Regards,
Tony
Did you go have the codes cleared with a scanner? You have to do this after that. The computer has to be reset. The two codes were clear about the problems. Clear the codes and see if another pops up. If P0135 pops up then change the 02sensor as indicated.
Tony
As far as resetting the codes - no. An OBDII will clear your codes just as well. As for reading the codes - yes. an OBDII gives generic codes known for all car manufacturers. And this is a great determiner in most cases. But a dealer can take his/her $10,000 scanner and see exactly what is happening to a fault.
I myself am surprised replacing the MAF was not the fix because what is going, along with the codes is exactly what a bad MAF sensor will do. And it can throw other false codes like the ones you have. There is always a chance you got a bad part and I never use anything but OEM MAF sensors because of the fault ratio with aftermarket MAF sensors. I assume you checked the connector real well too? At this point, before you spend another dime on parts I would suggest to go to the dealership and have them do a full diagnostic as there is something going on them OBDII codes just are not telling.
Regards,
Tony
Well, the codes are disappearing so that is a good sign. If you reference the diagram I put up below. It shows the front of the engine as you look under the hood. Where cylinder 1 is located you want to follow that exhaust manifold down the exhaust. The first Oxygen sensor you see is what needs to be replaced. Pull the connector and twist the old on out, just like a spark plug and twist a new one in.
Regards,
Tony
Having just put a new engine on make sure you check that manifold real well for a crack you might have missed. The code is bank 1 sensor 1 which is the primary 02 sensor. They don't function until 600 degrees or so. When they don't heat up they don't function and your car can surge from running far to lean. Thank you for the accept, it was a pleasure to help. Have a great weekend and thank you for using FixYa. Regards,
Tony
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Its indicating towards issue with map sensor.Try disconnecting and cleaning map sensor terminals and then reconnect and see.If its still the same problem.Then map sensor needs to be replaced and checked.Your engine's Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor could be the culprit if you're still getting lousy gas mileage after a tune up.Check the vacuum hose attached to the sensor and make sure it is in good condition and free of obstructions. Make sure there are no loose wires and the sensor's electrical connector is in good shape.-------- To test:--Unplug the electrical connector from the MAP sensor and turn the ignition key on, but do not start the engine. With a voltmeter, measure the reference voltage by touching the reference wire with the meter's positive lead and the negative lead to ground-black wire, which is at the connector's end coming from the computer. If the reference voltage--about 5 volts--is out of specification, you have found the source of the problem.
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If map sensor is not working properly,it throws off the whole loop cycle for the computer,,which in turn makes it run badly,,and get poor fuel economy,,it causes one to have a lack of power,,combined with a loss of fuel economy,,and also poor take offs,,and sometimes an occasional stalling.------
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This will help,to test and confirm the fault, to replace map sensor.-------
Thanks.Helpmech.
Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction
Bank 1 Sensor Pending DTC (S) Detected During Current .---------
you need an upstream O2 sensor. Hondas are prone to heater failure in their O2 sensors. They(O2 sensors) do not work until they reach 600 degrees so car manufacturers put heaters in them to warm them quickly.
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This code refers to the front oxygen sensor on Bank 1. The heated circuit in the oxygen sensor decreases time needed to enter closed loop. As the O2 heater reaches operating temperature, the oxygen sensor responds by switching according to oxygen content of the exhaust surrounding it. The ECM tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin switching. It the ECM determines (based on coolant temp) that too much time elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set P0135.
A code P0135 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
* O2 Heater element resistance is high
* Internal short or open in the heater element
* O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance
* open or short to ground in the wiring harness
Possible Solutions
* Repair short or open or high resistance in wiring harness or harness connectors
* Replace oxygen sensor (cannot repair open or short that occurs internally to sensor).-------------
This will help.thanks, for keeping updated.Helpmech.
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This would be correct as with the vacumn line off from the regulator then teh valve would close to build pressure up to start the engine ,what you have here is a problem with the mass air flow metering valve in the air intake ,either its faulty or you have two such sensors iam not sure as these cars i only ever see with a manual diesel engine or a small petrol engine of around 1.6 .Check the mass air flow sensor with a automotive multimeter to see what the readings are on idle and as the RPM is brought up and measure the voltages to determine what is wrong.I cannot use a code reader as our europen vehicles do not use a obdii till 2005
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voltage varies from 1 volt @ 700 rpm to 1.5 volts @ 3000 rpm don't believe it is the map sensor. also replace the entire throttle body with another including all difference sensors except one of the two map sensors.
checked voltage and is 5 volts. bought new map sensor installed, nothing changed. code reader reads PO108, PO335, PO112, PO113, PO135. 3000 still max rpm and still cycles between 2800 and 3000 rpm every second.
pulled fuse 13 for 20 seconds to clear on board codes, now am only showing code PO135 AND PO335. When I put in used engine, I had to use old dist off my old engine and brought piston #4 up to tdc and stabbed dist with rotor at spark plug wire #4. Issue still hasn't changed. Max rpms on engine are 3000 and it cycles between 2800 and 3000 rpms about every second with gas petal held down half way or all the way.
spent half the day changing out the crank position sensor and that made not difference either.
I replaced the crank position sensor, pulled fuse 13 out for 20 seconds, replaced fuse 13, my scanner said no codes stored. started car, hooked up code reader and got po135 and po335. Engine is still cycling from 2800 to 3000 and back again. I have not been to the dealer with this problem. Is there something he can do as far as the computer is concerned to solve this problem that I can't do?
still have the po135 code, where is the 02 sensor heater located?
yes, very exact and through. Thanks.
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