then check crankshaft and camshaft position sensors.

If the motor is turning over, then the battery is good. You are either not getting spark or fuel.
If not spark, the crankshaft position sensor is usually faulty.
If no fuel, either fuel pump or fuel pump relay is bad, or clogged fuel filter, or fuel pressure regulator is faulty. You have a fuel rail that has your injectors attached to it. It should have a test port on it that looks like a tire valve. You can put a rag on top of it,, press it in and there should be lots of fuel pressure, If not, either filter is clogged or pump is not running either due to bad fuse or relay or pump is bad.
For spark, there is a crankshaft position sensor that screws in engine block next to the crank. Then from here the wires go to ignition module and coil packs, then to plugs and wires. You can test any relay or sensor with an ohmmeter in the ohm position. You can test any power in an electrical unit with a voltmeter

fuel pressure regulator, or the computer needs reset!!

Assuming it has a 3.1 V-6, it could be any # of failures. Bad plug wires, ignition coils, control module (under coil packs), crankshaft position sensor, map sensor, throttle position sensor, egr valve, fuel pressure regulator, fuel injectors, engine coolant temperature sensor, vacuum leaks; have it scanned for trouble codes to help in diagnosing! If you think it is just over fueling (flooding),look at fuel pressure regulator or coolant temp sensor ( when they fail the computer thinks its always -40 F causing it to over fuel). A bad map sensor can cause the same. Hope this helps. Thanks in advance for rating me!