I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 series, extended cab with a 5.3 Vortex engine, manual. problem is it will not go into 4 whl drive and light comes on saying it is but does not. I have changed the acurartor in the front differential and that did not fix the problem. Can you help me with other things I could check.
Frank Kovach
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2000 Chevy
SOURCE: cab corner extended cab 99 silverado LH
there is a new style body panel adhesive that makes this job very easy for the home body man this panel needs to be prefit by you make shure it lines up and looks strait then apply the glue on the eges and drive a couple of self tapping screws into it to hold it until the glue dries usually 1 24 hr period after the glue is hard then remove the screws and sand off excess glue and fill the screww holes with spot and glaze putty sand all areas to prepare for next step which is feathering with fibermix and then spot putty prime and paint see the heat from a welding machine is nice to but it warps the panel being put on the glue lasts for years and it doesnt warp panels thanks for using a great resource like fixya
SOURCE: 2004 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab
jack the truck up and take the passangers tire off. look behind the rotor you should see 2 bolts holding the caliber on to the rotor. loosen those and take them out. from there you should be able pull up on the caliber this will take the caliber and pads off together. take the pads out of the caliber and install the new ones .
BECAREFUL not to twist or bend the caliber to much or you will bend the brake line.....
once you have installed the new brake pads in the caliber. put the caliber back on the rotor. if they will not fit release the bleader valve to release the pressure. than you should be able to slid the caliber back onto the rotor. once you have done that close the bleader valve. reinstall the 2 bolts to hold the caliber in place. put your tie back one. Follow these steps for the other side.
now once that is done. you might want to blead the front breaks.
what you do is have someone help you. fill the brake resiviour with brake fliud. than start your truck.
Have someone in the cab to press the brake. What you want to do is turn the wheel so you can get to the bleader valve. once you can get to it open it up. have the person in the cab other truck press the brake until you see a steady flow of brake fluid coming out of the caliber. once you see that have the pseron press the brake once more and hold it to the floor.
close the bleader valve.
now do the same thing on the other side. But, make sure you check your resivour fluid first.
This is to make sure you don't have any air in the lines. after you are done with both side put it in gear and hit the brake make sure you stop......... If that works go about half the block down and hit the brake again to make sure you stop......
once you have done that and are comfortable with the way the truck stops than ou are good to go and now know how to change the brakes for future refrence..... be aware the back brakes are diffrent.........
let me know when you are ready for the back brakes.
do not blead the front ones if ou intend to do the back brakes afterwarwords......
if you are only doing the front brakes you must blead the the passanger side first......... if you do not have the bolts holding your caliber on than you will have a pin the you will take a hammer to and knock it out that will release them....
SOURCE: Chevy truck running rough 150,000 miles
Find out why the engine light is coming on, it is the info u probably need to fix the running rough problem. Most auto parts stores will read the codes stored in your trucks computer for free, write them down, and ask what they mean and how to correct the problem. If u need more info, return to this site w/ codes for further help.
SOURCE: 2005 f-150 4x4 not engaging
First of all, the problem was caused by lack of use of the 4x4. The fix was to have someone sit in the seat & turn the switch while 2nd person tapped on 4x4 solenoid underneath the truck (next to the gearbox (seen from rear of truck) about directly below middle-rear-seat). It must have become stuck (or rusted) together? Little taps while engaging switch 'unfroze' it. My 2 fuses that were blown were probably caused by overloading when I first tried to use the 4x4 while it was frozen out. Since fixing, just be sure to turn it on (and off) frequently, even if you don't need it. You don't actually need to drive with it, just engage it temporarily.
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