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Anonymous Posted on Nov 20, 2017

My autoride compressor doesn't run anymore

Usually my autoride compressor will run for a few seconds every time I get in my truck, however the last week or so it hasent kicked on. Does this mean the compressor has gone out, or does it just not need to run? The rear of the truck isn't sagging, and I/m not getting a service message in the message center on the dash.

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Jason Seavey

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  • Contributor 61 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 21, 2017
Jason Seavey
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Joined: Nov 15, 2014
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Sounds like compressor stopped pretty common problem

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 19, 2009

SOURCE: I own 2000 chevy z71 truck and in the last week my

Try pushing dome override button 4 times, lights should go off.works on mine.

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Anonymous

  • 80 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 21, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 chevy truck 1500 airconditioner wont stop running

You could have a problem with the wiring to the blower motor. My mom has a 2006 Tahoe that would only blow out any air when it wanted to. Turns out, some how a wire going to the motor popped out and was grounding itself on another wire. If I were you I would take it in to have it looked at before spending the money on buying a new blower motor.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Aug 14, 2009

SOURCE: Reduced power code comes up and my truck stalls.

I had the same problem, and the solution was cleaning the throttle body, it does need to be completely removed to be cleaned thoroughly. I just used some brake cleaner on a rag to clean off all the carbon deposits. A friend of mine who is a dealer tech had only seen this trouble code once, and this was the solution. So far, my light has not come back on and the truck is running alot better at idle.

Molson02536

Harvey N Tawatao

  • 3854 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 01, 2010

SOURCE: will not start only backfires and start

You need 3 things.
Compression
Good hot blue spark to all plugs.
Good gasoline and proper fuel pressure. 63-64 lbs.
If you have all 3 then move on to injector pulse to all injectors.
I think each injector is on a separate driver on that one.
Check for pulse to all of them.

You may be weak on fuel pressure . Even a couple of lbs low on a cold start will cause a no start. Double check cold start cranking fuel pressure. If under 63-62 lbs you have problems.one test is to give it a squirt of carb cleaner not starting fluid. If you get a intake or engine full of starting fluid it can blow things. Carb cleaner will start it if it is a fuel problem and lot safer. Also in the good old days when i was a kid, i used to get a couple of cans of starting fluid and get in the back and have a good starting fluid spraying contest. Good for a big blast if someone lights a match. If it starts then you have a fuel pressure problem. Run the full fuel pressure test and post back pressures.

Here is the guide lines on testing.
Hard to start cold.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel. Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak.


The 75-85 is only a check on the capable full pressure of fuel pump.
If you can not find the rubber return line check full pressure by plugging return line or just or the true full pressure can be taken direct at the end fuel filter.
What are the pressure readings that you have done.
What are your cold start pressure readings?



scrap_it

  • 87 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 06, 2010

SOURCE: Back autoride shocks are leaking, compressor kicks

they air shocks aint that expensive but you can also replace them with reg heavy duty shocks and unplug compresser

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My autoride suspension is not working

A ton of things could be wrong with your autoride system. If you have more than about 70k miles and haven't replaced the rear shocks ($500+ EACH!!! at the dealer), then they are probably leaking out. If they leak out, then the air compressor will always run. Eventually the air compressor/ride level sensor module (located on the driver side rear wheel on the inboard side of the frame, $300+ at the dealer) burns out because it's not designed to run at 100% duty cycles. After the air compressor burns out, the Electronic Stability Control module (in an XL, located inside the passenger side rear wheelwell trim, next to the third row seat, $300+ at the dealer) will probably short out. If your autoride isn't working and you don't get a "Service Stability" message, your ESC module is probably going bad.

It is possible to convert to regular shocks, but to keep the Stability Control (still has to control your brakes and front variable dampening shocks during "evasive" maneuvers), you have to insert some 1/4 watt resistors in to the ride height sensor connectors (can't remember what values, but I'm sure you can Google that) so that the Stability system doesn't throw a code. Not that it matters, but the message can get annoying if it's always there to nag...

My dealer quoted over $2500 to replace the entire system. I figure I can find the control modules from my local junkyard for $300, and the shocks from ebay for $350 for the pair. Be sure to match all of the GM part numbers, and keep an eye out for an upgraded Air Compressor module - GM released an update that is heavier duty and more water-resistant than the first design. I don't remember the part number, but my dealer included the upgrade with my quote.

Oh, and the only "easy" way to test the modules is with a Tech 2 tool. Otherwise it's lots of testing with a 12-volt source and a couple of multimeters and oscilliscopes...

Good luck!
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