What breaks the 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Visual Display?
The display flickered and then went blank. I can find no visual signs of damage nor any kind of replaceable light source. Is there any bench service possible or is this a plug in and throw away part?
Re: What breaks the 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited...
Id assume your talking about the overhead mini display, if that is the case it is a fuse in the lower right hand floor board of your passenger floor board. Mine did the same thing and it turned out to be a fuse that went out so it couldn't send power up to the display.
The idle air control valve is located on the back of the throttle body. It has an oval electrical connector and two torx screws holding it in. Unplug the connector, remove the two screws then lightly tap the body with a soft faced mallet to loosen it from the body. Once you have it out and prior to installing a new valve clean the seat inside the throttle body where the idle control fits. This must be very clean! Installation is in the reverse order. To save some cash, pull the valve out and clean it with throttle body cleaner, this usually fixes the problem for quite a while. Good luck and hope this helps.
Place the transfer case in low range. Pry the shift indicator bezel out of the console using a trim stick.
Apply the parking brake and place the transfer case in neutral. Remove the parking brake trim insert. Remove the console attaching screws. Lift the console up and disconnect the 4WD indicator lamp hamess. Remove the console.
Remove the passenger side knee blocker. Remove the single end screw. Remove the screws below the glove box. Remove the screw at the courtesy lamp. Remove the ash receiver and the screws behind it. Remove the instrument panel armature screw behind the ash receiver. Open the glove box and remove the screws behind it. Lower the panel and disconnect the lamp harnesses. For additional instrument panel service procedures to complete steps 6 thru 25, refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/ Instrument Cluster / Carrier/ Service and Repair/ Procedures. See: Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators\Instrument Cluster / Carrier\Service and Repair
Remove the pod switch bezels on both sides of the steering column with a trim stick.
Remove the drive side knee blocker. Remove the end screw and screws located at the bottom of the knee blocker.
Remove the cowl top trim panel by prying it up with a trim stick. Remove the solar sensor if equipped.
Remove the "A" post trim panels.
Remove the remove the bolts that attach the lower instrument panel reinforcement to the instrument panel armature and remove the reinforcement.
Disconnect the park lamp switch.
Pull back the carpet at the transmission tunnel from the base of the instrument panel center bezel. Remove the nuts from the upper studs and bolts through the floor that secure the instrument panel center bracket.
Remove the bolts that secure the instrument panel center bracket to the drivers side of the transmission tunnel.
Remove the screws securing the Vehicle Information Center and remove it. Remove the screw fastening the mounting bracket.
Unplug the vacuum harness connector or vent tube on ATC equipped vehicles and the wire harness located under the passenger side of the instrument panel.
Remove the screws holding the passenger side kick panel, along with the screw from the kick panel shroud.
Unplug the antenna cable near the right cowl side panel.
Unplug the instrument panel wire harness connectors from the junction block at the right cowl side panel.
Remove the bolts that secure the instrument panel armature to the windshield fence.
Remove the nuts that secure the top if the instrument panel armature to the windshield fence.
Remove the bolts that secure the ends of the instrument panel to the cowl side panel.
Remove the nuts that secure the steering column to the brake pedal support and lower the steering column.
Remove the bolts that secure the instrument panel armature to the brake pedal support.
Place a protective cover on the seats. Lift the instrument panel off the windshield fence studs and maneuver the instrument panel out and lower it onto the seats.
Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the evaporator tubes. Make sure to install plugs or tape the ends of the lines and fittings to ensure that excessive amounts of moisture do not contaminate the A/C system.
Remove the vacuum line at the tee from the main vacuum supply harness. This line runs through the body with the upper refrigerant line.
Remove the Powertrain Control Module with connectors intact and set aside.
Remove the heater A/C housing mounting nuts from the studs on the engine compartment side of the dash.
Remove the heater A/C housing from the vehicle.
To Install the components, reverse the procedure stated above. Torque Specifications: Instrument panel center bracket to floor transmission tunnel fastener: 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.) Instrument panel to windshield fence bolts and nuts: 12 Nm (105 in. lbs.) Instrument panel to cowl side inner panel bolts: 12 Nm (105 in. lbs.) Instrument panel to steering column support bolts: 12 Nm (105 in. lbs.)
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Are they damaged? If you are replacing them...look at the new part for the mounting bolt locations...Also, you could visit your local salvage yard...(oic a part) and practice or examine a salvage Grand Cherokee. They have been big sellers and should be plentiful. Hope this helps.
You checked fuses and they're all good. So might be time to pull the radio, and check its fuse. Generally they have their own at the back, but while your doing that. Check all the wiring to make sure it isn't burned, melted, rubbed through/chaffed. Cracked or in any way defective. Check all your power wires and earth points.
If your vehicle has them, check the fuses and relays under the bonnet (hood) also. Most vehicles have two sets of fuses.
Jeep radios are notorious for having display and channel issues. If your display is not operative, then your radio internally damaged and is not worth repairing. It is better to replace it at this point.
The best visual you have is your vehicle! Take a picture if you need to. Write down what went where before you start. Check stickers under the hood and make sure there is a diagram for the serpentine belt, if not draw a picture and make your own before taking it off. Attachmnent bolts are usually very different and nearly impossible to to get wrong. Electrical connections are generally of the plug in type. any that are not you can label with tape. Most important is to disconnect battery positive lead before starting the job. Replacing it only when all other mechanical work is finished. Also, alternators are expensive...make sure (by testing) that the alternator is bad, before spending time and $!!!
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