Key switch removal

Red would be hot from battery. Touch each of the other wires to it to see which wire goes to the starter, it will crank. Use a test light now on the hot wire at the coil and touch the other wires to the red wire till the test light comes on, that's power to the coil. Clip it to the red wire, touch the starter wire to the red wire, engine will crank and start and remove the touched starter wire from the red one. Hook the wires on toggle switches so you don't have to fool with touching them.

Do the gauges and warning lights work with key on? If not, check fusible links, AM1 for ignition key power. If the gauges/warning lights work, the key switch has power, so you can follow it to the starter solenoid. The start wire out of the ignition switch is a black/white wire, this is the hot wire to the solenoid, and only has power when key is held in start. With automatics, there is only one switch-a neutral start switch- between the ignition switch and the solenoid on the starter .

With a manual transmission, the black-white start wire goes to both a starter relay and a clutch start switch (on the clutch pedal), those two work together to send the power on to the starter solenoid. So, no crank, good battery, power to key, follow the black/white wire, the start relay and the clutch switch, to the starter solenoid- a hot wire there turns the starter motor on.

corroded battery terminals, clean them, and try jumper cables.
both way use same crappy terms.
what transmission A/T or M/T my guess, A/T
so wiggle the gear shift, try neutral starts. this is the PRNDL switch
wiggling it finds new fresh brass on the switch contacts,
wiggle as you crank the key.
if that fails
then hot wire the starter solenoid.
if that act causes cranking, then the starter and battery and cables are good. and means the KEY LINE is bad.
if no crank , hot wired, then that means the starter bad. (battery good , battery charged in all cases)

see hot wiring here.

http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html

in a nut shell
1: battery charged at 12.6vdc. rested.
2: chock wheels, all brakes set., in PARK (or M/T in neutral.)
3: gain access to the starter
4: unplug the key line (that is the tiny wire) on starter solenoid.
5: keys in pocket
6: jumper the solenoid tiny wire, to the big outboard lug on solenoid.
grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggggggggggggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
it wont start, keys are in pocket.
the starter is good, i save you 1/2 the diagnosis. in 1 simple step
put the wire back removed in #4
if its dead, the KEY line is dead. ask how to fix that. next. i f so be...

Turning the key to on, no warning lights or dash gauges come on? That sounds like the ignition switch is not working, or power is not getting to the switch. Power for the switch would likely come from a maxi fuse under the hood. So check all your fuses as a start. If fuses are good, one will have to check the ignition switch for power in and power out, when key is turned to on. Use a test light, pull the ignition switch electrical connector apart. On the harness side of the connector, probe all the terminals in the connector. One wire should be the hot wire to the switch-hot at all times-just waiting for the switch to send power out to make things work. If you have a hot wire there, plug connector together, turn key to on, and backprobe the electrical connector, looking for power out on the run wire. The start wire (going to the starter solenoid) will have power when key is held in start. Too many wires? Confused? Keep probing-all you looking for is power in on one wire, and power out on one or maybe two wires with key on. If no power out, the switch must be bad. If no power in, the electrical distribution system will have to be checked-back to the power distribution center under the hood where the maxi fuses are.
Post back if not clear, or if you need more help. Always appreciate a reply. Good luck.

You take the hot wire to the ignition switch and twist it together with the run wire out of the switch-then ignition is on, just as if the key were turned to on. Then take the start wire that goes out of the switch and touch it to the hot wire to make the starter work. Soon as engine is started, remove the start wire from hot wire and tuck it out of the way. When you want it off, untwist the hot wire and the run wire.
If you cannot hot wire it like this, check if there is a security system that has immobilized the car. I don't know if a '92 had a security system.

A mechanic would check for voltage at the neutral safety switch.

"Hot-wiring" a car is fiction for TV and movies. Even if you could start the vehicle by crossing some wires, you still need the key to unlock the steering wheel and deactivate any security system that it may have.

Bill B

At the base of your steering column is the ignition/start/run switch. This has failed and needs to be replaced. You'll need to drop the column and remove the kneepad to gain access. Be sure to locate the new switch in the exact spot of the old one. It has slotted screws.

use a test light the wire from the battery should be hot all the time the wire that goes to the solenoid should be hot when the key is turned over to start and the wire going to the coil should be hot when the key is in run.

1993 Mitsubishi 3000 GT stalls for no good reason, you never really know for sure exactly when it’s going to happen. It might start up right away, or after a few cranks. It may be hard to start in the first place. This could be caused by a faulty ignition switch, and could be easily repaired.
.5- If the engine cranks but wont start, hold the key firmly pressed inward or frontward while trying to start.
1- If the engine starts: energetically jiggle the ignition key back and forth while the engine is running.
2- If the engine stalls at any time while doing this, then you may have a defective ignition switch.
2.5- Remove the Ignition key from the ignition.
3- Remove the four screws from underneath the steering column cover.
4- Hold the lower half of the cover with both hands and pull it apart from the upper half. You might have to use some force to overcome the locking tabs, you might have to tilt the steering wheel up or down to remove the covers.
5- Insert the ignition key back into the key cylinder (ignition switch)
6- Turn the key to the on position (don’t start the engine)
7- Move the key in and outward while observing the opposite side of the key cylinder
8- If the opposite end of the key cylinder moves even a little, while moving the key; then the wiring side of the ignition switch has popped out of the key cylinder and needs to be secured back into place. (You don’t have to replace the key cylinder)
9- Press the wiring end of the key cylinder inward and tie it down firmly with a strong nylon zip tie.
10- This should take care of the problem.
10.5- Remove the ignition key.
11- Reinstall the removed parts.

Don’t use a rubber band to tie down the loose ignition part; it will break-off when the ignition switch gets hot.