I suspect you still have a battery problem, try a donor battery of proper size and spec , see if it starts fine, If it starts fine with donor then replace old battery, if not I would check starter cranking amps while cranking engine and also check positive battery cable temperature to feel , if the cable feels hot to touch this is sign of high resistance in the starter armature windings causing a higher demand of battery ampearge in this case replace starter.
A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 200 amps or more while cranking the engine. The no load amp draw depends on the rating of the starter while the cranking amp draw depends on the displacement and compression of the engine. Always refer to the OEM specs for the exact amp values. Some "high torque" GM starters, for example, may have a no load draw of up to 250 amps. Toyota starters on four-cylinder engines typically draw 130 to 150 amps, and up to 175 amps on six-cylinder engines.
An unusually high current draw and low free turning speed or cranking speed typically indicates a shorted armature, grounded armature or field coils, or excessive friction within the starter itself (dirty, worn or binding bearings or bushings, a bent armature shaft or contact between the armature and field coils). The magnets in permanent magnet starters can sometimes break or separate from the housing and drag against the armature.
A starter that does not turn at all and draws a high current may have a ground in the terminal or field coils, or a frozen armature. On the other hand, the start may be fine but can't crank the engine because the engine is seized or hydrolocked. So before you condemn the starter, try turning the engine over by hand. Won't budge? Then the engine is probably locked up.
A starter that won't spin at all and draws zero amps has an open field circuit, open armature coils, defective brushes or a defective solenoid. Low free turning speed combined with a low current draw indicates high internal resistance (bad connections, bad brushes, open field coils or armature windings). Hope this helps...
450 out of 600 what? sounds like you have somthing drawing power need an amp meter. remove key and leave window down. disconnect negitive battery cable and connect meter between the negitive cable and negitive termainal on the battery should see around 2.5 milliamp draw or less may take 1/2 hour to get to this point. also if this vechile is not driven often this could be the problem
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Check the battery cables. Believe it or not I had a case where the battery cables weren't making good contact until the jumper cables were attached. The jumper cable pressend on the battery terminal connector and improved the electriical contact to the point that the starter and would then turn over. Please let me know what you find... Charlie
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